Stripped Lug nut!!
#1
Stripped Lug nut!!
So I was installing some new wheels and tires I bought. I didn't realize I needed a special thiner type of lug nut so I tried to use the stock lugs.
Well one of them got stripped and I cant get it off. There isn't enough room to fit a socket around it fully.
Any ideas? I tried to get those sockets with teeth but couldnt find one big enough. I tried to hammer a smaller socket on but since you cant fit a socket around it fully it didnt get any grip.
Is it feasible to remove the studs from behind? With the wheel still on?
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Well one of them got stripped and I cant get it off. There isn't enough room to fit a socket around it fully.
Any ideas? I tried to get those sockets with teeth but couldnt find one big enough. I tried to hammer a smaller socket on but since you cant fit a socket around it fully it didnt get any grip.
Is it feasible to remove the studs from behind? With the wheel still on?
[IMG][/IMG]
#2
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I don't know if its the same so I don't know if my idea will help.
But I had an older car that had those aluminum looking caps over the actual nut. You might look at a nut you have off and look close to see if it is a cap over a nut.
Because once I realized that on mine, I used a chisel to split the cap best I could, then used some gnarly pliers, and some more chisel, and some more pliers, and finally peeled the cap off.
Then I could see the real nut and got it loose.
Good luck!
But I had an older car that had those aluminum looking caps over the actual nut. You might look at a nut you have off and look close to see if it is a cap over a nut.
Because once I realized that on mine, I used a chisel to split the cap best I could, then used some gnarly pliers, and some more chisel, and some more pliers, and finally peeled the cap off.
Then I could see the real nut and got it loose.
Good luck!
#3
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In the past on frozen or rusted nuts I have used a center punch with success. Place the point on the left side of the hex - not too close to the edge (because you don't want it to punch through the corner of the hex) - but close enough so you are pushing the nut in the direction of loosening (to the left), and hammer steadily.
While using my forefinger and thumb to hold the punch, I use my pinky to hold the point in place near the edge as I tap it. Once a good punch point is made you can keep tapping and usually the nut will start to turn.
Sometimes I have to use the punch on the next hex (or two) because the nut moved but I still can't remove it by hand or by tool. But just keep tapping if its moving and you'll finally get to the point a wrench, socket or pliers will finish the job.
While using my forefinger and thumb to hold the punch, I use my pinky to hold the point in place near the edge as I tap it. Once a good punch point is made you can keep tapping and usually the nut will start to turn.
Sometimes I have to use the punch on the next hex (or two) because the nut moved but I still can't remove it by hand or by tool. But just keep tapping if its moving and you'll finally get to the point a wrench, socket or pliers will finish the job.
Last edited by cdynaco; 1/29/11 at 12:39 PM.
#5
Legacy TMS Member
Nope to trying to remove the stud from behind, the least damaging method that I can think of would be to drill the lug and stud out. Get a really hard bit that is just slightly bigger than the stud OD and drill in through the nose of the lug until its hollowed out and either slips or breaks off easily.
If that is to time consuming then your other option is to use a gas axe and burn the lug out but it will ruin the wheel in the process.
If that is to time consuming then your other option is to use a gas axe and burn the lug out but it will ruin the wheel in the process.
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