no spark
I let my mother drive the car and it has to get towed back home......
Anyway there is absolutely no spark. I have replaced the coil, plugs, wires, rotor button, cap, and module. The only thing left would have to be the distributor right? It just stopped running in the middle of driving and refused to do anything. I havent checked to see of the rotor is actually spinning, could it be a distributor gear? Anyway can someone tell me how to get the distributor out? :notnice:
Anyway there is absolutely no spark. I have replaced the coil, plugs, wires, rotor button, cap, and module. The only thing left would have to be the distributor right? It just stopped running in the middle of driving and refused to do anything. I havent checked to see of the rotor is actually spinning, could it be a distributor gear? Anyway can someone tell me how to get the distributor out? :notnice:
I would first take off the cap and crank it very briefly...see if the rotor is spinning but be real careful in there and don't touch anything. Also...you changed out the ignition module that connects to the distributor? Without that working it won't spark.
sometimes if the distributor is loose, it will "jump" out of place. We had this happen working on my buddies car. As said, crank the motor, if it doesnt turn, then thats your problem. If it does, check your button. If it gets too corodded then it wont transfer the current through.
I am going to assume your rotor bug turns with the distributor cap off.
If it does not turn, Than I would say you have a timing chain or belt problem.
Ok lets say it does turn, and, you still have NO spark on the plug wires.
You will need a 12 volt test light. There only a couple bucks.
They look like pointy screw driver with a wire attached to the handle.
Inside the handle is a light bulb.
Notice your coil has three wires going to it
#1 A big one in the middle
#2 Two little wires, one each side of the big one.
Of the two little wires one goes to the distributor and the other goes to the battery or ignition.
This small wire to the battery is the one you test for current using the test light unit. If it don't light up than you have found your problem.
The small wire to the battery is the one you test for current using the test light unit. If it don't light up than you have found your problem.
If there is no juice there than use a small jumper wire to the positive side of the battery to correct it
You will still need to short the solenoid or turn key to start
Hope this helps
If it does not turn, Than I would say you have a timing chain or belt problem.
Ok lets say it does turn, and, you still have NO spark on the plug wires.
You will need a 12 volt test light. There only a couple bucks.
They look like pointy screw driver with a wire attached to the handle.
Inside the handle is a light bulb.
Notice your coil has three wires going to it
#1 A big one in the middle
#2 Two little wires, one each side of the big one.
Of the two little wires one goes to the distributor and the other goes to the battery or ignition.
This small wire to the battery is the one you test for current using the test light unit. If it don't light up than you have found your problem.
The small wire to the battery is the one you test for current using the test light unit. If it don't light up than you have found your problem.
If there is no juice there than use a small jumper wire to the positive side of the battery to correct it
You will still need to short the solenoid or turn key to start
Hope this helps
Originally posted by kevinspann@November 19, 2004, 7:55 PM
yeah... is there supposed to be only 12 volts at the top of the coil?
yeah... is there supposed to be only 12 volts at the top of the coil?
WITH THE KEY ON position?
On my 1992 2.3 the answer is yes
However, it is good that you ask some cars do have differing voltage. If it is not written on the coil itself? Than any parts salesman can tell you. Or if you have access to the same model of car that is working one? you can test it with a volt meter. My came in at like 12.3 or 12.4 or close to that.
From what I have been told most cars are 12 volt
Short term if your in a pinch the higher voltage will work but over time will burn up your coil or rotor bug if its say a 4 or a 6 volt.
Not to fret but. I have been told if you do have a lower voltage than Radio Shack a voltage reducer.
Just put in the wire on your way from the postive battery post.
You could wire a toggle swicth to?
Oh say under the driver seat.
This would double as a cheap anti theft deturent
My bet is its 12 volts.
I am sure your not talking about the big one in the middle
of the coil?
Cuz, I promise its a whole lot more than 12 volt, thou intermitant
the other little wire I am not sure about voltage but, I am pretty sure its just a ground.
Good luck
Another after thought
Altho it was an an experiance on a GM product
Once on a 64 Impala and again years later on my 77 Regal
Anyway, one of the small wires on my starter came off (not the big one)
This allowed me to crank the engine forever or until the battery was drained.
Note: one of the side effects was that there was none of the ususl lights on the dash board when you put the key into on position
Key on but engine not running
Once I spliced the wire back together the light came back
You know in the on position
Oil, Temp, Check engine, airbag,
Altho it was an an experiance on a GM product
Once on a 64 Impala and again years later on my 77 Regal
Anyway, one of the small wires on my starter came off (not the big one)
This allowed me to crank the engine forever or until the battery was drained.
Note: one of the side effects was that there was none of the ususl lights on the dash board when you put the key into on position
Key on but engine not running
Once I spliced the wire back together the light came back
You know in the on position
Oil, Temp, Check engine, airbag,
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