Hi all,
Working on a full around brake job. Finished the fronts just fine and moved onto the rears.

This is my first vehicle with rear discs, so I didn't know about the special tool (which I don't have).
And since the Mustang is currently my only vehicle, I can't go get the tool since the brakes are taken apart.

That said, I've read numerous sources (including my Chilton's manual) that say you can just spin them with a pair of needle nose pliers.

That's not going to happen...
They're very hard to turn. I have to grab them around the outside (carefully as to not tear the boot) with a pair of channel locks to get enough grip to get them to spin. Both sides are the same, and are very difficult to turn. I'm turning them clockwise, as directed.
Then, they don't go in, they just spin and spin and spin.

I've read where they can come unscrewed/unseated, but it's usually when the brakes are very worn out, which these are not. I'm just upgrading to slotted rotors, and the old rotors and pads have plenty of meat left on them.

Any thoughts? Why are they so hard to turn? And why won't they screw in?
Thanks for any help.

 

Buy a rear brake tool kit from Amazon for around $25. I did and it makes doing rear brakes so much better.

Mine were hard to turn even with the special socket that came with the rear brake kit . I also had to push in as hard as I could while screwing it in at the same time

 

yep, that tool will pay for itself the first time you use it

I did manage to do it with plyers the first time, but it wasn't exactly a success, since I ripped one of the boots in the process and had to buy a new caliper . . . which cost more than the tool

also be aware, you need to position the little notches correctly so that the buttons on the back of the pad will fit in the notches, otherwise the pad will not sit correctly and the brakes will drag and get ridiculously hot (ask me how I know, LOL)

another tip to make it easier, is to open the bleed nipple while you are screwing in the piston . . . this also lets any crud that might be in there flow out, instead of pushing it back up into the system . . . use a tube on the bleeder, just like you were bleeding the brakes, to catch the fluid in a jar or whatever

 

Yeah, I looked at the tool on Amazon, but it leaves me stranded at home until Saturday due to shipping, so was hoping there was a quicker option. Otherwise, I suppose I could take an Uber to the parts store to rent one.
Thanks all.

And Bert, I saw about the notches because I was reading on the rear calipers and saw your post about them being crooked. I didn't even think about that, so I'm glad I did! I'll be sure to have them straight.

 

you might be able to borrow one from local parts store for "free" -- my local Advance Auto makes you "buy" the tool and then they refund your money when you bring it back

 

Yeah, that's the plan. I still have to get there though. lol
If there's no quick trick without the tool, I'll figure out a way to get down there.

Thanks again.

 

Can you put the old pads back in the rears for a quick trip to the store? I know it's more work, but it beats walking.

 

Alright. So, I had my brother rent the tool and drive it over to me.
I had both brakes compressed in about 5 minutes, and the brakes fully reassembled and ready to go in another 10.
So the tool made it quick and easy.

Thanks all.