Looking for Max MPG's
#62
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
You need this without a doubt. Don't ask any more questions and just do it!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R1-PE...item335cfcc344
:sti rpot:
I'm just yanking your chain!
The biggest thing you can do is drive 55-60mph. Remember the federal goverment imposed that speed to save fuel way back in 73 Emergency Highway Energy Conservation Act shown here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1973_oil_crisis
The first thing I did to my car was an intake and a tune. That did seem to give me about a mile to mile and a half improvement in my gas mileage. Also think of a tune telling your car to run more efficently. BTW, wasn't it Chris with Tillman that had a fuel saver tune.
The next change was going to a fully synthetic motor oil. In my case it was mobile 1 synthetic. that improved things about a mile per gallon.
After these upgrades, I could get about 24.5 mpg with mostly stop and go and a little bit of 75mph.
Keeping the car under 2k when shifting helps some. Driving with the aid of the fuel consumption meter helps. The biggest thing I do is coast to all stops. If I see traffic up ahead, neutral it goes for me. No sense in hurrying up to stop, right? I asked my tuner about the injectors turning off when you coast in gear and he said it does not. However, when the rpm's are dropping the injectors are indeed off.
I don't know if the gears would help unless you do a lot of hwy driving and you go to a 3.31 or less gear. 4.10 seem to only help in the city, and it significanly dropped my mpg by like 3. Now I have hotrod cams and I'm down to less then 18mpg
As far as front bumpers, I don't think they designed them to be more aerodynamic
Also, lightening the load of the car will help always. You are basically freeing up power. Also, I wonder if removing the cats would help, since the engine can breathe easier.
My final thought on the matter is this:
Reset your mpg gauge. Afterwards, drive a certain speed like 70mph for a long ways. At least till the mpg seem to level off. Way back when my car was stock, @75 mph, the best my car would attain is 28.2 mpg (3.55 gear). Now with all my mods, it's more like 22mpg.
Oh yeah, you can do under drive pullies intake, tune, and drive shaft for around $1500. Let's divide that by $3 a gallon and you would need 500 gallons for it topay for itself if you save a mile per gallon and on that special occasion, a bigger smile on your face!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R1-PE...item335cfcc344
:sti rpot:
I'm just yanking your chain!
The biggest thing you can do is drive 55-60mph. Remember the federal goverment imposed that speed to save fuel way back in 73 Emergency Highway Energy Conservation Act shown here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1973_oil_crisis
The first thing I did to my car was an intake and a tune. That did seem to give me about a mile to mile and a half improvement in my gas mileage. Also think of a tune telling your car to run more efficently. BTW, wasn't it Chris with Tillman that had a fuel saver tune.
The next change was going to a fully synthetic motor oil. In my case it was mobile 1 synthetic. that improved things about a mile per gallon.
After these upgrades, I could get about 24.5 mpg with mostly stop and go and a little bit of 75mph.
Keeping the car under 2k when shifting helps some. Driving with the aid of the fuel consumption meter helps. The biggest thing I do is coast to all stops. If I see traffic up ahead, neutral it goes for me. No sense in hurrying up to stop, right? I asked my tuner about the injectors turning off when you coast in gear and he said it does not. However, when the rpm's are dropping the injectors are indeed off.
I don't know if the gears would help unless you do a lot of hwy driving and you go to a 3.31 or less gear. 4.10 seem to only help in the city, and it significanly dropped my mpg by like 3. Now I have hotrod cams and I'm down to less then 18mpg
As far as front bumpers, I don't think they designed them to be more aerodynamic
Also, lightening the load of the car will help always. You are basically freeing up power. Also, I wonder if removing the cats would help, since the engine can breathe easier.
My final thought on the matter is this:
Reset your mpg gauge. Afterwards, drive a certain speed like 70mph for a long ways. At least till the mpg seem to level off. Way back when my car was stock, @75 mph, the best my car would attain is 28.2 mpg (3.55 gear). Now with all my mods, it's more like 22mpg.
Oh yeah, you can do under drive pullies intake, tune, and drive shaft for around $1500. Let's divide that by $3 a gallon and you would need 500 gallons for it topay for itself if you save a mile per gallon and on that special occasion, a bigger smile on your face!
already running syn oil, I don't think theres to much in my car I want to take out to lighten it up. spare tire is gone but thats about it.
500 gals is about a half a year for me so that return would be pretty quick imo. I'm sure with just the d/s and the udp's gains would be at least 3mpg's????
#64
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
never did like that multi quote thing so I thought I wouldwhore the thread up a bit.
So is there anyone around here that has installed a d/s or udp's that noticed what kind of mpg improvement they have made.
thanks for the input everyone
So is there anyone around here that has installed a d/s or udp's that noticed what kind of mpg improvement they have made.
thanks for the input everyone
Last edited by Glenn; 6/12/10 at 08:59 AM.
#65
Legacy TMS Member
I've been hypermiling my Cobalt SS turbocharged. Doing 60 on the highway, I get 30 MPG. I have to stay out of boost during normal driving and shifting. I'm going to experiment on the GT next.
#66
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But this thread isn't so about driving styles as much as it is about adding mods to improve mpg's.
#67
Legacy TMS Member
Fuel economy mods: Reduce the number of active cylinders, change rear axle ratio to 2.73 or numerically lower, change transmission gearing to keep cruising RPMs below 2k, change tires, etc...
#68
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I can granny drive my car in the city keeping the engine @1500rpm, it returns 14mpg. I keep the engine @ 1900-2500 it does around 17mpg. The highway is the same, try doing 50mph in 5th on the highway and then return back and do 50mph in 4th. The results will surprise you. 5th gear is for over 60mph with 3.55 @1900rpm it does 64mph, with 2.73's you would be @ 83mph. With that said what you would effectively do is load up the engine way too much to be thermally efficient vs friction & aerodynamic load to be considered efficient. So your next step would be to drop to 4th witch would be 55mph @1900rpm. Point being is that these engines do not make enough torque at low rpm to see any real gains in mpg by switching gears.
Hell I would love to do 4.33's with a 6speed with double OD, with a .50 final gear. That would be the sweet spot @ a hair over 70mph and enough gears down low to gain some real good acceleration. Providing all the gears in the 6 speed have a 10-15% higher gear than the 5 speed so the 1'st gear does not turn into a tree stump pulling gear.
#69
Legacy TMS Member
I kept the RPMs low on my Cobalt SS/TC (shifting at 1500 RPM) and got 27 MPG city. I kept it below 2000 RPM on the highway and got 33 MPG highway. Engines consume more fuel at higher RPMs. FYI this was an engine that had VCT/VVT for intake and exhaust cams (not just intake like the 3V 4.6).
#70
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I kept the RPMs low on my Cobalt SS/TC (shifting at 1500 RPM) and got 27 MPG city. I kept it below 2000 RPM on the highway and got 33 MPG highway. Engines consume more fuel at higher RPMs. FYI this was an engine that had VCT/VVT for intake and exhaust cams (not just intake like the 3V 4.6).
#71
The good old government shows the best sweet spot overall for driving to be around 50-55 mph according to this graph. http://fueleconomy.gov/feg/driveHabits.shtml
To me on this graph it looks like after 60 mph the mpgs slide off pretty quick. In general I have found this to be true also. When I can I drive 55-60 on trips in 55 mph zones. In 65 mph and up zones I try to drive 60 mph unless I feel like I'm blocking a lot of traffic. Then I will speed up to 65 but, that's as far as I go unless I have a trip that's 10+ hours. I will drive 70-75 mph then. That's the only time I do so.
To me on this graph it looks like after 60 mph the mpgs slide off pretty quick. In general I have found this to be true also. When I can I drive 55-60 on trips in 55 mph zones. In 65 mph and up zones I try to drive 60 mph unless I feel like I'm blocking a lot of traffic. Then I will speed up to 65 but, that's as far as I go unless I have a trip that's 10+ hours. I will drive 70-75 mph then. That's the only time I do so.
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