My topend is pretty much brand new.this was my 3rd drive and all of them short.I got on it pretty hard.when I slowed down my engine started making lots of noises and clanking.so I shut it off and pulled the valve cover.inside the valve cover was the infamous white creamy substance(see pic).so I assume head gasket.

Well today I pull everything off and the head gasket looks great(see pic).I am very confused.I did use stock gaskets with a 4.030 bore.but they didn't overlap into the bore.I visually checked for cracks on the deck.and now I don't know what to do.please help.
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Btw 88 302

 

Couple questions. Are the heads new? If not were they checked for cracks and warping? Do not reuse those head gaskets. Did you torque them correctly? Clean all the water out of the thread holes before you try and install the head bolts. Also go to autozone and buy a can of copper coat. Spray the head gaskets generously on both sides with a coating of copper coat. The head gaskets also may have a top and bottom or may be side specific.

 

Yes the heads are brand new trickflow 170.I used arp head studs with the supplied thread stuff that came with them.yes I did use a torque wrench in the proper sequence.I took my time prepping the deck.I ran a stone across it to make sure it was smooth and burr free.I even used a straight edge and a .004 feeler gauge to insure that the deck wasn't warped.

 

If the head gasket was the issue shouldn't I see some kind of signs were the failure/leak was?I am just worried that I may have cracked the block of something of that sort.

 

Was the head gasket supplied with the heads? Trick flow may require a special gasket. I always use copper coat on every head gasket I do just to be safe. Dunno man.

 

The head gasket wasn't supplied with the heads,but it was the recommended gasket to use.it was a trickflow head gasket kit.I didn't use any copper coat but I think I will next time.thanx for the input.

 

It could have come from the intake also. I would have done some testing to rule out the head gasket before i tore it down. That said doubt you would see a blow out area on the gasket when it was more due to a sealing issue. I take it you used the 10112 gasket set? I never used any copper coat on my gaskets but it may not hurt. IMHO I would clean the block surface more. Really if the head/block surface is straight and prepped. The gasket is laid on correctly and facing the right way. The bottom bolts that go through the coolant passages get thread sealer on them and it is torqued right you should be good.

another area that causes issues is the intake, more the coolant passages going to the head. These can leak w/o you seeing it and get into the oil. I use 2 types of sealent Permatex right stuff and regular "black" sealent. I ditch the "cork" or "rubber" end gaskets for the intake but most important I put a very thin coat of regular black sealant ( not "right stuff" it is too thick) around the coolant ports to aid in sealing on teh both the intake and head, use your finger to smear a thin film around the ports. I then lay a 1/4" bead of right stuff starting about a 1/4" or so on one head go across the block and stop about the distance on the other head, doing the same on the other end. This seals the intake ends much better.

I also torque the intake using the correct pattern but then go over it again. you will find the first few bolts are already loose. Sounds like you had a sealing issue either intake or head. recheck the surfaces, if using a torque wrench with extension remeber they change the torque value. make sure to use good thread sealer on the lower bolts.

 

Ok this helps quit a bit.on the intake I used the same method as you described.I ditched the end gasket.I used rtv black on all the coolant passages.so that parts is probably ok

On the lower head bolts I only used the stuff supplied with the arp head bolts.I'm not sure if it was sealant but I don't think so.I also did use some extensions and should have thought about losing torque with them.good call.

I will reprep the deck and get a good straight edge and check it again.I did check it once bit I'm not sure how much I trust the one I used.

Thanx very much.you give me confidence that it was just an error in my part, which I was hoping and not something worse.

I don't have the gasket number on me now but I called summit yesterday and asked them about them.they are recommended for my head, but with stock bore only.I have 4.030. It was a Felpro gasket and I did make sure it didn't overlap into the cylinder.but when I replace I will use the same gasket with bigger bore to be sure.

 

I know this sometimes can be PIA but call trickflow tech on the gasket 1st. Make sure you are using sealent on the lower bolts like we stated. I use laquer thinner on rags to clean the block. Keep in mind the gasket has a sealing surface impregnated in them so copper spray probally isn't needed. I was somewhat wrong on the extension. Only of the extension moves the head of the wrench away from the fastener does it change. IE crows feet or wobble extension. Also when did you do the Cam? remember coolant can sneak in from the timing cover also. I"m hoping you will be good to go, keep fingers crossed.

 

The cam has been in there for years.

 

I will call trickflow to verify.thanx for the help skunk.I will not use the spray then.

 

Ok. I did a little research.picked up the gaskets.and reassembled the motor.I haven't fired it up yet because I need a dizzy gear.but anyways:

after I drained my oil the other day.I noticed that it did not have any coolant in it.my coolant also did not have any oil in it.so i left the oil in the pan to see if maybe it would separate or the water would rise.and nothing.I would have thought how much water was in the valve cover, I would have seen something in the oil.

Is this strange?
Did I possibly turn the motor off fast enough that it didn't circulate into the pan?

 

i suspect you may have slung a rod ( clanking noise ) .. if it`s not too much trouble ****** the oil pan off and have a look .. and why do you need a dizzy gear .. they usually strip off when something locks up the oil pump ...the milk may just have been condensation ... engines usually do come apart on decelleration

 

Also does a PVC system have anything to do with my problems?all I have is one breather.the other valve cover has just an oil fill tube.

 

I when dissambled the motor i checked what I could.the motor turns over very easily by hand.I also made sure that all the pistons came up all the way.

the reason I need a gear is because I have a new msd dizzy.it is an older model since I have been carb converted.I need a steel gear for a roller cam.but the msd came with a cast gear.the older dizzys and new dizzys have different diameter shafts.so what I did was make a bushing for my 88 stock dizzy gear.but I think that it was not made perfect because when I pulled the dizzy out it showed some uneven wear to it.there was also water on the gear to.so I think when the water got on the misaligned gear it made the shaft bounce up and down a little bit.because if I take the dizzy shaft and push it up and down it makes the same noise I hear.this could have also thrown off my timing causing it to run funny.this is just my theory and I believe the motor itself is ok.the gear I need is a steel gear with .468 inside diameter.the stock dizzy has .531 diameter.like I said though this is because I have a carbed model dizzy on my 88.

 

I will check to see if the oil pump spins over by hand when I get off work.I sure hope that I didn't mess up the oil pump.thanx for the input.