91notchback

Is it better to pull the engine while it's still connected to the tranny? Or pull it separate? I found a nice write up to follow about pulling it separate, but I heard it is easier to do with motor and tranny together. Haven't found a good write up about pulling them together. I just need to pull the engine to swap it with another one.

skunk21

can it be done yep and imo makes things easier, I've done it. it is easier with an engine tilter but can be done w/o one with some help. plug the tail shaft when you pull the yoke out and watch the shifter for clearance when it is coming out, it's close when it clears the core support but it will come out.

Glenn

either way its about the same amount of work

91notchback

I've read that it was less of a pain to stab the whole thing going back in than it was to line up the bolt holes if you just do the engine.

skunk21

auto or manual?

cdynaco

I've always found it fairly easy with this. (Manual)

91notchback

Uummmm... My next question is: what exactly is that?

skunk21

good for lining up the clutch. really like Glenn stated it can be just about the same amount of work although with a few guys we have pulled a few motor/trannies out pretty fast ( no hacking ever ). I have also many times just pulled the tranny and left the bell on ( manual) did my work, lined up the clutch, etc reinstalled the bell put the motor in and slid the tranny in. autos take a few more steps. either way.




tool for lining up the clutch.

91notchback

Cool I do have a five speed. Not real sure how I'm going to do it yet. Guess I'm going to undo everything for the engine first, then see which method makes more sense to me at the moment. Thanks guys!

blacksunshine92

Another thing to note is that to get them in or out you have to have the car lifted off the ground a decent amount to get the angle you need to clear the core support. For pulling the engine, I would pull the tranny off first. It's easy to just pull it out while you're under there disconnecting things. You'll need a universal and a long extension; re-installing it is up to you, it is easier to line up the tranny when its out of the car, but you also take more if a chance of scratching or damaging the core support if you put it in in one piece (especially without a leveler).

Good luck!
-Greg

bob

Either way, pulling the engine and tranny as others have said requires enough ground clearence to tilt it up. On a auto car it can get messy if there is enough fluid to leak out of the output shaft on the trans if there is nothing to plug the hole.

Its pretty easy to pull the engine by itself, less than an hour to yank it out if you take the time remove the intake and heads.

91notchback

Does anyone know if a gt40 (3 bar head) motor out of a 96 explorer will be plug and play in my 91? If not, what will I have to change?

skunk21

One issue, the explorer cam is absolute s***. The stock H.O. cam is better than the explorer stick. one of the best options ( and it isn't just my opinion) is the trick flow stage 1 cam, great match for the GT40 top end. Ford robbed that motor, don't use that crappy cam. change out the springs with the cam change , the stock ones aren't up to the task and a tune for the 24lb injectors for starters.

91notchback

So the gt40 motor comes with 24lb injectors? If so, I would need a matching MAF calibrated for the injectors too correct?

skunk21

here is my standard answer for calibrated mafs..

the stock MAF isn't a 19lb injector maf, the ecm controls the function. In laymen terms..Ford has a meter with a known air flow to voltage function (function is the math name for graph with a x and y axis OR f(x)=y). This function is known. Ford inputs this function into the ECM and call it a transfer function therefore ford can use any maf it wants. The aftermarket doesn't work with ford so the aftermarket sells a 'scaled' or 'skewed' maf/samle tube to trick the ecm when using a different size injector. The other option is to have a proper tune, ecm recalibration, done. End of guess work. Driveability issues are possible due to the sample tube or maf being bad or having a bad "calibration" .

91notchback

Ah. I got you! So basically: all the calibrated MAF is doing is tricking the computer. A tune will tell it exactly what it is. Thanks for all of yalls help so far!!