Need to vent a little
#1
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So I had a little time on my hands and decided to make a few long overdue upgrades to the car. Since lowering it with the FRPP kit, I have suffered from the predictable negative camber. I've had some camber plates and extended length ball joints in the trunk for a few months and since I was going to be messing with the control arms, I picked up some energy suspension polyurethane bushings as well. Now was also a good time to get rid of that clunky two-piece driveshaft and replace it with a 3.5" one-piece aluminum one.
The driveshaft was easy enough. I went with the Shaft Masters as it was a true bolt in part.
I then moved on to the control arms. I only decided to do the bushings because I figured it would be easier to press out the stock ball joints with a hydraulic press rather than by hand. The stock bushing removal is a straight up PITA and I don't recommend it for anyone, regardless of mechanical ability. Took me and a buddy about three hours for the two. The new bushings looked pretty pimp IMHO.
I didn't really trust myself to do the ball joints seeing as I have never done it before so I dropped them off with an ASE certified tech for the hard part. While I was waiting for the ball joints, I tackled the camber plates which was pretty straight forward and easy enough.
I got the control arms back and began the reassembly. Once everything was put back together ready for torquing, I noticed that the driver side ball joint wasn't fully seated in the control arm. I thought this was odd but figured that the tech got lazy. I used the manual press and things seemed to go fine. Torqued everything back up, mounted the wheels and set her back on the ground. That is when I noticed the ball joint backing back out of the control arm again. Dang it.
I had read that the stock control arms were non-serviceable, but there are several manufacturers that make replacement ball joints. I figured it would be fine. I went back to the tech to SE if we could weld them in and he says no, it would weaken the control arm too much. FML. So while I am standing there pondering my next move, I overhear one of the other mechanics talking about how much trouble they had getting that ball joint in and how they put 15000 lbs of force on it to seat it. This just keeps getting better.
I just ordered the FRPP upgrade control arms (GT 500 variety) which is what I should have done in the first place. So much for trying to save a few bucks. I mostly angry that I wasted my buddy's time screwing around with those bushings that will never be used.
Oh and this thread would be worthless without pics, here is my new drive shaft minus safety loops. I'll get to that soon, they are still in the trunk of the car.
The driveshaft was easy enough. I went with the Shaft Masters as it was a true bolt in part.
I then moved on to the control arms. I only decided to do the bushings because I figured it would be easier to press out the stock ball joints with a hydraulic press rather than by hand. The stock bushing removal is a straight up PITA and I don't recommend it for anyone, regardless of mechanical ability. Took me and a buddy about three hours for the two. The new bushings looked pretty pimp IMHO.
I didn't really trust myself to do the ball joints seeing as I have never done it before so I dropped them off with an ASE certified tech for the hard part. While I was waiting for the ball joints, I tackled the camber plates which was pretty straight forward and easy enough.
I got the control arms back and began the reassembly. Once everything was put back together ready for torquing, I noticed that the driver side ball joint wasn't fully seated in the control arm. I thought this was odd but figured that the tech got lazy. I used the manual press and things seemed to go fine. Torqued everything back up, mounted the wheels and set her back on the ground. That is when I noticed the ball joint backing back out of the control arm again. Dang it.
I had read that the stock control arms were non-serviceable, but there are several manufacturers that make replacement ball joints. I figured it would be fine. I went back to the tech to SE if we could weld them in and he says no, it would weaken the control arm too much. FML. So while I am standing there pondering my next move, I overhear one of the other mechanics talking about how much trouble they had getting that ball joint in and how they put 15000 lbs of force on it to seat it. This just keeps getting better.
I just ordered the FRPP upgrade control arms (GT 500 variety) which is what I should have done in the first place. So much for trying to save a few bucks. I mostly angry that I wasted my buddy's time screwing around with those bushings that will never be used.
Oh and this thread would be worthless without pics, here is my new drive shaft minus safety loops. I'll get to that soon, they are still in the trunk of the car.
Last edited by n00dle76; 11/9/12 at 06:12 PM.
#8
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Thread Starter
I don't know if they really used that much force, I wasn't there. The tech behind the counter told me that they did when I went back to complain that the ball joint wouldn't stay in the control arm.
#9
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Join Date: December 9, 2011
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
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Originally Posted by n00dle76
The stock bushings are molded into the control arm and Energy Suspension does not include the new sleeves. You have the heat up the stock bushings with a torch until the rubber melts then push them out. Then you spend a lot of time with a wire wheel removing the old rubber from the sleeves and the control arm. After the first one, it got easier but it is still a PITA. Probably not really worth it in the long run.
I don't know if they really used that much force, I wasn't there. The tech behind the counter told me that they did when I went back to complain that the ball joint wouldn't stay in the control arm.
And thats alot of pressure, more than they would ever go through under almost any circumstance. How much did they charge for the job?
Sorry if you posted the price earlier, its 2am and searching isnt exactly on my priority list at the moment haha
#11
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Originally Posted by n00dle76
They ended up not charging me for the pressing in/out of the ball joints. I guess that was their way of making up for it.
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