Brake Pads
Brake Pads
Do you guys (and girls) have any preferences on brake pads? I'm finally having someone show me how to change them myself and I wanted to get an above average set, if possible.
Thanks!
Thanks!
i just put some duralast metalic ones on my 1999 GT.. i only did the fronts but they were $25 for the set.
installation is identical no matter which ones you use.
btw how are you planning on getting the rear caliper pistons in? not sure if they are different on a V6 but the Gt uses a screw type adn you can't just push them in with a c-clamp like the fronts. last time i had to use a pipe wrench to get twist them back in and i don't ever want to do that again.
installation is identical no matter which ones you use.
btw how are you planning on getting the rear caliper pistons in? not sure if they are different on a V6 but the Gt uses a screw type adn you can't just push them in with a c-clamp like the fronts. last time i had to use a pipe wrench to get twist them back in and i don't ever want to do that again.
Now you all got me curious....Tell me more about this 'screw' type for the rears. I didn't know they were different from the front. What type of screwdriver/tool is needed? Is it this way on the '02 GT's as well? I just wanna know for future reference.
6 cyl and 8 or the same. The book says you can use needle nose plyers or you can get the special wrench fron auto zone as a loaner tool ! The rears do screw in clock wise! You do need to align the marks on the caliper piston with the center of the bracket.
The book shows this. Have you been having any e-brake problems?
When you replace the pads the parking brake self-adyuster should take up the additional slack watch for that to happen.
Beats the crap outta me! I've never done a brake pad install before, my Father-In-Law is going to come over and walk me through it. Belated birthday present! lol
I'm finding as I get older, the less "stuff" I want for gifts. I'd much rather have someone like my Dad-In-Law take the time and show me how to do stuff like this.
Let me rephrase that....the less non-car related "stuff" I want. Just in case my wife sees this post...lol You can always buy me that 2004 Competition Orange Mach I keep talking about....and a supercharger...lol
I'm finding as I get older, the less "stuff" I want for gifts. I'd much rather have someone like my Dad-In-Law take the time and show me how to do stuff like this.
Let me rephrase that....the less non-car related "stuff" I want. Just in case my wife sees this post...lol You can always buy me that 2004 Competition Orange Mach I keep talking about....and a supercharger...lol
Can anyone tell me what this means?
Even though Hawk Performance burnishes its brake pads as a final step in the factory, all brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotors (new or used) that they will be used against. Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance.
Even though Hawk Performance burnishes its brake pads as a final step in the factory, all brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotors (new or used) that they will be used against. Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance.
well one thing i would suggest it having you rotors shaved at a brake place before putting new pads on. that way if they are uneven it won't unevenly wear the new pads. but it beats me what bedded-in means.
I think that what it means by bedded- in, it is saying that when youre done take the car out and make a few rounds of stops stopping slightly harder every time. Ive always been told this is a propper way of breaking your pads in.
Well, there is good news and bad news....it wasn't my brakes that were the problem....The problem was this peice of metal (which I'm assuming is a heat shield) had its rivits sheared off and was loose, rubbing up against the rotor.
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3812504
As you can see, there isn't any damage to the metal, other than the contact with the rotor:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3812505
A little closer of the damage to the metal:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3812506
Can anyone correctly identify this part and more importantly, do I really need it? And if so, any clue on how to re-attach it? There aren't any points to screw it back into, it was definately three rivits...
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3812504
As you can see, there isn't any damage to the metal, other than the contact with the rotor:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3812505
A little closer of the damage to the metal:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3812506
Can anyone correctly identify this part and more importantly, do I really need it? And if so, any clue on how to re-attach it? There aren't any points to screw it back into, it was definately three rivits...

To do the rears, you either need a big 'c' clamp, a small piece of wood and a pipe wrench (and about 2 hours), or invest in one of these tools. WIll last a lifetime and make the rear brake changes a breeze!
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...AT265_pg16.htm

Or this one (cheaper)
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...65_pg26.htm#31
Here's an even cheaper alternative:

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...65_pg18.htm#31
Six sides, the manufacturer claims it works with most domestic and some import applications.
Works with a 3/8" ratchet and extension

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...65_pg18.htm#31
Six sides, the manufacturer claims it works with most domestic and some import applications.
Works with a 3/8" ratchet and extension
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