No worries it happens to the best of us sometimes and will do.

Indeed a very good looking wheel. Not sure if we will ever see a 20" in this style but the way they are design they look like they are 20's.

 

Option C: Wheels look great, but I'm not going to be buying any more street wheels for a while

 

[QUOTE=TTS197;5915886]I need to know how this was achieved.

 

[QUOTE=Digital_Synapse;5956841]That's snow, Chris, it happens when moisture comes down from the sky like rain, but the temperature is low enough to freeze it. In this picture it has accumulated on the ground.

Might have to go a bit further north than Texas, though, to see it

Not the best for traction, despite 11.5" wide meats

 

Pm sent

 

LOL! You've answered the snow part, now answer the wheels part. What are the respective offsets and backspacing for the '10 GT500 wheels as pictured above, and the ' 11 Brembo pkg wheels? If those are in check, then looks like shock boot removal, and slim spacer are in my future.

 

I'd take a set (depending on the final sizing), I loved the HP40 Monoblocks on the Steeda car

 

I PM'ed him yesterday and he said there wasn't enough interest so they are not being made!!!

 

It's probably a good thing. I think you need to be 20" diameter for an 11" wide wheel to clear the steel bump stop support structure without having the wheel stick out of the wheel well. Mine actually hit with the stock non adjustable panhard rod and I have 20x11 wheels. They wouldn't hit in normal driving but under severe conditions could touch. A 19x11 wheel would be worse.

 

Yeah 11" is a bit wide but I love the style!!!!

 

19 x 10 in matte black, with better offset than RTR's.

 

Yes something like that!!!!

 

**** to bad, I'd even take a set of 19 x 9.5's all the way around in hyper silver.

 

Sorry Ladies and Gents but it true, not much interest for the wheels at this point for the vendor to take me serious.


With the right offset there shouldn't have been any issues as long as the axle is squared away correctly and also taking into account for left to right axle play.

Unfortunately the mold is in a 19x11" only and not in the correct offset.

I was going for Hyper Silver myself
The order would have been 15 in Hyper and 15 Matte.

 

What offset would be correct for a 19x11 or a 19x10.5?


+40mm?

I think +45mm would put it too close to the inside wouldn't it? A +45mm on a 19x10.5 would have a 7.5" backspacing. I think that's too much but I've never verified that. A +40mm puts it at 7.3" Seems like that might work.


I know the old deep dish 18x10 American Muscle wheels I had were +45mm and fit perfectly under the fender and inside too. That's a 7.2" backspacing.


Edit: Looking at the new SVT PP wheels that you can get from FRPP they have a backspacing of 7.6" and an offset of 51mm for the backs.

 

My thoughts exactly.

 

Well I failed to realize until after I finished the post above was that when you widen a wheel you not only change the back spacing, but you are also changing the offset. You haven't done anything to machine it, but the centerline of a 11"'wheel width is moved inboard and the offset increases.

By my math my original wheel if widened to 11" would then have a 52mm offset
If widened to 11.5" they would have a 60mm offset

That's what makes it such a pain. 8, 9, 9.5, 10, 11 inch wheels all require different offsets for these cars.

If I have any clue what I'm talking about.

 

Can someone tell me what offset is and how it affects the wheel and car etc... Sorry if this is a lame ques. but I am trying to understand and I admit I am a bit lost!

 

I'll find a link to a site that helped me, but its on my home computer.

Essentially as I understand it if you take a wheel and stand it on its edge and look at it from the side you will be looking at the wheel's width. Just like if you looked at teh wheel from the back of the car without the tire on it. This is the width or some might say depth of the wheel.

Just for an example and RTR wheel is 19" in diameter by 9.5" wide.

So you take the exact center of this wheel width, and you get 4.75" to the front and 4.75" to the back of the wheel edges. This imaginary line becomes the basis for teh offset. A wheel with 0mm of offset would mount on the brake rotor at the back of the wheels mounting area in the dead center of the wheel. +offset means the mounting location (where the back of the wheel hub mounts to the front of the brake rotor) is moved outward toward the exterior fender. -offset means its moved inward toward the center of the car or the suspension components.

So an RTR wheel has an offset of +33mm, that means that the mounting location of teh wheel is moved 33mm toward the outside of the car from the centerline of the wheel.

Because all these wheels have different widths, they therefore have differing centerlines when it comes to width. Therefor a 9" wheel with an offset of +33mm has a different mounting location than a 11" with an offset of +33mm.

Also there is backspacing. That is simply the measurement from teh mounting point of the wheel (just like offset) but this is not measured to the center of the wheel, but rather the inside lip of the wheel. This measurement is important because it lets people know how much room they may have between there wheel and the shock in the rear, or any other suspension components.

This is at least how I understand it. I could be wrong, and if I am, someone please correct me.

 

Play with this and you'll see what I mean...

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Here's another one that's a little more complicated. But you can enter in your stock wheels size and tire size, and then what you want to change to and it will show all the changes in clearance inside, outside, wheel wells, and also tire diameter and speedo changes.

http://www.rimsntires.com/rt_specs.jsp

Remember different manufacturers have actual different sizes and of course air pressure would make a difference, but if you play around with these you'll get an understanding of the measurements and numbers alike I did.