Good Bye Motorcraft 2 Piece Plugs!
I pulled mine at around 15-18K and they came out no problem. Didn't require any solvent. I cleaned them up and put on some high temp nickel antiseize and put them back in.
2008's until about Oct production have the two piece. Sticker on valve cover is AA as stated earlier.
I'll probably pull and inspect at 30K. It would be great if we could get a good motorcraft plug. The Autolites are the same thing. They offer a different heat range though.
The only other plug are Brisk Silver and they are not as long lasting as platinum.
2008's until about Oct production have the two piece. Sticker on valve cover is AA as stated earlier.
I'll probably pull and inspect at 30K. It would be great if we could get a good motorcraft plug. The Autolites are the same thing. They offer a different heat range though.
The only other plug are Brisk Silver and they are not as long lasting as platinum.
I plan to just get new heads when it comes time to replace my factory 2-piece plugs. By then, aftermarket 3V ported heads will be plentiful and I can slip in hotter cams at the same time.
It took awhile before this problem was eventually addressed by BMW.
Plug Removal
First, get the lastest TSB and read it. Get a new set of plugs, some nickel anti-seize, a 9/16" plug socket, and some of the spray carburetor cleaner recommended by Ford. Take your time and let those suckers soak. It's either this, or take it to a dealer. If you use a dealer, ask them if they've done a number of these, and if they've removed any broken plugs. That's about all you can do. Best of luck.
I've had three different sets of Autolite TWO piece units in my car over the last three years, all without problems. Common sense helps alleviate a lot of the problems experienced in changing these plugs. Not to say that they are not problematic and do not cause problems, but like anything else if time is taken and correct procedures are followed you will likely be OK.
Last edited by tom281; Dec 20, 2008 at 06:35 PM. Reason: Edited 12/20 for mis-type regarding two piece plugs.
First, get the lastest TSB and read it. Get a new set of plugs, some nickel anti-seize, a 9/16" plug socket, and some of the spray carburetor cleaner recommended by Ford. Take your time and let those suckers soak. It's either this, or take it to a dealer. If you use a dealer, ask them if they've done a number of these, and if they've removed any broken plugs. That's about all you can do. Best of luck.
that is about what I expected I would have to do. thanks
Well I did it. I pulled and lubed the plugs. I didn't need to use the soaking oil, as soon as they cracked loose they came out by hand. With only 2k miles they already had a light layer of carbon building up on them. The OTC 6900 plug tool made it super easy, it is an extension and it has a rubber boot inside to hold the plug in it to aid in the remove/install. I put a trace coating of the nickel anti-seize on pretty much the whole plug, threads all the way to 1/4" from the igniter.
While I was under the hood I pulled every single electrical connection I could find and sqeezed some dielectric grease in every female connector.
Here's the interesting part. When I started it up there was a slight variation in the idle after the initial high rev. It pulsed 50-75 rpm up and down 2-3 times then smoothed out. I swear it is idling slightly lower and the throttle response is quicker. The throttle lag with the stock setup was something that I noticed right away and was considering a CAI & tune because of the lag.
Tomorrow i will see if I still feel the same way.
While I was under the hood I pulled every single electrical connection I could find and sqeezed some dielectric grease in every female connector.
Here's the interesting part. When I started it up there was a slight variation in the idle after the initial high rev. It pulsed 50-75 rpm up and down 2-3 times then smoothed out. I swear it is idling slightly lower and the throttle response is quicker. The throttle lag with the stock setup was something that I noticed right away and was considering a CAI & tune because of the lag.
Tomorrow i will see if I still feel the same way.
First, get the lastest TSB and read it. Get a new set of plugs, some nickel anti-seize, a 9/16" plug socket, and some of the spray carburetor cleaner recommended by Ford. Take your time and let those suckers soak. It's either this, or take it to a dealer. If you use a dealer, ask them if they've done a number of these, and if they've removed any broken plugs. That's about all you can do. Best of luck.
spark plug replacement.
Wow changed the oem plugs on my 2005 gt today, the oem's had 51000 miles on them and all were carbon locked. this is what i did. removed the c.o.p. filled plug hole with liquid wench past the plug jam nut. let sit 30 min. useing a regular hand socket I squeaked each plug out 1-2 mm at a time, just be very careful not to use to much pressure to turn the plugs. all came out thank god!. and it took foever or seemed like it. replaced them with Autolite Revolution HT0's installed after applying anti-seize to each plug threads and just below the tip, installed the new plugs and tightened to 24ftlbs. It runs great and seems to have some more power.
Wow changed the oem plugs on my 2005 gt today, the oem's had 51000 miles on them and all were carbon locked. this is what i did. removed the c.o.p. filled plug hole with liquid wench past the plug jam nut. let sit 30 min. useing a regular hand socket I squeaked each plug out 1-2 mm at a time, just be very careful not to use to much pressure to turn the plugs. all came out thank god!. and it took foever or seemed like it. replaced them with Autolite Revolution HT0's installed after applying anti-seize to each plug threads and just below the tip, installed the new plugs and tightened to 24ftlbs. It runs great and seems to have some more power.
People breaking them off are probably just treating them like the regular old plugs that they are used to in other engines and just manhandling them which results in
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