bob

That can is pretty small for what you need to do, based on using your Cobra heads and trying to get to 400 hp

The stock Cobra heads are good for about 190 cfm of flow (between .500 and .600 lift) and your gonna need to spin the motor to 6,000 rpm to get a peak 400hp (about 350 rwhp), so with that in mind this is what I'd do;


Edelbrock Performer RPM II 5.0 Intake Manifold (or similar)
Comp Camps 35-518-8
1-3/4 Long tube headers (since most of them seem to be around 30" long and you need to spin the engine to 6,000 rpm to get 400 hp)
32 lbs/hr injector @ 41 psi with a pump that flows around 40 gph (150 lph)

You can use the stock 9.0 compression ratio since that cam will increase dynamic compression slightly (although more would be better)

If you check out the Comp Cams site, they also make converter reccomendations for thier various lines of cams (along with) gear reccomendations

---> edit<---

Don't forget about the cheap power adding stuff like a windage tray and UD pullies and like I mentioned before making sure the engine is spot on with valvetrain geometry and pushrod length - also you might want to consider lightening up the valvetrain where you can - not so much to increase the rev range but to more precisely control valve motion, one fo the downsides to a hyd roller valvetrain is the heavy weight of the lifters and erratic operation as the revs climb - things that will help here are lightend valves, beehive springs, and lightweight retainers as well as being able to preload the lifters and set an exact lash to prevent pump up.

Your gonna have to probably set the heads up with an adjustable valvetrain so while your at it, look at some undercut vavles and a good valve job to help flow a bit - you might want to research what sort of valve job promotes the best flow - sometimes a 3 angle valve job isn;t the best in every situation (in the case of the GT40p heads a three angle valve job bites into low lift flow)

Autotooner

hmm, compcams.com says that part # is for a windsor block. would it still work on a 5.0? would any machine work have to be done?

Valentino

a 5.0 is a windsor block

bob

Yup, the 302 is pretty much the short deck version in the windsor family, heads and cams are interchangable as well as a few other items, otherwise its all specific to the engine.

speaking of which, thats always bugged me about Ford, they'll do whatever they can to save a penny, so you end up with things like 7/16" head bolts on a 302 and 1/2" head bolts on a 351, or different size journals for the crank and so forth. I really wish I had a wayback machine so I could get a hammer and mash some bean counter fingers back in the 60's when all this stuff was still on the drawingboard, and its still just as bad today with the mod motors (although with the advent of the 3v engines it seems to be a bit better in terms of parts deproliferation)

Autotooner

ok, I thought it meant 351W at first..... now I"m working on getting the 5.0 thats in it fired up....

red pony

Hi ! I was looking at what was said thus far and I agree 100% with bob on what has been said so far . The only thing I might add is that when you tear down the' 75 302 you plan to use, make sure the inside diameter where the main bearings seat into the block and main cap are perfectly round . Check this with the bearings removed . Bolt the caps back on and inside mic. the main bore. If it is .001 out of round, don't use that block or caps . That engine has had a hard life already, probably caused from heavy loading or high RPM's thus stretching the main caps out making the bore out of round. This is critical, because without that roundness, the main bearings can 'spin' in the block because there isn't enough 'crush' on the bearing to hold it in place at high HP and high RPM's. Spin a main bearing just enough to partially block oil passage through the crank to any rod at 6000+ RPM's and in less than 2 seconds, you have ruined 1 crank , 1 rod, and 1 day ! Maybe even more days if you let it really bother you ! Also, if you want 400 HP at the crank, I suggest a 347 stroker kit available at Summit or your favorite speed shop. It requires you 'clearance' the block for the larger rotating assembly and get it balanced, but you will get 400+ HP a lot easier than staying with 302 CID. First, it raises the compression ratio from 8.6/1 to around 11/1 . Then , with carefull planning, you can give it enough cam to lower the static compression back down to 150 PSI per cylinder , making it possible to run pump gas . But remember, when you make horsepower, you make a LOT of extra heat ! Get the largest 3 or 4 core radiater you can fit in the car . And RUN A FAN SHROUD ! Or a high quality electric fan . If you use the stock clutch fan, that's fine but use the fan shroud to help pull the air through the radiater. Run a 160 degree thermostat and at least a 16 LB rad cap , also 50/50 anti-freeze - water with REDLINE WATER -WETTER also found at your favorite speed shop.As far as oil is concerned, run 20 w -50 from cradle to grave- you won't regret it !