Strange engine noise
#21
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My understanding of the system is the passenger's side blows into the engine from the intake and the driver's side sucks into the intake. It's so the oil isn't blown into the engine compartment for emissions.
Either way lubing the valves, valve seats with oil is complete BS. That's what hardened seats and valves are for. And fouling the plugs..ha ha.
If it is a cam phaser, there is no way that it needs oil from the intake.
Changing out the separator for the stock hose is a 15 second job. I might just take all of the stuff out befor I take it in.
Either way lubing the valves, valve seats with oil is complete BS. That's what hardened seats and valves are for. And fouling the plugs..ha ha.
If it is a cam phaser, there is no way that it needs oil from the intake.
Changing out the separator for the stock hose is a 15 second job. I might just take all of the stuff out befor I take it in.
#22
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If that were the case it would have to get by the valve seals if it is going from inside the valve cover to lube the valves. Then it wouldn't need any tubes.
#23
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John , I'm not saying that the separator is a problem ... I've had the Moroso can on my engine for sometime now and I know it stops a lot of oil from getting into the intake. In light of the fact that someone had mentioned oil problems , I was just giving you a heads up that ford will sometimes give you warranty problems over something that doesn't make a lot of sense ...
#24
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John , I'm not saying that the separator is a problem ... I've had the Moroso can on my engine for sometime now and I know it stops a lot of oil from getting into the intake. In light of the fact that someone had mentioned oil problems , I was just giving you a heads up that ford will sometimes give you warranty problems over something that doesn't make a lot of sense ...
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Let them say what they want but we all know the truth.
#25
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Guess what, I took it in today and it did not make a squeek. Nothing. Not a rattle, pop or anything.
The tech commented on how smooth the engine runs.
I'm going to find these gremlins and make them die a grotesque and public death!!
The tech commented on how smooth the engine runs.
I'm going to find these gremlins and make them die a grotesque and public death!!
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#26
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Its just like when you go to the Dr when you are sick. All of a sudden you dont have a fever and your cough seems to have disappeared. When my motor went south on me, i had the same thing happen. So i drove it around the dealership parking lot until it finally acted up. Took almost 45 minutes.
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My early production '05 is doing it, and according to the Ford IDS system, the VCT's are the culprit. I've got these high dollar cam gears bought, but I got to try to save up the benjamins for the install.
#29
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It sounds like u might have a collapsed rocker arm. The same thing happened to me with my 07 they had to replace a rocker arm and ended up having to replace my passenger side cam.
#31
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It is quiet at start up and is fine until it warms up and the R's get above 2k, then you hear it at idle, at least as far as I can tell now.
It runs good but is noisy.
It sounds like it's coming from the valve cover around #5. I did the screwdriver in the ear trick.
It runs good but is noisy.
It sounds like it's coming from the valve cover around #5. I did the screwdriver in the ear trick.
#32
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It's doing it again. It was fine fore a while but now after it warms up the noise comes back. Still no codes though.
I guess I'll take it in again.
I guess I'll take it in again.
#33
#34
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Pop the cam cover before it's too late and do a visual of the cam lobes and rocker arms. Here's what a failed roller in one of the arms did to me:
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/4.jpg)
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/mustang005.jpg)
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/3.jpg)
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/2.jpg)
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/1.jpg)
It didn't drop a valve, but I did have to replace the entire head/cam assembly.
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/4.jpg)
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/mustang005.jpg)
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/3.jpg)
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/2.jpg)
![](http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/NitroMustang/Broke%20car/1.jpg)
It didn't drop a valve, but I did have to replace the entire head/cam assembly.
Last edited by MTAS; 6/16/11 at 08:40 AM.
#35
MTAS
How many miles on your car when this happened?
What weight & brand of oil are you using?
The lash adjusters are the culprit. Once you lose adjustment the rocker wipes out the cam.
If this happens again where the head is damaged, bring it to a GOOD welder & the head could be saved.
How many miles on your car when this happened?
What weight & brand of oil are you using?
The lash adjusters are the culprit. Once you lose adjustment the rocker wipes out the cam.
If this happens again where the head is damaged, bring it to a GOOD welder & the head could be saved.
#36
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MTAS
How many miles on your car when this happened?
What weight & brand of oil are you using?
The lash adjusters are the culprit. Once you lose adjustment the rocker wipes out the cam.
If this happens again where the head is damaged, bring it to a GOOD welder & the head could be saved.
How many miles on your car when this happened?
What weight & brand of oil are you using?
The lash adjusters are the culprit. Once you lose adjustment the rocker wipes out the cam.
If this happens again where the head is damaged, bring it to a GOOD welder & the head could be saved.
From day 1 it was either Castrol Syntec or Motorcraft Semi-Syn, both 5w-20 and always with a Motorcraft FL820S filter.
The head was sent to a shop that does repair them (Clearwater Cylinder Head here in FL) and they sent me a new/reconditioned head in exchange. I got the new head for right around $300 and it came complete with everything except the cam phasers (both of which were replaced with the latest revision since the thing was apart any way). It's since seen many redline runs with no problems
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#37
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Took it in today and, of course, it didn't happen until I got home.
But a knowledgable tech looked at it and said it could be the breather tube. He said at certain rpm ranges it could cause harmonics. The length varies slightly from part to part which causes it. That combined with the baffle in the valve cover could be the issue. He said that tearing apart the engine would not be a good idea since it seems to run well and does not happen all of the time.
He also said it is not a rocker or a cam phaser since those don't stay silent when they go bad.
We'll see.
But a knowledgable tech looked at it and said it could be the breather tube. He said at certain rpm ranges it could cause harmonics. The length varies slightly from part to part which causes it. That combined with the baffle in the valve cover could be the issue. He said that tearing apart the engine would not be a good idea since it seems to run well and does not happen all of the time.
He also said it is not a rocker or a cam phaser since those don't stay silent when they go bad.
We'll see.
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