So. Surely there has to be more to doing this than just buying the pulley. Anything else to to be removed? Anything plugged or capped? What about the EGR?

 

Sorry not to be able to post pics (at work) but if you are going to the trouble of removing the smog pump, you may as well pull the whole system, including the EGR, air tube on back of the heads (plug the holes) the sensors on the pass side firewall/shock tower, vac lines etc. It will clean up the engine bay, but will also require either an MIL eliminator or a retune with chip to remove/turn off the dash light. Do not bother with the pully, just run a shorter belt.

 

you can plug the head with a short 5/8 11 bolt. and this should give you an idea on belt size

 

Where would the MIL eliminator go and do they sell them specifically for this? (I've only seen then for catless midpipe for mod motors)

 

If you delete the egr ( also do not forget the egr block off plate ) you will either need a simulator that plugs in or have a tune done to turn off the EGR function..either way you go the effect will be the same the EEC will automatically bypass,ignore & delete the EGR function and no driveability,performance or A/F,spark advance control problems should show.

last known supplier if the egr eliminator that I know of: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/egr-eliminator


keep in mind that w/o the smog pump the stock cats have a higher chance of clogging w/o the supplied air. You can delete them but keep in mind the car does tend to "smell" more has a by product or run high flow cats ( also good idea if your state does a visual) they seem to do well w/o the air pump fresh air flow.

 

Thanks guys! I've been trying to do all the work myself on this car, and so far so good. I've learned a lot! (With help from good forums, google, Chiltons, and even some times YouTube!lol) I appreciate all the help guys!

 

Will I need both of these? The plate says it retains stock throttle cable position is something I noticed...

 

You only need the block off plate to keep the stock egr spacer and you are done. If you remove the stock egr spacer then you only need the spacer. keep in mind people have had issues with the spacer clearing the coolant tube and cruise control issues. you will also need to cap off the coolant hoses going to the stock egr spacer once you remove it. you only need one or other not both.

If you just want the simple route get the block off plate, it covers the opening left after you take off the egr valve. just bolt on the block off plate and your done you don't have to mess with anything else.

I have found mixed results with the simulator so I also wanted to point that out also. some guys haven't had great results which can happen since you are only fooling the computer. the true way is turning the function off like I stated via a tune but it may be worth the try.

 

Ok.... Jokes over!lol I'm having hell getting the bolts out of the heads. Even tried standin on my head! Is there a trick to this I should know about?

 

Righty tighty lefty loosey?

 

Very clever....lol! It's almost like the engine has to be removed. No space! I've heard that you can do it with engine in. Guess I'm just not holdin my tongue just right...

 

The bolts come out with the motor in, yes space is tight. they are aged in there so they are not going to give very easy, some give easy some don't but be careful. you can try to make the lever longer wether adding a wrench to a wrench, using a long handled ratchet or adding a small pipe to the ratchet. if you get it to loosen but the threads feel tight turn it back in and then back it off again ( this works good for water pump bolts also), loosen some more then turn it back in and back out. this helps to break crap of threads. go slow and work the bolt back and forth and it should help keep it from breaking. on the other hand it may just need that 1st snap to get it free and then it will come out. best of luck.

 

Got em! Pickin up bolts tomorrow at work to plug the holes

 

Sweetness.

 

Make sure you use thread sealer!

 

Im going to have to clean all this gunk out of the holes before the bolts will even think about starting. Is there a way to do this without getting all that trash in the head? Sorry this is dragging out so long. Not a lot of spare time between work and school.