Admittedly, this intake is much different from my '97, but the problem remains. I attempted what you're thinking about... yeah, not so much, it turned out. I wanted to SO badly...

The fuel rail is the problem. It can't be gotten out of the way. So you can't really get the injector out. And putting it back in? Forget it.

From what I'm seeing in pictures... same story. Intake's in the way. Gotta move it.

---

BUT!... don't let me stop ya. I was told the entire dash of a '66 Thunderbird had to be removed to get the expansion valve out of it for the A/C. It literally is step one in the manual:

Step 1: Remove Dash (Paraphrased)

Dad figured I'd be all day doing that. The secret was to ask him where the thing was. I found it... and 30 minutes later, I had it in my hands and asking him "Is this what you meant?" He was rather taken aback. Nobody had apparently tried taking it out whilst upside down in the driver's seat with wrenches before...

So... yeah, don't let my experience tell you different. Go for it.

 

.... Successfully replaced the injector with 0 results. Car misfires and sputters and backfires.

What are my options now ? bad compression, burnt valve ?

Could the problem be because of the red alternator light that comes and goes very frequently ?

 

Just a shot in the dark but start the engine and unplug the mass air meter. If it smooths out then the maf is bad

 

If I'm not mistaken, those crank sensors would cause misfires on those also. Really what I would recommend at this time would be to get a professional diagnosis. Beats constantly throwing parts at it.

 

Actually I just brought the car to the professional service and guess what ? They called me up and asked the usual wires plugs stuff.. And then they were like: "We need more time, can't diagnose in 30 minutes" I agreed and currently waiting for them to call me again. Good thing is they said it does not look like valves or valve springs are bad.

On the somewhat related note. I originally come from Europe and we drive european cars which we believe are very complex and total mess when it comes to diagnostics. So one of the reasons I bought this pushrod mustang was the seeming simplicity... But guess what, the car is like a space ship, so many professional individuals are completely clueless and can't tell what is wrong with it... Live and learn

 

Done with it !

 

re: weatherstrip: Get a new one, pop the door panel off, put it on, put door panel back on, done.

Really that's all you can do.

Glad you fixed it man! Sucks to diagnose all that stuff, but you got it all done!

/Sorry it wasn't the injector. I thought for SURE that'd be it..
//Not sure if pulling leg on the weather strip, but figured it couldn't hurt to reply anyway.

 

I still can't believe that coil pack showed consistent readings while connected to mutli meter and yet it was bad.



Appreciate your suggestion. I will try to get the strip. As far as the injectors go, I am glad that I managed to successfully take apart and put together upper intake with it's bells and whistles. I have never been so "intimate" with this car before (or any other car) so now I feel more confident.

 

If you used ohms, it will lie to you. Voltage is the best way to test. Just for future reference.

 

I have to say that it is my firm belief that swap is the best way to test a coil pack. Even volts can lie. Coil packs are weird.

And getting 'intimate' as you put it, Levine, is a good thing to do with a car. Knowing how it works, how it goes together, will help ya not be screwed, intentionally or not, by a mechanic. Sometimes they are throwing things at a velcro wall hoping one of those things has the other half of velcro and sticks. And you get stuck with the bill.

Like, oh, injector cleaning...

/That's not to say we don't either... but we don't also charge ourselves labor, right?

 

Did that battery indicator light stop going on and off after that fix?

 

I have a 96 Mustang 3.8 V6 with the exact same symptoms. What I discovered was mind-boggling. Remove the valve cover from the driver's side of the engine inspect both rocker arms on cylinder 1. The rocker arm closest to the firewall on my engine continually loosens up one time even came off completely. I have replaced the rocker arm and nut And still the problem persists I have done this four times already and it still continually loosens up over time. How loose the rocker arm nut is will determine how and when the engine misfires the looser the nut gets the sooner it will misfire.

 

Coil packs are temperamental items, usually they don't fail right out but randomly show signs of failure. Items to watch for that are caused by a coil breaking down are
1) misfiring on random or multiple cylinders
2) loss of power
3) worsening misfire with warmer under hood temps
4) worsening misfire under loads (accelerating or hill climbing).
5) when misfiring letting car cool down brings back proper engine performance (temporarily)

Coils have always done this and have had problems on both my 65 and 99 plus outboards from the 30s Since outboards are usually pushed to WOT all the time they are know to run through coils
one thing to remember heat and electronics are and always have been enemies. Missing caused by fuel problems will normally be on all cylinders

 

thanks ive done everything trying a coil pack tomorrow! Fingers crossed and also learned alot so thanks to every one with there input on the thread