Yes, the question that's been asked (I presume) a thousand times. This is what I'm starting with: 1989 5.0 LX notchback, 5-speed. Centerforce clutch, 3.73 gears, rebuilt posi (yuck, Chevy word...), Flowmaster cat-back exhaust, 50/50 drag shocks in the rear, drilled rotors up front, lowered suspension, 16" pony rims.

So what next... Mac shorty headers? Fresh shortblock (mine has 245,000 kilometeres on it but runs strong)? Vortech supercharger (drool)? NOS? Drag radials?

I like the supercharger idea a lot but with the high mileage on the engine, I'm doubting that it would be a good idea at this point. Maybe a stroker engine?

Thoughts?

:scratch:

 

Hmmm . . . I would stiffen her up a bit. Sub-frames, and/or strut tower brace. I then would either finish the exhaust upgrades (headers, h-pipe), or just save for a rebuild. Keep in mind, though, that if you plan to add heads on a motor rebuild that your headers match up. Don't get "regular" shorties if you plan on getting GT40-P heads, etc.

 

Bore the stock block to a 306 and add TFS or AFR heads with a Procharger P-1SC, and add strength with Kenny brown super street cage and sub frame connectors. A full Bassani exhaust will wake it up to. a Cobra T-5, and a pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter.

 

You gonna S/C it? Alot of people dont care for anything bigger than a 331 on a S/C'd stroker.

You could go out on the lunatic fringe and get an aluminum 8.2 deck block and punch it out to like 377 cid (4.125 bore and a 3.0 stroke I tink, or it might be a 3.4 or 3.5 inch stroke, I cannot remeber). Howver a stroked 5.0 block with good heads and an S/C would be cutting it close to the limit on block durability.

 

Not if the compression is reasonable, like 8 or 9.0

 

the practical limit for a stock 5.0 block is in the 550 to 600 hp range and a certain amount of max revs. I cant remeber the practical RPM limit on it, but its not to far north of 6000 or 6500 rpm IIRC???? Detonation aside that much HP pounds on that skinny little bird boned block pretty good.

The other big reason (depending on how a 347 crank kit is engineered) is oil control and for some people the generally considered poor R/S ratio and supposedly attendant problems with piston speed and sidewall loading (then again a pontiac 455 has a worse R/s ratio and I think even a chevy 454 might be a bit on the poor side too). you gotta push the rod up pretty far in a 347 piston and there may or may not be any room left for a proper ring land hence the aforemention oil control problems. My own 347 has just a sliver of ring land left to support the oil control ring without a spacer placed under the ring to support it.

 

Subframe connectors, hands down. They are one of the cheapest mods on a fox stang and you can tell a world of difference in the "feel" of the car.

After that it is according to how far you want to go with the power. If you are looking for around 275 to 300 rwhp, then get a good head intake and cam combo. If you are happy with 350 to 400 rwhp, just build a nice 331 with a good hci combo. If you want mmore after that, you can always slap on a good s/c or turbo and have a monster on your hands. Also, nitrous is a reasonably cheap way to get an extra 100 or so hp with the push of a button.


Shorty headers are ok, but you honestly wont see that much of a gain on a stock car. I think I picked up 6 to 8 rwhp with a set of shorties.

You might want to look into a nice short throw shifter as well. They can be had relatively cheap, and quicker shifts means quicker et's. A good shifter will make you daily driving expieriance better as well, so the benefit is two fold. To be honest, I prefer a stock shifter over the triax, but I am weird and 99% of the people you ask will tell you that a short throw is alot better than stock.

 

I know, i dunno hwy i posted that, beats me :scratch: But That would be alot of power and stuff on a nblock with such a strong bore of stock durability

 

I would def. start with a set of nice headers and a mid pipe. Than I would work on the intake.

 

yeah, i would start with the subframes and finish the exhaust. then start on the intake side of things. maybe CAI, T/B even heads cam intake. and drive it till the bottom end goes bye bye. then get a fresh rebuild. i wouldnt even bother with a stroker. then after the engine is back together. go for the S/C. oh, and some fuel system upgrades would be good too. and i am in love with the Holley Systemax Kit.

 

I would get the Kenny Brown Subframe Connectors, a full Bassani exhaust, Edelbrock RPM 2 Intake Manifold, 70mm TB, and a BBK CAI. One of my friends is running that setup in his 95 and its pretty nice and works well.

 

Yah, i agree with Dan

 

do the suspension stuff first. A intake and a throttle body is a waste of time without doing heads and cam. Your intake will just have to come off again when you go to add either of the other two, so either go with suspension stuff, or save up and do the whole h/c/i swap. There is nno point in half way doing something instead of doing it right the first time.

Also with stock stuff in the engine, headers and a mid-pipe may net you 15 or 20 rwhp if you are lucky.

 

Well as any professional racer will tell you Brakes first, suspension second, and power last. So I suggest subframes,control arms.and strutt brace. You will get down the track much faster with less wheel spin , better traction.