Xenasilver06

Hey i have an 2006 v6 base manual. Fuse 47 keeps popping to my best knowledge it controls 12 different functions. Car still runs fine just drives me insane. Car is stock except radio an metal thermostat housing an battery. Ive replaced evap purge no luck. Tryed pulling 02 sensors maf evap lines an egr fuse still pops with key on. Dtc 135 141 155 161 oxygen heater bang sensors. P403 443 446 egr. Finally 645 ac clutch relay control circuit. An p1000 drive cycle. Is it pinched wiring near transmission? Failed ac componet?

Glenn

has it rained lately? Check behind your passengers side kick panel for moisture

Lime GT

Check for burnt/melted O2 sensor wiring under car. Also check brake light switch for possible short. I'm going off an 05 wiring diagram so I may be wrong.

Xenasilver06

I will check for sure when the weather is somewhat decent. Car runs fine except bouncing idle when cold. Ive pulled each each o2 an fuse pops with just the key on position. My ac is not cold at all an mechanic said the freion would not push thru an in the wiring diagram it looks to be connected to diode 49 1amp an ac fuse relay along with a million other functions. Theres a million tsbs on my year including leaking shaft seal on fs10 compressor. My car also had the thermostat housing failure which i replaced with a metal an the knock sensor near there looks to be coated in dirt but iam nervous of taking the plastic plenum off. I also see their looks to be a ground wire connected on back of engine block coming from the coil pack where coolant my have corroded. So far ive pulled all 4 o2sensors egr purge canister an the one next to charcoal canister my maf brake fluid sensor an fuse pops with key in on.

Xenasilver06

Noob question is it best to disconnect battery negative before pulling kickpanel an sjb harness? I need to go CSI my harness an look for corrision for peace of mine before buying 1amp diodes an relays. I adressed the leaking rubber drain just not leaking plastic sealer cowl clips an door weatherstrippings.

houtex

Yes, it is best. There's a chance that by pulling the sjb, and it's got a shorting issue, it could damage other things. They all should be fused, of course, but why chance it?

Xenasilver06

Also most of sjb harness do i need to yank most of the dash apart? Seems like car wasnt made for a 6ft guy to work on.

houtex

The right passenger kick panel (footwell area, under the glove box) is where the SJB lives. It can be removed and dealt with by only removing the sill panel then the kick panel.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=422&f=Smart%2...ox%20(SJB).pdf

http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=441&f=Interio...ded%20View.pdf for the trim pieces, left shown is pretty much similar to right, so sill plate (2) is pulled upwards, then you remove the kick panel retainer (3), and then the kick panel (4) pulls rearward.

These S197s are pretty easy to work with, honestly. I love their overall simplicity in many respects.

Mannygarcia_98

Did you ever figure out a solution? I have exactly the same trouble codes.