Gentex Homelink Mirror Install... Pics
#1
Shelby GT500 Member
Thread Starter
Gentex Homelink Mirror Install... Pics
I installed the Gentex Auto Dimming Mirror with Homelink, Compass, and Temperature Display- (Model 50-GENK51A). I purchased the mirror at: http://www.brandnewauto.com/AUTO-DIM...-p6053597.html, which included the temperature sensor, wiring harness, and bonus wire cover.
Steps for installation are as followed:
1) Remove the OEM mirror from the windshield mount button. Sound simple, but it’s not. I tried to use the Ford Mirror Removal Tool (as pictured) without success. I also tried an array of small screwdrivers with the same results. The metal spring clips were extremely tight and I feared that I would crack the windshield with continued force. I decided to take the car to a windshield replacement shop... strike 2. Next stop was the local Ford dealership... strike 3. Nobody was able to remove the mirror. Already in possession of the new Gentex mirror, I really wanted the OEM mirror off... with the windshield intact. Ultimately, a service tech recommended a "specialist", who they call in to perform such tasks. Back to the Ford dealership for one last try. Bingo... and 20 well spent dollars! NOTE: Some have had no problems with the mirror removal, while others experienced cracked windshield. Exercise caution.
2) Jack up the car (using appropriate jack points) and remove the passenger side front wheel to access the fender liner. Remove the liner, which is held in place my 4 Philips head plastic push pins, to expose the rubber radio antenna grommet (as pictured).
3) Locate a suitable place to clip the temperature sensor. I originally installed the sensor underneath the radiator cover (as pictured), but the area was not be feasible due to heat soaked. I ultimately clipped the sensor on the splitter toward the passenger side near the wheel well. NOTE: This new location has provided accurate temperature readings.
4) Fish the wire through the passenger side of the engine bay and down a small hole against the firewall behind the battery. Be aware of excessive heat sources when running the cable. Stay near the passenger fender area to be safe. Once the sensor wiring is fed down into the wheel well, fish it through the rubber antenna grommet (as pictured).
5) From the interior, pull the wire though the rubber antenna grommet. Open the glove box (push in the sides of the glove box to hyperextend) for better accessibility. NOTE: Add some caulking to the rubber grommet (exterior), to prevent any water from entering the cabin.
6) Remove the A-Pillar molding, passenger side kick panel, and map light housing. All three just clip in place and are easily removed by grasping the panels with your hands and pulling outward, or downward as applicable.
7) Guide the sensor wiring behind the glove box area, up the A-Pillar, tuck behind the head liner, and pull down through the map light cut-out. Connect the two sensor wires to the mirror plug (included wiring instructions will provide details- link provided below).
8) Plug the harness into the back of the mirror and slip the mirror onto the windshield mount button. A #20 Torx screw will hold it in place. Clip the wire cover to the mirror and extend it to the head liner (as pictured).
9) Run the mirror wiring under the head liner, down the A-Pillar, and behind the glove box area. Cut off the attached wire connectors (NOT the ground connector) and connect the Buss Fuses/Mini-Add-A-Line (as pictured), or equivalent. This will enable you to plug the connectors directly into the fuse box, which is located behind the passenger side kick panel. Plug the black and white wire into open slot #5 (ignition-on), and the black wire to open slot #9 (ignition-off). Attached the ground wire to the dash frame bolt in the door opening (as pictured- upper right hand corner), or some other grounding location.
10) Re-attach all of the panels, as well as the map light housing.
11) You’re now ready to program the mirror (included instructions will provide details- link provided below).
Here is a link to the Gentex mirror instruction (wiring, programing, etc.): http://shop.autodimmingmirrors.com/i...%20mirrors.pdf
Project took about 2 ½ hours- once the OEM mirror was removed. I’m very happy with the mirror and all of its features. Fitment and finish are OEM quality. I highly recommend this mod. Good luck.
Steps for installation are as followed:
1) Remove the OEM mirror from the windshield mount button. Sound simple, but it’s not. I tried to use the Ford Mirror Removal Tool (as pictured) without success. I also tried an array of small screwdrivers with the same results. The metal spring clips were extremely tight and I feared that I would crack the windshield with continued force. I decided to take the car to a windshield replacement shop... strike 2. Next stop was the local Ford dealership... strike 3. Nobody was able to remove the mirror. Already in possession of the new Gentex mirror, I really wanted the OEM mirror off... with the windshield intact. Ultimately, a service tech recommended a "specialist", who they call in to perform such tasks. Back to the Ford dealership for one last try. Bingo... and 20 well spent dollars! NOTE: Some have had no problems with the mirror removal, while others experienced cracked windshield. Exercise caution.
2) Jack up the car (using appropriate jack points) and remove the passenger side front wheel to access the fender liner. Remove the liner, which is held in place my 4 Philips head plastic push pins, to expose the rubber radio antenna grommet (as pictured).
3) Locate a suitable place to clip the temperature sensor. I originally installed the sensor underneath the radiator cover (as pictured), but the area was not be feasible due to heat soaked. I ultimately clipped the sensor on the splitter toward the passenger side near the wheel well. NOTE: This new location has provided accurate temperature readings.
4) Fish the wire through the passenger side of the engine bay and down a small hole against the firewall behind the battery. Be aware of excessive heat sources when running the cable. Stay near the passenger fender area to be safe. Once the sensor wiring is fed down into the wheel well, fish it through the rubber antenna grommet (as pictured).
5) From the interior, pull the wire though the rubber antenna grommet. Open the glove box (push in the sides of the glove box to hyperextend) for better accessibility. NOTE: Add some caulking to the rubber grommet (exterior), to prevent any water from entering the cabin.
6) Remove the A-Pillar molding, passenger side kick panel, and map light housing. All three just clip in place and are easily removed by grasping the panels with your hands and pulling outward, or downward as applicable.
7) Guide the sensor wiring behind the glove box area, up the A-Pillar, tuck behind the head liner, and pull down through the map light cut-out. Connect the two sensor wires to the mirror plug (included wiring instructions will provide details- link provided below).
8) Plug the harness into the back of the mirror and slip the mirror onto the windshield mount button. A #20 Torx screw will hold it in place. Clip the wire cover to the mirror and extend it to the head liner (as pictured).
9) Run the mirror wiring under the head liner, down the A-Pillar, and behind the glove box area. Cut off the attached wire connectors (NOT the ground connector) and connect the Buss Fuses/Mini-Add-A-Line (as pictured), or equivalent. This will enable you to plug the connectors directly into the fuse box, which is located behind the passenger side kick panel. Plug the black and white wire into open slot #5 (ignition-on), and the black wire to open slot #9 (ignition-off). Attached the ground wire to the dash frame bolt in the door opening (as pictured- upper right hand corner), or some other grounding location.
10) Re-attach all of the panels, as well as the map light housing.
11) You’re now ready to program the mirror (included instructions will provide details- link provided below).
Here is a link to the Gentex mirror instruction (wiring, programing, etc.): http://shop.autodimmingmirrors.com/i...%20mirrors.pdf
Project took about 2 ½ hours- once the OEM mirror was removed. I’m very happy with the mirror and all of its features. Fitment and finish are OEM quality. I highly recommend this mod. Good luck.
Last edited by SteelTownStang; 7/7/10 at 07:58 PM.
#4
Legacy TMS Member
You are lucky. I took mine to the glass shop and they broke the glass. But I enjoy having the covenience of temp. and directions along with the garage buttons.
#5
Shelby GT500 Member
Thread Starter
Yeah... I'm actually surprised that the windshield didn't crack. Ford dropped the ball when designing the clipping mechanism. The mirror definitely wasn't meant to come off easily...
#7
Shelby GT500 Member
Thread Starter
#8
Shelby GT350 Member
I did this several years ago and it's a great mod , the auto dimming is my favorite part ... By the way I took mine to a glass shop to have it installed thinking they would have to remove the OEM mount from the windshield , but they didn't have to remove it the new mirror fit it fine ...
#9
Legacy TMS Member
I had this mirror, and it was nice. But. . . the metal spring that holds it tight to the mounting tab got weak and sloppy after less than a year.
After that, the mirror was so wobbly it became virtually useless. I eventually had to remove it (which broke the metal spring tab, making the mirror permanently useless) and had to reinstall the factory mirror.
I liked the unit; it was great to have it for the garage doors. But regrettably it is off the car now.
After that, the mirror was so wobbly it became virtually useless. I eventually had to remove it (which broke the metal spring tab, making the mirror permanently useless) and had to reinstall the factory mirror.
I liked the unit; it was great to have it for the garage doors. But regrettably it is off the car now.
#10
Shelby GT500 Member
Thread Starter
I did this several years ago and it's a great mod , the auto dimming is my favorite part ... By the way I took mine to a glass shop to have it installed thinking they would have to remove the OEM mount from the windshield , but they didn't have to remove it the new mirror fit it fine ...
I had this mirror, and it was nice. But. . . the metal spring that holds it tight to the mounting tab got weak and sloppy after less than a year.
After that, the mirror was so wobbly it became virtually useless. I eventually had to remove it (which broke the metal spring tab, making the mirror permanently useless) and had to reinstall the factory mirror.
I liked the unit; it was great to have it for the garage doors. But regrettably it is off the car now.
After that, the mirror was so wobbly it became virtually useless. I eventually had to remove it (which broke the metal spring tab, making the mirror permanently useless) and had to reinstall the factory mirror.
I liked the unit; it was great to have it for the garage doors. But regrettably it is off the car now.
#11
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Join Date: May 6, 2008
Location: Tallahassee, Fl.
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I also did this same install over a year ago but I didn't have remove the wheel to get to that grommet. I was able to remove the stock mirror using a small flat bladed screwdriver and I fished the temp sensor wire through the larger grommet. I bought mine new from a seller on ebay so the price wasn't to bad. I like the convenience this temp., compass and garage remote provides, a very worthwhile option.
#13
Shelby GT500 Member
Thread Starter
I also did this same install over a year ago but I didn't have remove the wheel to get to that grommet. I was able to remove the stock mirror using a small flat bladed screwdriver and I fished the temp sensor wire through the larger grommet. I bought mine new from a seller on ebay so the price wasn't to bad. I like the convenience this temp., compass and garage remote provides, a very worthwhile option.
The sensor for the Homelink is built into the mirror. Only the temperature feature has an external sensor.
#14
Legacy TMS Member
#15
Shelby GT500 Member
Thread Starter
#17
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Join Date: February 17, 2015
Location: Shelbyville,Il
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Hi guys,
1st of all thanks for the write up and pics it was very usefull for my install.
However i'm having an issue to get it working because in the Fuse position 5 I dont have ignition power ??
position 9 is fine with permanent 12v but nothing at 5
so I need to find another ignition power in that area as I want to avoid having to refit everything on the left side of the car.
Any ideas ?
My car is a 05 GT with manual gearbox.
is the 12V accesory plug and ignition 12v or a permanent one ?
vincent
1st of all thanks for the write up and pics it was very usefull for my install.
However i'm having an issue to get it working because in the Fuse position 5 I dont have ignition power ??
position 9 is fine with permanent 12v but nothing at 5
so I need to find another ignition power in that area as I want to avoid having to refit everything on the left side of the car.
Any ideas ?
My car is a 05 GT with manual gearbox.
is the 12V accesory plug and ignition 12v or a permanent one ?
vincent
#18
Hi guys,
1st of all thanks for the write up and pics it was very usefull for my install.
However i'm having an issue to get it working because in the Fuse position 5 I dont have ignition power ??
position 9 is fine with permanent 12v but nothing at 5
so I need to find another ignition power in that area as I want to avoid having to refit everything on the left side of the car.
Any ideas ?
My car is a 05 GT with manual gearbox.
is the 12V accesory plug and ignition 12v or a permanent one ?
vincent
1st of all thanks for the write up and pics it was very usefull for my install.
However i'm having an issue to get it working because in the Fuse position 5 I dont have ignition power ??
position 9 is fine with permanent 12v but nothing at 5
so I need to find another ignition power in that area as I want to avoid having to refit everything on the left side of the car.
Any ideas ?
My car is a 05 GT with manual gearbox.
is the 12V accesory plug and ignition 12v or a permanent one ?
vincent
2005 Mustang here. I have the GENK50 compass/temp/homelink mirror I installed back in 2006.
Check out the pic I attached of my fusebox, add a tap to fuse #4 for constant, and #7 for switched.
I hope this helps!
#19
I added mine here (see pic), it appears to be fine in this location as well... No heat soak that I can tell.
Fun job isn't it?
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