My e-brake handle rattles like crazy
#1
I don't want to disassemble the car like this...
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/GT427/p1010038.jpg)
Just to fix the handle. It rattles at around 2000-2200 RPM's and it's terribly loud. I believe it to be the spring behind the button.
Sickness, I hope you don't mind me using your photo for as an example. I just started laughing to myself when I saw your car totally disassembled and the brake handle still fully assembled. I thought to myself "Is this how far I need to strip the car down to get to that spring?"
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/GT427/p1010038.jpg)
Just to fix the handle. It rattles at around 2000-2200 RPM's and it's terribly loud. I believe it to be the spring behind the button.
Sickness, I hope you don't mind me using your photo for as an example. I just started laughing to myself when I saw your car totally disassembled and the brake handle still fully assembled. I thought to myself "Is this how far I need to strip the car down to get to that spring?"
#5
Bullitt Member
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Originally posted by Fordracing200@May 11, 2005, 6:55 PM
hmm, who needs E brakes anyways, simply disconnect it
hmm, who needs E brakes anyways, simply disconnect it
![Biggrinjester](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrinjester.gif)
Don't forget kids, the E-brake does re-adjust your rear disks.
Knowing is half the battle
G I JOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOE
![Biggrinjester](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrinjester.gif)
I really wish the person who owned my old mustang before me woulda told him that. It really does make a difference.
#7
Originally posted by forddude1416@May 13, 2005, 2:10 AM
*start psa mode*
Don't forget kids, the E-brake does re-adjust your rear disks.
Knowing is half the battle
G I JOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOE
I really wish the person who owned my old mustang before me woulda told him that. It really does make a difference.
*start psa mode*
Don't forget kids, the E-brake does re-adjust your rear disks.
Knowing is half the battle
G I JOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOE
![Biggrinjester](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrinjester.gif)
I really wish the person who owned my old mustang before me woulda told him that. It really does make a difference.
![Dunno](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#8
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I'm on my 3rd SN-95, had a '94 and a '98 before my current '04 ... all have been V6 5/Speeds, almost 250,000 miles total to date and I have never experienced this.
All SN-95's share the same e-brake lever, so it can't be a GT-only thing. Are you running a complete exhaust system ?? Having dumps before the rear axle, long-tube headers, or both can cause things to rattle & buzz !!
If not it could just be a bad e-brake lever, which should still be under factory warrantee on your 2004.
If you have to order a replacement, get the Leather-Wrapped Cobra version ... it looks and feels much better than the factory plastic handle. I bought one from Kevin ... see parts deal in 2005 forum, here is the link:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=14741
Doug
All SN-95's share the same e-brake lever, so it can't be a GT-only thing. Are you running a complete exhaust system ?? Having dumps before the rear axle, long-tube headers, or both can cause things to rattle & buzz !!
If not it could just be a bad e-brake lever, which should still be under factory warrantee on your 2004.
If you have to order a replacement, get the Leather-Wrapped Cobra version ... it looks and feels much better than the factory plastic handle. I bought one from Kevin ... see parts deal in 2005 forum, here is the link:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=14741
Doug
#9
oooh, a leather handle...Mayhaps I shall purchase one of these. I did put on the Magnaflow catback and catted X-pipe, but I would swear it made the rattle beforehand. I can see, though, that it would be worse once I added those parts, because it vibrates the whole car at the RPM's between 2000-2200. In any case, I need to either take it to the dealer, or figure out how to take off the handle myself.
#10
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E-Brake lever removal ...
- In the console remove two screws beneath the felt pad.
- Now pull up on the console insert and un-plug the power port.
- Then remove the bezel around the shifter. There is a small plastic tab at the back edge of the bezel, so you need to push forward on bezel then pull up then pull the two sides and disconnect the power port. If your car is a 5-Speed, remove shift ****.
- Remove the two screws behind the shift bezel that hold the front edge of the console to the lower dash.
- Un-plug the console harness on the driver's side next to the shifter.
- Now is the tricky part ... to be able to remove the console, you must be able to disengage the e-brake engagement teeth and pull the lever up almost vertical. There may or may not be a sheet metal tab on the driver's side of the e-brake lever held on by 1 small hex screw. This tab keeps you from being able to swing the e-brake engagement teeth away from the main toothed gear. Remove this hex screw and tab (if it is there) and pull the spring loaded teeth away and pull up on the lever to where it is almost vertical. Now you can wiggle the console up and off of the e-brake lever.
- There is a hole in the e-brake lever that lines up with a hole in the round toothed gear. Line these holes up and put a roofing nail in and let the handle down ... this releases the cable tension but keeps the spring coiled up.
- Un-Screw / remove the e-brake switch on the passenger rear side of lever.
-Un-bolt the e-brake lever from the floor and pull the cable off the wheel (may need to pry a tab back to do so).
Thats it ... reverse to re-install.
Doug
- In the console remove two screws beneath the felt pad.
- Now pull up on the console insert and un-plug the power port.
- Then remove the bezel around the shifter. There is a small plastic tab at the back edge of the bezel, so you need to push forward on bezel then pull up then pull the two sides and disconnect the power port. If your car is a 5-Speed, remove shift ****.
- Remove the two screws behind the shift bezel that hold the front edge of the console to the lower dash.
- Un-plug the console harness on the driver's side next to the shifter.
- Now is the tricky part ... to be able to remove the console, you must be able to disengage the e-brake engagement teeth and pull the lever up almost vertical. There may or may not be a sheet metal tab on the driver's side of the e-brake lever held on by 1 small hex screw. This tab keeps you from being able to swing the e-brake engagement teeth away from the main toothed gear. Remove this hex screw and tab (if it is there) and pull the spring loaded teeth away and pull up on the lever to where it is almost vertical. Now you can wiggle the console up and off of the e-brake lever.
- There is a hole in the e-brake lever that lines up with a hole in the round toothed gear. Line these holes up and put a roofing nail in and let the handle down ... this releases the cable tension but keeps the spring coiled up.
- Un-Screw / remove the e-brake switch on the passenger rear side of lever.
-Un-bolt the e-brake lever from the floor and pull the cable off the wheel (may need to pry a tab back to do so).
Thats it ... reverse to re-install.
Doug
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