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*SOLVED*
Passenger window stopped working, checked the plug to the motor and getting power. I got a new motor, it didn't work. I returned and got a new one in case this one was defective and motor still wont work. I was able to track down a wiring diagram and this I get from the 8 pin plug going to the motor. Could the Auto Up/down be the culprit? Driver's side is completely fine.
Tan w/lt blue - 12v when down button
White w/yellow - 12v when up button
Red/lt blue - constant 12v
Violet w/Blue nothing (auto)
Brown w/lt blue - constant 8 volts
Gray w/Red - constant 12v
Yellow w/Green - constant 12v.
hmmmm . . . . maybe it needs to be programmed somehow? maybe the reset procedure, which involves running the window all the way up and down and holding the button or something like that . . . but if the window won't respond at all then obviously you cannot do that . . . . I dunno?
From your post:
Correct: Tan w/lt blue - 12v when down button Correct: White w/yellow - 12v when up button Correct: Red/lt blue - constant 12v, delay accessory (the 10 minute thing unless doors are opened after switch is off) Correct: Violet w/Blue nothing (auto) INCORRECT: Brown w/lt blue - constant 8 volts, This is the motor power itself. This should be 12V, it's coming from the BEC directly and is a 30 amp fuse. Correct: Gray w/Red - constant 12v, but I don't know what GOC is, but being it's lower power amp circuit, I'm going with memory for the up/down locations? Correct: Yellow w/Green - constant 12v, Door's open, lights are on, drop is on. Close the door, this goes off, the drop goes back up, if applicable.
I suspect your incoming motor power is compromised and you need to investigate that. And I'd suggest you go investigate the other door's motor's wiring and compare, perhaps that'll shed some light. But excepting that one, it sounds like all is otherwise in order power/signal wise...
Perhaps the regulator is binding? Just a thought...
Brown w/lt blue was actually like 8.5v.. I rechecked it, it's steady at 9.1v., very odd. .I rechecked the fuse, it's good. Even swapped it out with the driver's side. I checked the voltage at the fuse terminals, both sides at 12.2. I never installed the new motor, just plugged it in to verify if it was working. . i was thinking maybe the signal from the driver's side was stuck closed so I unplugged the driver's switch to check it that way. Still investigating. I will have to take apart the driver's side and see whats on that side.
Yes, pin # 8 is ground. My test results were using the ground from the plug. Before i take the Drivers door apart. I'm going to try putting 12 volts to the motor itself. Who knows, maybe they gave me the same motor back.
Update.
Finally got around to putting power to the motor. You cannot just put 12v to the Up/Down pins. It appears there is a relay inside the motor housing. You have to put 12v to the Brown w/Lt blue pin on the motor side. Then you can put 12v to the Up/Down pin. The 9V on the Brown w/lt blue from the plug was of course the issue. I got lucky and found the faulty wire. At the fuse box, there is a bundle of wires coming out. It was right at the exit point. I re-spliced it and all is working again. You can see the green oxidation around the exit point. For some reason this bundle was not wrapped all the way up like the others. Perhaps vibrations from the wire against the box cut into it.. Thanks for your help.
7/1/20, 02:02 AM
