1994-2004 V-6 3.8 and 3.9L V6 Mustangs

Brake Pads

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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 12:32 PM
  #1  
PaulF's Avatar
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Brake Pads

Do you guys (and girls) have any preferences on brake pads? I'm finally having someone show me how to change them myself and I wanted to get an above average set, if possible.

Thanks!
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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The aggressivness of pads and price range you want will determine what is recomended. I know a few people that like the Hawk HPS pads, but I've never used them.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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I have douralast ceramic(spelling) on the front of mine. I havent had any problems out of them. I paid 45 for the set at autozone.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver99v6
I have douralast ceramic(spelling) on the front of mine. I havent had any problems out of them. I paid 45 for the set at autozone.
I was actually looking at the ceramic pads...is there any differences in installation or how long they last?
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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i just put some duralast metalic ones on my 1999 GT.. i only did the fronts but they were $25 for the set.

installation is identical no matter which ones you use.

btw how are you planning on getting the rear caliper pistons in? not sure if they are different on a V6 but the Gt uses a screw type adn you can't just push them in with a c-clamp like the fronts. last time i had to use a pipe wrench to get twist them back in and i don't ever want to do that again.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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Now you all got me curious....Tell me more about this 'screw' type for the rears. I didn't know they were different from the front. What type of screwdriver/tool is needed? Is it this way on the '02 GT's as well? I just wanna know for future reference.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by wildstanglx90
Now you all got me curious....Tell me more about this 'screw' type for the rears. I didn't know they were different from the front. What type of screwdriver/tool is needed? Is it this way on the '02 GT's as well? I just wanna know for future reference.

6 cyl and 8 or the same. The book says you can use needle nose plyers or you can get the special wrench fron auto zone as a loaner tool ! The rears do screw in clock wise! You do need to align the marks on the caliper piston with the center of the bracket.

The book shows this. Have you been having any e-brake problems?

When you replace the pads the parking brake self-adyuster should take up the additional slack watch for that to happen.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Knight
ibtw how are you planning on getting the rear caliper pistons in?
Beats the crap outta me! I've never done a brake pad install before, my Father-In-Law is going to come over and walk me through it. Belated birthday present! lol

I'm finding as I get older, the less "stuff" I want for gifts. I'd much rather have someone like my Dad-In-Law take the time and show me how to do stuff like this.

Let me rephrase that....the less non-car related "stuff" I want. Just in case my wife sees this post...lol You can always buy me that 2004 Competition Orange Mach I keep talking about....and a supercharger...lol
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:55 PM
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Can anyone tell me what this means?

Even though Hawk Performance burnishes its brake pads as a final step in the factory, all brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotors (new or used) that they will be used against. Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:37 PM
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well one thing i would suggest it having you rotors shaved at a brake place before putting new pads on. that way if they are uneven it won't unevenly wear the new pads. but it beats me what bedded-in means.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:00 PM
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I bet that's what they mean....but if anyone knows for sure, I'd appreciate it
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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I think that what it means by bedded- in, it is saying that when youre done take the car out and make a few rounds of stops stopping slightly harder every time. Ive always been told this is a propper way of breaking your pads in.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 03:42 PM
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Well, there is good news and bad news....it wasn't my brakes that were the problem....The problem was this peice of metal (which I'm assuming is a heat shield) had its rivits sheared off and was loose, rubbing up against the rotor.

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3812504

As you can see, there isn't any damage to the metal, other than the contact with the rotor:

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3812505

A little closer of the damage to the metal:

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3812506

Can anyone correctly identify this part and more importantly, do I really need it? And if so, any clue on how to re-attach it? There aren't any points to screw it back into, it was definately three rivits...
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 09:06 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Knight
i last time i had to use a pipe wrench to get twist them back in and i don't ever want to do that again.
Lol, that is what I had to do as well. Took bloody ages!

To do the rears, you either need a big 'c' clamp, a small piece of wood and a pipe wrench (and about 2 hours), or invest in one of these tools. WIll last a lifetime and make the rear brake changes a breeze!

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...AT265_pg16.htm



Or this one (cheaper)

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...65_pg26.htm#31
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 02:02 PM
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Here's an even cheaper alternative:


http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...65_pg18.htm#31

Six sides, the manufacturer claims it works with most domestic and some import applications.

Works with a 3/8" ratchet and extension
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