2005-2009 Mustang Information on The S197 {Gen1}

Are any of you GT owners experiencing wheel hop?

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Old 2/1/05, 05:39 AM
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Hey Boss Hog,

Which BMR lower control arms did you go with???

TCA019 Tubular Lower Control Arms w/poly bushings $119.95 pr.
TCA020 Adjustable Lower "Race" Control Arms w/rod ends $249.95 pr.
TCA021 Adjustable Lower "Street" Control Arms w/combination $249.95 pr.
Old 2/1/05, 08:30 AM
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Yes I have it, it is brutal! I don't spin the wheels on wet or dry so that my teeth fillings will stay put. I am waiting to hear more input from those who have changed the rear swing arms. I may buy a pair of aluminum ones, copy them for myself (I,m a machinist) and then sell the original ones.

Something has to be done, track will be opening in a few months!!!
Old 2/1/05, 08:34 AM
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Originally posted by cop on my back@February 1, 2005, 9:33 AM
Something has to be done, track will be opening in a few months!!!
I hear ya man......eliminating this issue needs to be addressed!
Old 2/1/05, 08:52 AM
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Originally posted by holeshot@February 1, 2005, 8:42 AM
Hey Boss Hog,

Which BMR lower control arms did you go with???

TCA019 Tubular Lower Control Arms w/poly bushings $119.95 pr.
TCA020 Adjustable Lower "Race" Control Arms w/rod ends $249.95 pr.
TCA021 Adjustable Lower "Street" Control Arms w/combination $249.95 pr.
I went with the TCA021 . . . . combination seamed like a good idea I set them to stock length but I have purchased an angle finder that I will use to set the pinion angle the next time I have the car up on blocks.

The Boss Hog
Old 2/1/05, 09:37 AM
  #25  
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Originally posted by holeshot+January 31, 2005, 6:38 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(holeshot @ January 31, 2005, 6:38 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Mustang69-05@January 31, 2005, 6:33 PM
Get a set of the rear lower control arms. It should fix your problem.
hopefully it is just weather related. its been rather cold around here so who knows. im really not into sticking all this $$$$ into it just to do burnouts.

[/b][/quote]

:scratch:
Your going to have to stick a lot of money for new rubber after all them burnouts anyway. Get the LCA's or cut the burnouts.
Old 2/1/05, 03:44 PM
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For those interested I installed the Steeda 555-4416, which are the street/strip ones. Like I posted earlier, they were a tremendous help. I also set them to factory length, but I like that I can change them later down the road if I decide to.
Old 2/2/05, 11:09 AM
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How did you guys that have installed the Steeda ones find the road noise? Did it increase, a lot, just a little or not at all?
Old 2/2/05, 01:47 PM
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I did'nt notice any difference in noise, with the steeda's.
Old 2/2/05, 02:57 PM
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I've done some burnouts and also had some tire spin on wet pavement and haven't really had a problem yet.

Maybe I got a "special" design....... j/k
Old 2/2/05, 04:00 PM
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Before you spend your hard earned bucks on aftermarket goodies, you can try a couple of low cost tricks that might eliminate, or at least reduce, the wheel hop.

1st - make sure the rear tire/wheels are properly balanced - a re-balance should be a freebie under warranty during the first 12K miles.
2nd - make sure the tires are properly inflated, and that both tires are inflated to the same pressure. You might try increasing tire pressure a few pounds at a time until you find a happy balance between no-hop burnouts and a decent ride. Don't exceed the tire manufacturers max inflation, and remember if you run your tires hard, it will take a little more distance to stop that stallion.

Alops, a good set of urethane bushings used with the stock rear lower control arms might help.

Farmerjohn
Old 2/2/05, 04:52 PM
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I have also been wondering why they built a car with such bad wheel hop!! At 50 or so when the roads are wet mine still hops bad, it evan does it on snow!!!. This is really getting annoying and I didn't buy a new car to buy aftermarket parts to make it right...
Old 2/2/05, 05:07 PM
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I had bad wheel hop, but was cured with the Steeda billet lower control arms. Very easy to change out. You'll need a torque wrench, which most may not have. I did mine in about 20 minutes, using my neighbors car lift. Didn't have to remove the tires either. You're supposed to have the tires in contact with the ground when changing these out. I didn't and just had my neighbor push on the tire to line it up and install the bolt. Other than that, very simple to do. I still have very little hop, only when I dump the clutch at the track. Steeda will have a 3rd link upper for the rear in about a week which is also suppose to help remove this. I may not go with this though because I really shouldn't be dumping the clutch at the track. It really just hurts my 60' time with stock tires. If I eventually go to drag radials, it may get worse? Then I will go with the 3rd upper link. What was nice about the lift was that I was able to really check out the undercarriage. I didn't notice any tranny leaks that some have mentioned.
Old 3/31/05, 11:27 PM
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Originally posted by The Boss Hog+February 1, 2005, 7:55 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(The Boss Hog @ February 1, 2005, 7:55 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-holeshot@February 1, 2005, 8:42 AM
Hey Boss Hog,

Which BMR lower control arms did you go with???

TCA019 Tubular Lower Control Arms w/poly bushings $119.95 pr.
TCA020 Adjustable Lower "Race" Control Arms w/rod ends $249.95 pr.
TCA021 Adjustable Lower "Street" Control Arms w/combination $249.95 pr.
I went with the TCA021 . . . . combination seamed like a good idea I set them to stock length but I have purchased an angle finder that I will use to set the pinion angle the next time I have the car up on blocks.

The Boss Hog
[/b][/quote]
Check SPOHN's M5-206 Tubular Adj. LCAs w/Poly-Spherical ends M5-206 at www.lmperformance.com $215.00
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