The engine is making a tapping noise when cold, it goes away after the engine warms up. Its coming from the passenger side head, it sounds like a bad lifter or something, I dont want it to damage my cam or anything by driving it more..but as of now I dont have the cash to pull everything off and replace the lifters. The lifters are brand new and I believe they are still under warrenty, but since its an only vehicle rite now, I cant pull it apart and work on it.

So my question is, will it hurt the engine or anything if I drive it? I never drive it while its tapping, I always let it warm up before I take it anywhere. When I changed my oil at 500 miles, I used 10w 40 and some lucas oil hoping it would fix the probelm..obviously it did not. So will it hurt my engine or anything in the head if I drive it this way?

The engine a freshly rebuilt 1999 4.6l 2V with only 600 miles on it. Just did the first oil change.

Thanks.

 

It wont hurt it to much as long as you don't well run it like a mustang.

 

What will it hurt eventually though? Im not sure when Ill be able to fix it. Wont it damage my cams?

 

I wouldn't run it, def sounds like something went wrong. pull the cover and check for a collapsed adjuster.

 

Yeah it will hurt it and the cams probably will get messed up, if you can fix it do so, but don't run it hard or it
Will make it even worse

 

Sounds more like an exhaust leak rather than a brand new lifter failing.

Since the engine was just rebuilt its probably time to check tightness in a number of areas starting with the exhaust manifold - and incl the heads (hopefully its not a head gasket leaking). That's not unusual to get an exhaust leak that needs retightening. And a noisy lifter usually doesn't stop just because the engine is warm.

 

Its gotta be a lifter...it makes a tap noise and clicks and what not..it sounds nothing lije an exhaust leak to me, ill try and post a vid and see if you can tell by that

 

When the engine is cold the tapping noise the a lash adj not priming up if the noise is going away after warm up it is a bad adj or need lighter oil 10 30 to heavy on a new rebuild

 

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What oil would you recommend? I guess i screwed up when i changed the oil at 500 miles, because I thought the oil mite need to be thicker and i went up to 10w 40... Should i drain the oil and go lighter than 10w 30? And how light?

Also, i read that "lucas oil" can stop your engine from breaking in because of it being synthetic or something. Is lucas oil bad for a new engine?

 

I figure if im gona buy new lifters, ill just take these back because they are new with a warranty from Autozone..
But thank you

 

I believe in dino oil or Motorcraft semi-synth for break ins. You want a bit of friction - then change within 1000 to clear any metal.

 

I followed the book on the break in. It said to use standard oil and drive it soft for 500 miles, then change it. Im almost 700 miles rite now.

 

you are using too thick of an oil imo for one and using an additive to stop the noise is only a bandaid. you have to find the source and fix it or damage could be done.

Also lash adjusters can make a tickingltapping noise noticeable at any engine rpm/temperature. It doesn't hurt to check for an exhasut leak and can be an added step to your check list to finding teh problem and then crossed off has you work towards the solution.

I'm still leaning towards a stuck/collapsed lash adjuster(s). You need to pull the cover off teh side you think the noise is coming from and move the cam to base circle and check for loose cam fowlers caused by the lash adjsuter plunger bottoming out. A collapsed "lifter" will have excessive clearence between teh lash adjuster and the fowler. replace the them.

The other option is the one I pmed you. Best of luck.

 

The best advice Ive gotten towards this problem. Ill check for an exhaust leak. Ill update you in the morning and let you know what i find when i pull the valve cover off.

Thanks for the info man.

 

Have you placed a long screwdriver to the cam cover with your ear against the handle?
Sometimes you can isolate a noise that way, and perhaps learn if its coming from within, near which journal, or that the sound isn't there... leading back to an exhaust leak.

 

Actually thats a really good idea

 

That is a good tip. I use a mechanics stethoscope now, I got more false reading with the screwdriver ( but it will work ) but pin pointing the steth is much better and can be had for cheap and is good for the tool box.

 

Where can i get ine? Napa? Autozone?

 

try them or sears ( craftsman ) or jump on a tool truck if you spot one at a garage. I got one at sears.