Home made brake duct kit finished. Step by step pictures
#1
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Home made brake duct kit finished. Step by step pictures
Okay, I have completed my brake duct kit and I am ready to put the pics up for those that may be interested in doing a similar job. Keep in mind, I have access to many different trades working in a shipyard that were able to help me out with the parts. I basically designed it, made drawings and cut outs.
I didn't want to spend the money on a kit and knew I could make my own. Total cost for this was about $90.
There is one more thing left to do and that is the stainless honeycomb mesh that will be installed in the inlet ports once it comes in at a local metal supplier in about 2 weeks.
First the original design. I made some cut outs with some construction paper using the original dust shields as templates and got a basic design.
I didn't want to spend the money on a kit and knew I could make my own. Total cost for this was about $90.
There is one more thing left to do and that is the stainless honeycomb mesh that will be installed in the inlet ports once it comes in at a local metal supplier in about 2 weeks.
First the original design. I made some cut outs with some construction paper using the original dust shields as templates and got a basic design.
Last edited by cop on my back; 4/23/10 at 05:07 PM.
#3
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For the inlets I bought some 3" sub box ports online. They were too big to fit in the opening of the lower grill, so I heated them up and squeezed them to an oval shape.
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Once I was happy with the ports, it was onto the lower grill. I found the center and just used a hole saw to make a round opening. Then I took a dremel tool and very carefully made the openings oval to match the ports that I had traced on the tape to use as a guide.
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Next was installing the 3" hose that I got at a local industrial supplier. I decided to paint the inlet ports with some chrome spray paint. I am happy with the look, I just hope the paint will stand up to the elements and washing. If they don't, it is easy to remove them from the grill because they are just a very tight press fit.
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I soon realized that the aluminum on the backing plate that held the hose mounting port was too thin and was pulled back and forth by the hose when you turned the wheels from lock to lock. I felt over time the aluminum would crack from stresses. I also needed thicker spacers to get that backing plate closer to the rotor. I also noticed that the young apprentice that made them had put the oval ports on a bit of an angle so that the cold air was not just on the center of the rotor, but on the inside face as well. Lastly, I had put some cut outs on the plate to clear the steering tie rod, but realized it was not nessasary because with the plate spaced out, there was ample clearance. The cut outs also added to the weakness
Time to design new ones. No cut outs, thicker aluminum that was of a stiffer alloy and the hose port was better positioned to aim the cold air right on the center of the rotor. I also had the round spacers tacked on for easier installation.
Time to design new ones. No cut outs, thicker aluminum that was of a stiffer alloy and the hose port was better positioned to aim the cold air right on the center of the rotor. I also had the round spacers tacked on for easier installation.
Last edited by cop on my back; 4/23/10 at 05:11 PM.
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Last was installing the hose and getting it on the inlet ports in the lower grill. They are not at a very good angle and it was not easy to bend the hose onto them, but once done it is perfectly functional.
No picture of the front yet, I have to get my chin spoiler back from the body shop. The clear coat was all cracked after a rabbit ran out in front of me weeks ago (the furry kind).
I have not had the car on the track with this set up yet so no idea how well it will work. I am sure that after hitting a hairpin after a long straightaway I will be happy they are there!
No picture of the front yet, I have to get my chin spoiler back from the body shop. The clear coat was all cracked after a rabbit ran out in front of me weeks ago (the furry kind).
I have not had the car on the track with this set up yet so no idea how well it will work. I am sure that after hitting a hairpin after a long straightaway I will be happy they are there!
Last edited by cop on my back; 4/23/10 at 11:38 PM.
#8
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I can only imagine how much money you could make on the side for these kits. I know it's not something you're really interested as per the other thread but they look great! Good work!
#9
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Here is an example of a project I made years ago on manual machines, no CNC. The block is 3.5 inches long. The engine is a 0.98 cubic inch V-8
#11
As an experienced mechanical engineer, allow me to say this:
That is a cool hobby!
That is a cool hobby!
#18
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One more for the Hawks! lol.
Great job! I have the PJ Heritage front fascia and it already has the inlet ports, I have been deciding on putting fogs down there, or the brake ducts. I dont road race it enough for making it worth it. But sure nice to have!
Great job! I have the PJ Heritage front fascia and it already has the inlet ports, I have been deciding on putting fogs down there, or the brake ducts. I dont road race it enough for making it worth it. But sure nice to have!
#19
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My plan is to just remove the dust shields completely. Ford didn't equip their trucks with brake dust shields and my 09 Cobalt SS/TC doesn't have shields either. My 07 GT's dust shields are hugging the calipers, no wonder they tend to overheat.
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