Belt Squeak
11/13/07, 10:34 AM
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Belt Squeak
My current issue is related to belt squeak. The belt squeak is constant, and occurs at idle or during engine load.
Please make note of description #2 below.
1. The belt squeak progressively worsens after a new belt is installed, and may reduce in severity as the engine warms up. However, the problem will worsen to the point that belt squeak is audible from engine start to engine shut off regardless of engine temperature.
2. It may be important to note the following. The vehicle suffered front end damage that caused the driver side frame rail to push against the power steering pump. There seems to be a lot of fore/aft movement in the power steering shaft. Completely removing the pulley results in the same fore/aft movement. See the video below for evidence of this movement. The video is more "audible" since you really can't see the movement.
Power Steering Pump Fore/Aft Movement
3. While the vehicle was being repaired, the engine was pulled and an 8 rib kit was installed. The belt squeak did not occur before the accident. Again, the power steering pulley was damaged during the accident, and the 8 rib kit was installed during collision repair.
4. Replacing the belt with a new belt, completely eliminates the belt squeak.
5. Completely removing the belt eliminates the noise.
6. Water sprayed on the belt eliminates the squak momentarily.
7. Belt dressing sprayed on the belt actually made the squeak worse.
8. I purchased an automotive stethoscope. However, I'm not able to really listen to the A/C, power steering, crankshaft, alternator, supercharger, and tensioner pulley because the pulley and fasteners all rotate. The remaining pulleys don't make any audible squeak noise.
9. The crankshaft is approximately 0.175 inches from the timing chain cover. The instructions that GI Joe includes with the 8 rib kit reference a need for approximately 0.200 inches.
10. I have replaced factory tensioners, and installed both Kenne Bells tensioner and currently have Thump RRRs tensioner.
11. Increasing tension on the belt does not eliminate the noise. I have adjusted Whipple's sliding idler pulley for maximum tension. I have also applied maximum tension on the tensioner pulley using a lever to increase tension while at idle.
12. Since the squeak can audibly minimize after the engine heats up, I thought I might try using a propane torch and heat the pulleys to see if I could draw any conclusion. If I heated the crankshaft pulley, it would instantly change in sound, but the squeak never went away. Heating any other pulley resulted in no audible change in the squeak.
Please make note of description #2 below.
1. The belt squeak progressively worsens after a new belt is installed, and may reduce in severity as the engine warms up. However, the problem will worsen to the point that belt squeak is audible from engine start to engine shut off regardless of engine temperature.
2. It may be important to note the following. The vehicle suffered front end damage that caused the driver side frame rail to push against the power steering pump. There seems to be a lot of fore/aft movement in the power steering shaft. Completely removing the pulley results in the same fore/aft movement. See the video below for evidence of this movement. The video is more "audible" since you really can't see the movement.
Power Steering Pump Fore/Aft Movement
3. While the vehicle was being repaired, the engine was pulled and an 8 rib kit was installed. The belt squeak did not occur before the accident. Again, the power steering pulley was damaged during the accident, and the 8 rib kit was installed during collision repair.
4. Replacing the belt with a new belt, completely eliminates the belt squeak.
5. Completely removing the belt eliminates the noise.
6. Water sprayed on the belt eliminates the squak momentarily.
7. Belt dressing sprayed on the belt actually made the squeak worse.
8. I purchased an automotive stethoscope. However, I'm not able to really listen to the A/C, power steering, crankshaft, alternator, supercharger, and tensioner pulley because the pulley and fasteners all rotate. The remaining pulleys don't make any audible squeak noise.
9. The crankshaft is approximately 0.175 inches from the timing chain cover. The instructions that GI Joe includes with the 8 rib kit reference a need for approximately 0.200 inches.
10. I have replaced factory tensioners, and installed both Kenne Bells tensioner and currently have Thump RRRs tensioner.
11. Increasing tension on the belt does not eliminate the noise. I have adjusted Whipple's sliding idler pulley for maximum tension. I have also applied maximum tension on the tensioner pulley using a lever to increase tension while at idle.
12. Since the squeak can audibly minimize after the engine heats up, I thought I might try using a propane torch and heat the pulleys to see if I could draw any conclusion. If I heated the crankshaft pulley, it would instantly change in sound, but the squeak never went away. Heating any other pulley resulted in no audible change in the squeak.
11/13/07, 09:44 PM
#2
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Join Date: August 28, 2005
Location: Winnipeg Mb. Ca
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Why don't you try spraying a little paint or maybe even machinist dye onto each pulley where the belt rides. Start the engine in short intervals until the dye starts to leave a wear pattern. Then check to see which pulley is slightly off line. Pwr strg pump pulley shafts do have some end play but how much is allowable, I don't know. Best to check a new car to see if the play is the same.
One other thing, do all the ribbed pullies have the same angles/shape in the grooves?
One other thing, do all the ribbed pullies have the same angles/shape in the grooves?
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