rust underneith...
#1
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Looked under my car...maybe should have done that earlier, but...
Are those particular parts really suppose to be that rusty, as you can see in the pictures?
Can you guys see if you have the same look under your GTs (not sure if it is related to any specific version of the new Mustangs)?
Thanks!
[attachmentid=47962]
[attachmentid=47963]
Are those particular parts really suppose to be that rusty, as you can see in the pictures?
Can you guys see if you have the same look under your GTs (not sure if it is related to any specific version of the new Mustangs)?
Thanks!
[attachmentid=47962]
[attachmentid=47963]
#6
You might want to take a wire brush to it, its just surface rust , not anything to worry about to much, but it doesnt look appealing. after cleaning it take some POR15 or something and brush the exposed parts which will prevent this from happening. do you drive it in the snow, or Rain? this can make a big difference. Id say thats quick for a 2006, but if it aint coated it will rust.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ProjectS197 @ April 28, 2006, 5:39 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
You might want to take a wire brush to it, its just surface rust , not anything to worry about to much, but it doesnt look appealing. after cleaning it take some POR15 or something and brush the exposed parts which will prevent this from happening. do you drive it in the snow, or Rain? this can make a big difference. Id say thats quick for a 2006, but if it aint coated it will rust.
[/b][/quote]
POR15 is what I have used in the past.It seals rust like you wouldn't believe(just don't get it on your hands). For my new Mustang, I am trying to never drive except on sunny days. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]
You might want to take a wire brush to it, its just surface rust , not anything to worry about to much, but it doesnt look appealing. after cleaning it take some POR15 or something and brush the exposed parts which will prevent this from happening. do you drive it in the snow, or Rain? this can make a big difference. Id say thats quick for a 2006, but if it aint coated it will rust.
[/b][/quote]
POR15 is what I have used in the past.It seals rust like you wouldn't believe(just don't get it on your hands). For my new Mustang, I am trying to never drive except on sunny days. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]
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I try the sunny days too, but you know.........rain happens. but never in the winter and snow.
it says for the POR15 that you shall apply it directly to a rusted surface. Shouldnt all the rust be removed before...?
it says for the POR15 that you shall apply it directly to a rusted surface. Shouldnt all the rust be removed before...?
#10
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(lattjolarsson @ April 29, 2006, 6:15 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I try the sunny days too, but you know.........rain happens. but never in the winter and snow.
it says for the POR15 that you shall apply it directly to a rusted surface. Shouldnt all the rust be removed before...?
[/b][/quote]
be sure to read the recommendations- from memory- first brush away any loose stuff, then use metalprep(their brand is 'marineclean') , ospho liquid or naval jelly do the same- to convert the rust into iron phosphate. rinse with lots of water, then lots more- when yours sure its all gone rinse again...let it dry thoroughly(heatgun can help in nooks/crannies), then brush on the POR15- like mentioned above, dont get it on you- it takes a week to wear off or more, apparently no solvent on earth will get it off your skin...
this stuff is the messiest paint on earth too. get cheepest brushes you can find, replace often- eventually it will seep thru ferrule on brush and get on hands if painting 'up', I wrap tape around ferrule, change brush every 5 minutes or so...harbor frieght has cheep 1" china bristle brushes like 3 dozen for 10 bucks...
dont make mistake I did and use POR over any paint- it WILL NOT STICK to paint. Nothing better though on treated steel- especially if a little rusty before treating- you cant chiesel the stuff off.
Suggest using roll-on bedliner if you want to get a good durable undercoat to painted surfaces...just scuff lightly with a little scotchbrite, it holds tight.
theres a thread in issues called 'you might want to look under your car' of mine...I tore it apart with 300 miles on it to look for places water/dirt might get in- please note the pics of the flap in front of rear tires- I sealed mine, take a look and use your own judgement- but in my little mind that is 'planned obsolescence' point designed into the mustang- it lets dirt into a razor thin gap so it cant get out. Mark VII, explorers, areostars had similar 'features' in their rocker designs, every one Ive seen with holey rockers had good paint up to the hole- rotted inside out. my mark VII had a blister on one rear corner- entire friggin rocker was full of dirt/rotted away, had to hack the whole thing off...other side looked ok, drilled a test hole- sure enough, just pushed right thru- got pics of the crud in it- without drain, any tiny inlet pics up water/dirt, it just builds up...
I try the sunny days too, but you know.........rain happens. but never in the winter and snow.
it says for the POR15 that you shall apply it directly to a rusted surface. Shouldnt all the rust be removed before...?
[/b][/quote]
be sure to read the recommendations- from memory- first brush away any loose stuff, then use metalprep(their brand is 'marineclean') , ospho liquid or naval jelly do the same- to convert the rust into iron phosphate. rinse with lots of water, then lots more- when yours sure its all gone rinse again...let it dry thoroughly(heatgun can help in nooks/crannies), then brush on the POR15- like mentioned above, dont get it on you- it takes a week to wear off or more, apparently no solvent on earth will get it off your skin...
this stuff is the messiest paint on earth too. get cheepest brushes you can find, replace often- eventually it will seep thru ferrule on brush and get on hands if painting 'up', I wrap tape around ferrule, change brush every 5 minutes or so...harbor frieght has cheep 1" china bristle brushes like 3 dozen for 10 bucks...
dont make mistake I did and use POR over any paint- it WILL NOT STICK to paint. Nothing better though on treated steel- especially if a little rusty before treating- you cant chiesel the stuff off.
Suggest using roll-on bedliner if you want to get a good durable undercoat to painted surfaces...just scuff lightly with a little scotchbrite, it holds tight.
theres a thread in issues called 'you might want to look under your car' of mine...I tore it apart with 300 miles on it to look for places water/dirt might get in- please note the pics of the flap in front of rear tires- I sealed mine, take a look and use your own judgement- but in my little mind that is 'planned obsolescence' point designed into the mustang- it lets dirt into a razor thin gap so it cant get out. Mark VII, explorers, areostars had similar 'features' in their rocker designs, every one Ive seen with holey rockers had good paint up to the hole- rotted inside out. my mark VII had a blister on one rear corner- entire friggin rocker was full of dirt/rotted away, had to hack the whole thing off...other side looked ok, drilled a test hole- sure enough, just pushed right thru- got pics of the crud in it- without drain, any tiny inlet pics up water/dirt, it just builds up...
#11
I am still suprised that they didnt paint thoes parts. I know as soon as I get mine its going on the lift and being painted. do you see anywhere else that has bare metal like that? I guess its better that the parts are unpainted than the chassis, b\c the parts you can always replace. The chassis on the other hand is not as easy.
#12
That’s ugly but functionally it won’t hurt anything it just looks really bad. Rust is maybe OK on a truck but not a sports car.
Assuming you buy new one of the first things you need to do is inspect under chassis for bare metal. If you catch it early enough before rusting starts, clean the metal with Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid), which will remove any oils and surface rust from the part. Rinse thoroughly with water and let it dry overnight; fans will speed drying. Next mask any areas you don’t want painted and spray (preferred over brush marks) a flat or stain Rustolum paint.
Here’s what it should look like if you catch it soon enough, it also helps not to drive it in the rain and especially SNOW/ SALT! Thank the cost reductions at Ford to save a couple of bucks on painting.
Assuming you buy new one of the first things you need to do is inspect under chassis for bare metal. If you catch it early enough before rusting starts, clean the metal with Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid), which will remove any oils and surface rust from the part. Rinse thoroughly with water and let it dry overnight; fans will speed drying. Next mask any areas you don’t want painted and spray (preferred over brush marks) a flat or stain Rustolum paint.
Here’s what it should look like if you catch it soon enough, it also helps not to drive it in the rain and especially SNOW/ SALT! Thank the cost reductions at Ford to save a couple of bucks on painting.
#13
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Silver Bullit @ April 30, 2006, 1:23 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
That’s ugly but functionally it won’t hurt anything it just looks really bad. Rust is maybe OK on a truck but not a sports car.
Assuming you buy new one of the first things you need to do is inspect under chassis for bare metal. If you catch it early enough before rusting starts, clean the metal with Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid), which will remove any oils and surface rust from the part. Rinse thoroughly with water and let it dry overnight; fans will speed drying. Next mask any areas you don’t want painted and spray (preferred over brush marks) a flat or stain Rustolum paint.
Here’s what it should look like if you catch it soon enough, it also helps not to drive it in the rain and especially SNOW/ SALT! Thank the cost reductions at Ford to save a couple of bucks on painting.
[/b][/quote]
Are thoes the only parts you found , that where not painted?
That’s ugly but functionally it won’t hurt anything it just looks really bad. Rust is maybe OK on a truck but not a sports car.
Assuming you buy new one of the first things you need to do is inspect under chassis for bare metal. If you catch it early enough before rusting starts, clean the metal with Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid), which will remove any oils and surface rust from the part. Rinse thoroughly with water and let it dry overnight; fans will speed drying. Next mask any areas you don’t want painted and spray (preferred over brush marks) a flat or stain Rustolum paint.
Here’s what it should look like if you catch it soon enough, it also helps not to drive it in the rain and especially SNOW/ SALT! Thank the cost reductions at Ford to save a couple of bucks on painting.
[/b][/quote]
Are thoes the only parts you found , that where not painted?
#14
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I'm glad i don't have to worry about that! The dealer i bought my 05 from in Michigan undercoats every car before they sell it! Cost an extra $450 though
#15
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(05 GT Stang @ May 2, 2006, 11:51 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I'm glad i don't have to worry about that! The dealer i bought my 05 from in Michigan undercoats every car before they sell it! Cost an extra $450 though
[/b][/quote]
Yea, that goes to the dealer add-ons that they tack you for in the F & I room when its time to pay for the car.
In Atlanta, for example, the dealer 'assumes' the sale of tire & wheel package (roads and curbs down here in ATL can be a challenge -- I've picked up a few flat tires so it has come in handy) and glass etching.
Down here in the south Rust Undercoating won't fly as we don't have the rust problems the northern states do. As such, dealers don't 'assume' the sale.
I'm glad i don't have to worry about that! The dealer i bought my 05 from in Michigan undercoats every car before they sell it! Cost an extra $450 though
[/b][/quote]
Yea, that goes to the dealer add-ons that they tack you for in the F & I room when its time to pay for the car.
In Atlanta, for example, the dealer 'assumes' the sale of tire & wheel package (roads and curbs down here in ATL can be a challenge -- I've picked up a few flat tires so it has come in handy) and glass etching.
Down here in the south Rust Undercoating won't fly as we don't have the rust problems the northern states do. As such, dealers don't 'assume' the sale.
#16
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(05 GT Stang @ May 2, 2006, 9:51 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I'm glad i don't have to worry about that! The dealer i bought my 05 from in Michigan undercoats every car before they sell it! Cost an extra $450 though
[/b][/quote]
Did they actually paint the driveshaft and rearend?
also just curious- do you have a little hole at the top of the flap in front of your rear tires? I filled mine with seamsealer and undercoated it, but about 1/2 the mustangs at the cleveland auto show were open on at least one side. that little hole worries me as it goes right into a razorthin gap in the bottom of the rocker.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?ac...e=post&id=43004
I'm glad i don't have to worry about that! The dealer i bought my 05 from in Michigan undercoats every car before they sell it! Cost an extra $450 though
[/b][/quote]
Did they actually paint the driveshaft and rearend?
also just curious- do you have a little hole at the top of the flap in front of your rear tires? I filled mine with seamsealer and undercoated it, but about 1/2 the mustangs at the cleveland auto show were open on at least one side. that little hole worries me as it goes right into a razorthin gap in the bottom of the rocker.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?ac...e=post&id=43004
#17
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(05 GT Stang @ May 2, 2006, 10:51 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I'm glad i don't have to worry about that! The dealer i bought my 05 from in Michigan undercoats every car before they sell it! Cost an extra $450 though
[/b][/quote]
$450 sounds like a nice profit for the dealer.
However when they spray undercoat the goes everywhere and you need to be careful they don’t block any drain holes. Undercoat is OK for a truck but I wouldn’t want the thick goop covering all the suspension components and everything else under the Mustang.
There are also some front suspension components that may also need to be touched up.
I'm glad i don't have to worry about that! The dealer i bought my 05 from in Michigan undercoats every car before they sell it! Cost an extra $450 though
[/b][/quote]
$450 sounds like a nice profit for the dealer.
However when they spray undercoat the goes everywhere and you need to be careful they don’t block any drain holes. Undercoat is OK for a truck but I wouldn’t want the thick goop covering all the suspension components and everything else under the Mustang.
There are also some front suspension components that may also need to be touched up.
#18
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(lattjolarsson @ April 28, 2006, 2:08 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Looked under my car...maybe should have done that earlier, but...
Are those particular parts really suppose to be that rusty, as you can see in the pictures?
Can you guys see if you have the same look under your GTs (not sure if it is related to any specific version of the new Mustangs)?
Thanks!
[attachmentid=47962]
[attachmentid=47963]
[/b][/quote]
I've seen some arrive at the dealer already like this ....
Looked under my car...maybe should have done that earlier, but...
Are those particular parts really suppose to be that rusty, as you can see in the pictures?
Can you guys see if you have the same look under your GTs (not sure if it is related to any specific version of the new Mustangs)?
Thanks!
[attachmentid=47962]
[attachmentid=47963]
[/b][/quote]
I've seen some arrive at the dealer already like this ....
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