Brake Fluid Flush?
Brake Fluid Flush?
Hey guys...How often (if ever) have you flushed your brake fluid? I have a 2006 with 47k. Brakes don't seem spongy or anything but, wanted to know if that's something I need to put on my to-do list before I take her out this spring.
Go by color.
If your fluid is dark brown to black (think Guiness stout) then flush your system. If it is Bud Light to say an amber ale or larger don't worry about it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Beer_color
If your fluid is dark brown to black (think Guiness stout) then flush your system. If it is Bud Light to say an amber ale or larger don't worry about it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Beer_color
If I was changing the fluid I would use the silicone fluid (DOT 5 ?) I have been using it in my classic mustangs for years now, do it once!. Std brake fluid absorbs water really bad and that is what rusts brake lines etc. Just a thought.
Don't run the DOT 5 if your going to track the car.
I service my car every 7K which includes cracking the bleeders & gravity bleeding a couple of ounces of fluid per caliper. If you have never bleed your system your due, use a good DOT 4.
I service my car every 7K which includes cracking the bleeders & gravity bleeding a couple of ounces of fluid per caliper. If you have never bleed your system your due, use a good DOT 4.
Originally Posted by Little Black Pony
Go by color.
If your fluid is dark brown to black (think Guiness stout) then flush your system. If it is Bud Light to say an amber ale or larger don't worry about it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Beer_color
If your fluid is dark brown to black (think Guiness stout) then flush your system. If it is Bud Light to say an amber ale or larger don't worry about it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Beer_color
Remember that you're driving a performance car, and not a beater. Change that fluid before it gets anywhere near dark beer color...(!)
IF you do serious canyon carving, autocross or open track, you'll probably want to change fluid every other month or event, if you want things working at their optimum. You don't want a DOT 5 (silicone) fluid. Stick with a high quality DOT 3 or 4 fluid. A popular one with track guys seems to be ATE blue/gold. For less money, a popular and good quality fluid is the Valvoline DOT 3/4. It's relatively inexpensive, has a high dry boiling point, and low moisture absorption.
VALVOLINE FLUID
Go by color.
If your fluid is dark brown to black (think Guiness stout) then flush your system. If it is Bud Light to say an amber ale or larger don't worry about it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Beer_color
If your fluid is dark brown to black (think Guiness stout) then flush your system. If it is Bud Light to say an amber ale or larger don't worry about it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Beer_color
IF you're in a dry climate and don't drive in bad weather, then you can probably go to about 4 years or so without changing - for normal road driving. Cut that in half (every two years) if you live in damp climate and/or do lots of rain driving...
Remember that you're driving a performance car, and not a beater. Change that fluid before it gets anywhere near dark beer color...(!)
IF you do serious canyon carving, autocross or open track, you'll probably want to change fluid every other month or event, if you want things working at their optimum. You don't want a DOT 5 (silicone) fluid. Stick with a high quality DOT 3 or 4 fluid. A popular one with track guys seems to be ATE blue/gold. For less money, a popular and good quality fluid is the Valvoline DOT 3/4. It's relatively inexpensive, has a high dry boiling point, and low moisture absorption.
VALVOLINE FLUID
Remember that you're driving a performance car, and not a beater. Change that fluid before it gets anywhere near dark beer color...(!)
IF you do serious canyon carving, autocross or open track, you'll probably want to change fluid every other month or event, if you want things working at their optimum. You don't want a DOT 5 (silicone) fluid. Stick with a high quality DOT 3 or 4 fluid. A popular one with track guys seems to be ATE blue/gold. For less money, a popular and good quality fluid is the Valvoline DOT 3/4. It's relatively inexpensive, has a high dry boiling point, and low moisture absorption.
VALVOLINE FLUID
I'm in Chicago so, I'm not exactly in a dry climate and no canyons to carve. The car has driven through 4 winters and this is the first it has been stored (unheated garage). It's not raced and is pretty much babied (a few burnouts here and there)
Since glycol base brake fluid like DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 absorb water it is a good idea to bleed your brake at least once a years to help the internals from corroding, which will help them to last a long time. If you track the car you should use DOT 5.1 which is glycol based and totally compatible with everything in the brake system including your old stock DOT 3 break fluid. ***DO NOT USE DOT 5***. It is silicone base and the components in your system could be damaged by it not to mention it is not compatible with glycol based brake fluid and seals desinged for use with glycol base fluids. If you have ABS it takes a special electronic device to activate the ABS system while you are bleeding the system too also bleed the ABS unit. It is also a good idea to do a quick bleed of just the calipers prior to going to a track every time you run the car.
Last edited by Nice Pony; Mar 17, 2011 at 03:28 PM.
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