where is everyone buying your anti seize? I have checked a few stores and all I see is "anti-seize", not "nickel anti- seize". I was hoping to find it locally and not have to order it online.

 

I used Permatex Nickel Anti Sieze; Permatex brand stuff should be available at any auto parts store.

 

I couldn't find the nickel locally and had to order it ...

 

I have checked Auto zone, Advanced Auto Parts, NAPA and a few others, none of them have the nickel.

 

http://www.amazon.com/LOCTITE-Nickel...0756374&sr=8-1

 

Got mine from Amazon too.

 

call me silly...I seriously thought amazon only sold books for some reason- thanks!

 

what is the difference between nickel and non nickel anti seize? I assume the temp rage is greater on the nickel? Is it ok to use just regular anti seize and the nickel is just added piece of mind?

 

Yes on temp. range. I wouldn't use anything else.

 

I'm coming up on 50,000 miles on my 2005 GT and am getting mighty nervous about these plugs. Time to change them out. This is the first car I've owned that I've done a lot of work myself on, but not yet having changed the spark plugs, I'm a little nervous without some visual guidance.

I've searched long and hard for a write-up with photos on this (like Taco Bill does), but haven't found one, probably because its so simple. Although I'm a little embarassed to ask, I'd be more embarassed to screw this up. Therefore, I would very much appreciate if someone who intends to do this soon could snap a few pictures along the way, just showing where and how to locate the plugs, and perhaps the removal process (although that sounds pretty straightforward following the TSB, etc.)

If anyone can point me to something like this that's already posted somewhere, that would be great, too.

Finally, can anyone explain how to set the gap? Is this done on the plug itself before installing?

Thx!

ETA: Ok, I'm an idiot, 'cause sure enough, I found exactly what I was looking for... For reference:

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...ght=spark+plug

I also answered my own question about gapping - I see you need a special (and cheap! woo hoo!) tool. Cool...

 

Anyone know if copper anti-sieze is a bad idea for this process?

 

So many people have bought the antisieze there they automatically know you need the OTC socket and lubrication oil. lol

It's like the Amazon Ford Spark Plug Debacle Kit.

I got this. You can get twice as much for 5 dollars more but that is a lot. Free shipping on 25 dollar order with this one also.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77124...0965067&sr=8-5

 

Ford dealers carry the motorcraft nickel anti seize, called them today =) $20 for a 8oz bottle.r

 

I could not find any nickle a couple of years ago so picked up the copper. Has been working fine through numerous plug changes.

 

The correct way to determine which plugs you have is to look at the spark plug boot. If the boot is brown you have the new style plug if it is black you have the old style plug. The new plugs were installed in 2008 and later Mustangs starting around Nov or Dec 2007 production date. Read about it here: http://www.imboc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160119

 

LOL. Thats where I had gotten my parts from when I serviced my plugs at around 4000 miles. They didn't have a "kit" for it then.

 

Okay, big thanks to the OP and Sharky I was able to change the plugs on my 06 Gt with 21,200 miles today. Took about 3 hours since I'd never done it before, and with the writeups and pics, i managed to get all plugs out without any breakage!!!! I put new Champions in and it was the greatest feeling when everything started right up without a hitch! The old Motorcrafts were actually in great shape, but I was crapping diamonds when I was trying to break them loose! Almost stripped two of the plugs during the break free op. New Champs are running smooth and the car is a little snappier. Shouldn't have to change them again for 60K, and I feel a hell of a lot better about taking threm out next time.

Some things from my experience:
1. I used PB blaster to loosen everything up on a cold engine per the TSB, and of course it seeps into the chamber. Funny how no one ever writes about the massive blast of thick smoke that you get out of your exhaust as that stuff burns off! Not sure if any other loosening agent will burn less, but it looked like I had completely blown my head gasket! It cleared up after about 5 mins of running, so all seems to be well now.

2. I used the little Permatex dielectric grease and anti-seize packets they sell at Checker auto parts...we'll see if those were the right choices.

3. Tools! Have the right tools! I had to buy the 5/8" socket and a 10" extension, then realized I needed a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter for my torque wrench. I also used my laf blower and shop vac to clearout all the dust that built up under the hood. With the normal J-gap plugs like the Champs, the little $2 gap reader/adjuster is perfect. All plugs gapped to .045 without issue. Also wish I had used a towel or somethign on the fenderwell cause this was a dirty operation!

4. Take your time, I think it took me an hour to back out all eight plugs going 1/4 turn at a time until I felt them loosen up. I suggest making sure you have plenty if daylight for this project unless you have a shop to work in.

Again, big huge thanks to everyone on this site, I have done more to this car than I would have ever dreamed possible and saved a buttload of money in the process!

 

Good job! The Amazon link says the socket is 9/16. Which is it?

And are the plugs really 18 bucks apiece??

 

It's 9/16".

 

I'm a little confused, are the Champion and Brisk plugs the only one's that are 1 piece?