Do you think the 05 has a weak clutch?
#1
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Yes, I already did a search.
I had a 98 GT just before my 06.
I did a lot of burnouts in that car. The first time I tried a burnout in the 06 the car just sat there and the clutch slipped. It smelled like crap in my car for the next couple of days.
I figured out the next time I tried a burnout that you really need to rev that engine to get the tires lit up. To me that says that the clutch is weak. What do you think?
I'm afraid that if I get a turbo I'm going to have to plan on replacing the clutch pretty soon as well. It just seems strange to me that the 06 would have a worse clutch than my 98.
I had a 98 GT just before my 06.
I did a lot of burnouts in that car. The first time I tried a burnout in the 06 the car just sat there and the clutch slipped. It smelled like crap in my car for the next couple of days.
I figured out the next time I tried a burnout that you really need to rev that engine to get the tires lit up. To me that says that the clutch is weak. What do you think?
I'm afraid that if I get a turbo I'm going to have to plan on replacing the clutch pretty soon as well. It just seems strange to me that the 06 would have a worse clutch than my 98.
#2
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Shea @ February 27, 2006, 11:44 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I'm afraid that if I get a turbo I'm going to have to plan on replacing the clutch pretty soon as well.
[/b][/quote]
It you don't beat on it, it won't wear out. If you do 6000 RPM dumps drag racing like me on slicks, the clutch is going to be toast quick. I am mentally planning on mine wearing out this year and putting the JPC stage 2 kit in.
I'm afraid that if I get a turbo I'm going to have to plan on replacing the clutch pretty soon as well.
[/b][/quote]
It you don't beat on it, it won't wear out. If you do 6000 RPM dumps drag racing like me on slicks, the clutch is going to be toast quick. I am mentally planning on mine wearing out this year and putting the JPC stage 2 kit in.
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Good, I thought it was just me! 4 weeks after getting my new 06 GT I did the same thing... lots of engine noise, clutch out, wheels not goin' anywhere. Only did if for a second or less but still got the dreaded smell. I got real mad at myself for being stupid and wondered how much clutch damage I did. Clutch grabbed uneven for about a day then smoothed out to the way it was before. Probably melted a little clutch material onto the flywheel. My solution? No more burnouts. I don’t race so I really don't need to be doing burnouts anyway. Quick starts without dumping the clutch are fun enough. Hopefully I didn't take too much life off the clutch. (Anyone have any thoughts on that?)
Possible reason the clutch is like this? I found on the web that BMW intentionally undersized the clutch for one of their models (Z8 maybe?) so that the average driver could have a powerful engine AND smoother shifting. Don't know the reliability of that comment but I have to say that the GT shifts pretty smooth for a 300 hp car.
Possible reason the clutch is like this? I found on the web that BMW intentionally undersized the clutch for one of their models (Z8 maybe?) so that the average driver could have a powerful engine AND smoother shifting. Don't know the reliability of that comment but I have to say that the GT shifts pretty smooth for a 300 hp car.
#7
Is this just an 06 issue?
I have done several "hard launchs" in my 05, take the rpms up to 2500 ease the clutch and then just as it grabs pop the clutch out and and nail the gas. The car barks the tires leaves may be 1 foot of rubber and then takes off like mad.
I have also done a handful (maybe half a dozen) clutch pops at 3500-4000 rpm and the car on flat dry pavement will light the tires up kick slightly sideways and leave about 10 feet of rubber before hooking up and taking off like mad again.
anyway just my 2 cents on the subject.
I have done several "hard launchs" in my 05, take the rpms up to 2500 ease the clutch and then just as it grabs pop the clutch out and and nail the gas. The car barks the tires leaves may be 1 foot of rubber and then takes off like mad.
I have also done a handful (maybe half a dozen) clutch pops at 3500-4000 rpm and the car on flat dry pavement will light the tires up kick slightly sideways and leave about 10 feet of rubber before hooking up and taking off like mad again.
anyway just my 2 cents on the subject.
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I could just suck at doing burnouts. That’s entirely possible. Or maybe I just don't have a good feel for the hydraulic clutch. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img]
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I've smoked my clutch on a couple of occasions, but never while doing a burn out. I usually have more issues when I am speed shifting (not the full on full throttle shift, just very very fast shift while keeping the engine rpm way up) from first to second.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(holeshot @ February 28, 2006, 7:15 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
i think you arent letting out the clutch fast enough or you are dumping it in the wrong gear.
[/b][/quote]
I would only do burnouts in first or second (usually first). And the thing is, if I didn't let the clutch out fast enough on my 98 GT, it would just stall the car, whereas with this one it will burn the clutch. That says to me that the 98 clutch was stronger. Of course, maybe at some point someone had put an aftermarket clutch in that car (I was the 3rd owner), but as far as I know, that is not the case.
i think you arent letting out the clutch fast enough or you are dumping it in the wrong gear.
[/b][/quote]
I would only do burnouts in first or second (usually first). And the thing is, if I didn't let the clutch out fast enough on my 98 GT, it would just stall the car, whereas with this one it will burn the clutch. That says to me that the 98 clutch was stronger. Of course, maybe at some point someone had put an aftermarket clutch in that car (I was the 3rd owner), but as far as I know, that is not the case.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(StangNut @ February 27, 2006, 3:46 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Yes. It's pretty weak and VERY, VERY light compared to previous Mustangs.
[/b][/quote]
It is low-effort compared to previous Mustangs, but that's not because it's weaker. It's because it finally has hydraulic assist.
And for the guy who said his clutch was gone after 8K miles, he should mention that his car is not a normal daily driver and he doesn't drive it that way. I'm sure he's been to the track many times, or drives like he has. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Under normal daily driving, and even hard driving with occasional burnouts and hard shifts through the gears, there's no reason the clutch shouldn't last as long as any other manual transmission car.
If you smelled burning clutch and experienced clutch slippage after one burnout, you should read the threads on how to do burnouts. No disrespect intended, but this car is real easy to do a smoking burnout with, and I haven't experienced any clutch slippage issues yet. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]
Yes. It's pretty weak and VERY, VERY light compared to previous Mustangs.
[/b][/quote]
It is low-effort compared to previous Mustangs, but that's not because it's weaker. It's because it finally has hydraulic assist.
And for the guy who said his clutch was gone after 8K miles, he should mention that his car is not a normal daily driver and he doesn't drive it that way. I'm sure he's been to the track many times, or drives like he has. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Under normal daily driving, and even hard driving with occasional burnouts and hard shifts through the gears, there's no reason the clutch shouldn't last as long as any other manual transmission car.
If you smelled burning clutch and experienced clutch slippage after one burnout, you should read the threads on how to do burnouts. No disrespect intended, but this car is real easy to do a smoking burnout with, and I haven't experienced any clutch slippage issues yet. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]
#13
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Shea @ February 28, 2006, 6:34 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I would only do burnouts in first or second (usually first). And the thing is, if I didn't let the clutch out fast enough on my 98 GT, it would just stall the car, whereas with this one it will burn the clutch. That says to me that the 98 clutch was stronger.
[/b][/quote]
Or maybe that says the engine in the '98 is weaker than the 2005?
I would only do burnouts in first or second (usually first). And the thing is, if I didn't let the clutch out fast enough on my 98 GT, it would just stall the car, whereas with this one it will burn the clutch. That says to me that the 98 clutch was stronger.
[/b][/quote]
Or maybe that says the engine in the '98 is weaker than the 2005?
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You guys are talking about standing burnout, right? I should have mentioned that before. I'm talking about standing on the brake while doing your burnout...anyway, I think that the hydraulic system just feels different than all of my other Stangs and that is what makes it a bit different for doing a standing burnout.
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I don't think the clutch is physically weak. I've been to the track and launched the car a lot, but never experienced any slippage or smells from the clutch frying. No stock clutch will last long if you use DR's or Slicks.
#17
You have to remember the higher rear bias of the newer car, where the old car felt like there was an anchor in the front and the rear was made out of cardboard. The clutch is not weak, it just takes more effort to spin them. Once you have broken traction you have unloaded the clutch, so you just rev it up a little higer and dump it quickly. The new car has nearly more traction in the rain then the old one did on dry pavement. The clutch is at least the same as the old car, but most likely heavier duty as there is 40 more hp. You have to just get used to a better car. I did a standing burnout in a used 05, it was a piece o cake, just dump the clutch at 3000 rpm and jump on the brake and you can bounce the limiter untill you get bored.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kevinb120 @ February 28, 2006, 1:02 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
You have to remember the higher rear bias of the newer car, where the old car felt like there was an anchor in the front and the rear was made out of cardboard. [/b][/quote]
I did forget about that, we are talking 53/47 instead of 57/43. Good point.
You have to remember the higher rear bias of the newer car, where the old car felt like there was an anchor in the front and the rear was made out of cardboard. [/b][/quote]
I did forget about that, we are talking 53/47 instead of 57/43. Good point.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wjones14 @ February 28, 2006, 11:14 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
It is low-effort compared to previous Mustangs, but that's not because it's weaker. It's because it finally has hydraulic assist.
And for the guy who said his clutch was gone after 8K miles, he should mention that his car is not a normal daily driver and he doesn't drive it that way. I'm sure he's been to the track many times, or drives like he has. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Under normal daily driving, and even hard driving with occasional burnouts and hard shifts through the gears, there's no reason the clutch shouldn't last as long as any other manual transmission car.
If you smelled burning clutch and experienced clutch slippage after one burnout, you should read the threads on how to do burnouts. No disrespect intended, but this car is real easy to do a smoking burnout with, and I haven't experienced any clutch slippage issues yet. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
Agreed, wjones14.
Shea, if you have stock 3.55's, you should NEVER be doing burnouts in second gear. Stick with first gear.
Here's how I do a standing brake burnout. Rev it up to 3,000 in first gear, clutch in. Now, here's the tricky part. Lift your foot off the clutch as fast as humanly possible and jam it on the brake. If you are having trouble releasing the clutch quickly, try "side-stepping" the clutch. This is when you simply slide your foot off the clutch and let it pop up on its own. It'll be a little trickier getting that foot on the brake quickly, though. Don't forget to turn off your Traction Control.
Kevin, remind me not to buy any used '05s from you!! lol
It is low-effort compared to previous Mustangs, but that's not because it's weaker. It's because it finally has hydraulic assist.
And for the guy who said his clutch was gone after 8K miles, he should mention that his car is not a normal daily driver and he doesn't drive it that way. I'm sure he's been to the track many times, or drives like he has. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Under normal daily driving, and even hard driving with occasional burnouts and hard shifts through the gears, there's no reason the clutch shouldn't last as long as any other manual transmission car.
If you smelled burning clutch and experienced clutch slippage after one burnout, you should read the threads on how to do burnouts. No disrespect intended, but this car is real easy to do a smoking burnout with, and I haven't experienced any clutch slippage issues yet. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
Agreed, wjones14.
Shea, if you have stock 3.55's, you should NEVER be doing burnouts in second gear. Stick with first gear.
Here's how I do a standing brake burnout. Rev it up to 3,000 in first gear, clutch in. Now, here's the tricky part. Lift your foot off the clutch as fast as humanly possible and jam it on the brake. If you are having trouble releasing the clutch quickly, try "side-stepping" the clutch. This is when you simply slide your foot off the clutch and let it pop up on its own. It'll be a little trickier getting that foot on the brake quickly, though. Don't forget to turn off your Traction Control.
Kevin, remind me not to buy any used '05s from you!! lol
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OBleedingMe @ February 28, 2006, 2:58 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Here's how I do a standing brake burnout. Rev it up to 3,000 in first gear, clutch in. Now, here's the tricky part. Lift your foot off the clutch as fast as humanly possible and jam it on the brake. If you are having trouble releasing the clutch quickly, try "side-stepping" the clutch. This is when you simply slide your foot off the clutch and let it pop up on its own. It'll be a little trickier getting that foot on the brake quickly, though. Don't forget to turn off your Traction Control.[/b][/quote]
That's a bit different than I learned how to do it. I learned to start out with my right foot on both the brake and gas, left on clutch, rev it up, then pop the clutch out...this method being more difficult, but the advantage being that while doing the burnout your left foot is still available to push the clutch, although I guess if you are planning on taking off while doing the burnout then it doesn't matter.
Here's how I do a standing brake burnout. Rev it up to 3,000 in first gear, clutch in. Now, here's the tricky part. Lift your foot off the clutch as fast as humanly possible and jam it on the brake. If you are having trouble releasing the clutch quickly, try "side-stepping" the clutch. This is when you simply slide your foot off the clutch and let it pop up on its own. It'll be a little trickier getting that foot on the brake quickly, though. Don't forget to turn off your Traction Control.[/b][/quote]
That's a bit different than I learned how to do it. I learned to start out with my right foot on both the brake and gas, left on clutch, rev it up, then pop the clutch out...this method being more difficult, but the advantage being that while doing the burnout your left foot is still available to push the clutch, although I guess if you are planning on taking off while doing the burnout then it doesn't matter.