Brake proportioning valve
#1
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I have ask the following for this part with no luck.
Napa
Autozone
Oreilleys
Ford dealer
I believe its called a brake fluid proportioning valve.
On my 2.3 four cylinder it is found on the drivers side inner fender well just below and a little in front of the master cylender.
For several months the brake light has come on about once a month idicating that the master cylinder is low on brake fluid.
You will only notice it drip a small amount of fluid if you have a helper hold the brake while looking at it.
So what's the story guys.
Is this some sort of a conspiracy on Fords part to sell only new cars?
Is this part used on other cars besides mustang and fords?
Does it look similar?
what's the skinny?
Napa
Autozone
Oreilleys
Ford dealer
I believe its called a brake fluid proportioning valve.
On my 2.3 four cylinder it is found on the drivers side inner fender well just below and a little in front of the master cylender.
For several months the brake light has come on about once a month idicating that the master cylinder is low on brake fluid.
You will only notice it drip a small amount of fluid if you have a helper hold the brake while looking at it.
So what's the story guys.
Is this some sort of a conspiracy on Fords part to sell only new cars?
Is this part used on other cars besides mustang and fords?
Does it look similar?
what's the skinny?
#2
Service Manager
That part is obsolete from Ford. I tried to buy one a few months back to repair a botched job from another shop for a '96 Cobra and even that one was obsolete. Your only choice for an OEM replacement is a used one. You will need to match the part number because they are all different based on years often and by engine size. Unfortunately I have thrown a lot of those away because nobody ever wanted them. If you can't find one send me a PM with the part number and the next time I go down to the local salvage yard I will see if I can find one for you.
#3
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Thanks I found one from an old 89 4cylinder 5 speed standard and used it on 92 automatic.
Thus far it seems to work fine.
Most the time using a used part has not bothered me.
However, on brakes I was a little stand offish.
If memory serves me right theses were not needed back in the day when all 4 brakes were drums.
Thus are they needed when all 4 wheels are disc brakes?
Plus I have to wonder if say a 4 cyl truck or Tempo had a similar unit in its brake lines?
Either way this part seems to have long term investment possibilities if tucked away for a rainy day.
Also so when looking on Ebay under Mustang I only found one of a different design used only in 65,66,67, and 68.
These were said to be needed in a front drum conversion to disks.
And thanks, SVO Paul for the come back
Thus far it seems to work fine.
Most the time using a used part has not bothered me.
However, on brakes I was a little stand offish.
If memory serves me right theses were not needed back in the day when all 4 brakes were drums.
Thus are they needed when all 4 wheels are disc brakes?
Plus I have to wonder if say a 4 cyl truck or Tempo had a similar unit in its brake lines?
Either way this part seems to have long term investment possibilities if tucked away for a rainy day.
Also so when looking on Ebay under Mustang I only found one of a different design used only in 65,66,67, and 68.
These were said to be needed in a front drum conversion to disks.
And thanks, SVO Paul for the come back
#4
Service Manager
Back in the day they were basically distribution blocks...an a 4 wheel drum car every wheel cylinder was the same in bore size and capacity...therefore equal pressure in the braking system was all that was needed.
Today every car has different sized calipers, and wheel cylinders or both. As an example: A Mustang SVO has a 73mm front caliper bore and the rear is much smaller...so an equal distribution of pressure would cause the rears to lock up because there is less fluid capacity in them. Likewise the 93 Cobra had smaller capaicty front calipers than the SVO but still larger than the rear calipers(also smaller than the SVO-same as the Tbird Turbo Coupe) so a proportioning valve was needed to equalize the system for proper bracking.
The 4 cylinder cars(except SVO) had even smaller front calipers and used a wheel cylinder at the rear so there was a need there in different calibration form for another proportioning valve...etc, etc....
Hopefully that clears things up a bit as to the reason for that
Now, with that said...you can still set up your own system in the situation of an unobtanium part....I've done this on many custom applications...you can run the front brakes off a simple "T" fitting and install an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear brakes....this will allow you to tune in your brakes for proper operation. The front does most of the stopping anyway so this allows you to bias in your rear brakes at the proper level for your car. Ofcourse this takes a little work in the way of bending and flaring brake lines
Today every car has different sized calipers, and wheel cylinders or both. As an example: A Mustang SVO has a 73mm front caliper bore and the rear is much smaller...so an equal distribution of pressure would cause the rears to lock up because there is less fluid capacity in them. Likewise the 93 Cobra had smaller capaicty front calipers than the SVO but still larger than the rear calipers(also smaller than the SVO-same as the Tbird Turbo Coupe) so a proportioning valve was needed to equalize the system for proper bracking.
The 4 cylinder cars(except SVO) had even smaller front calipers and used a wheel cylinder at the rear so there was a need there in different calibration form for another proportioning valve...etc, etc....
Hopefully that clears things up a bit as to the reason for that
Now, with that said...you can still set up your own system in the situation of an unobtanium part....I've done this on many custom applications...you can run the front brakes off a simple "T" fitting and install an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear brakes....this will allow you to tune in your brakes for proper operation. The front does most of the stopping anyway so this allows you to bias in your rear brakes at the proper level for your car. Ofcourse this takes a little work in the way of bending and flaring brake lines
#5
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man...........in english por favor that was very informative. i never knew that. but i never have had any brake problems other than warped rotors and new pads
#6
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Another side note
I went to the Autozone and looked for a proportioning valve on a 2006 as well as a 2001 6 cylinder Mustang.
Strangely enuff they were both obsolute already.
I guess some car parts are like computers. As there are parts that are obsolete before you can even get them home.
I had to wonder what if any ramifacation there would be if one day a welder were simply to weld the center nut shut?
Of course this would only be done if the nut were a way from the inner springs. As I certainly would NOT want to mess with the springs temper?
In the center of the current nut is the leaky offending rubber.
ESP Since I was also told by an auto zone employee the valve was also setup as a pressure release for extreme hard braking.....
I went to the Autozone and looked for a proportioning valve on a 2006 as well as a 2001 6 cylinder Mustang.
Strangely enuff they were both obsolute already.
I guess some car parts are like computers. As there are parts that are obsolete before you can even get them home.
I had to wonder what if any ramifacation there would be if one day a welder were simply to weld the center nut shut?
Of course this would only be done if the nut were a way from the inner springs. As I certainly would NOT want to mess with the springs temper?
In the center of the current nut is the leaky offending rubber.
ESP Since I was also told by an auto zone employee the valve was also setup as a pressure release for extreme hard braking.....
#7
Service Manager
Originally posted by Daysleepin@December 22, 2005, 9:03 PM
Another side note
I went to the Autozone and looked for a proportioning valve on a 2006 as well as a 2001 6 cylinder Mustang.
Strangely enuff they were both obsolute already.
I guess some car parts are like computers. As there are parts that are obsolete before you can even get them home.
I had to wonder what if any ramifacation there would be if one day a welder were simply to weld the center nut shut?
Of course this would only be done if the nut were a way from the inner springs. As I certainly would NOT want to mess with the springs temper?
In the center of the current nut is the leaky offending rubber.
ESP Since I was also told by an auto zone employee the valve was also setup as a pressure release for extreme hard braking.....
Another side note
I went to the Autozone and looked for a proportioning valve on a 2006 as well as a 2001 6 cylinder Mustang.
Strangely enuff they were both obsolute already.
I guess some car parts are like computers. As there are parts that are obsolete before you can even get them home.
I had to wonder what if any ramifacation there would be if one day a welder were simply to weld the center nut shut?
Of course this would only be done if the nut were a way from the inner springs. As I certainly would NOT want to mess with the springs temper?
In the center of the current nut is the leaky offending rubber.
ESP Since I was also told by an auto zone employee the valve was also setup as a pressure release for extreme hard braking.....
The fact is that Autozone NEVER has and NEVER will carry factory proportioning valves....that is a dealer only item. The parts are still available for an '06(I could have one Monday from my warehouse if I wanted it).
ANd that "pressure release for extreme hard braking" a complete fabrication/lie...and not true. Again...consider the source. I can't even remember how many times I have gone into those parts stores and had to either correct the person behind the counter or actually go look up my own part!
Again, if you rely on your information from a generic parts store...you are doing yourself a disservice and setting yourself up for problems. If you plan to keep an older Ford I suggest you go to www.helm.com and buy the CORRECT shop manual from those who make them for Ford...Chiltons and other books may be close but are not always accurate and you will find the Helm manuals to be a far better resource for your information.
And for the record, though not available as a kit....those proportioning valves CAN be rebuilt....I've done it. But you have to know what you are doing and how to find the O rings and parts needed so I don't recommend it for the novice.
#8
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Gee svopaul.
Is there a place on line specifically a Ford dealer that will allow me to look up parts online? Zone does
I know when ever I have tried? Well I must be looking in the wrong place for every time I do for its always (Give us your name number and email address) and we will get back with at the convenients of ford.
Well me (smelling a spammer) I am not about to fall for that one.
Its much the same way when going to a ford dealer parts department. It seems many parts departments are found in doors in the show rooms now a days.
This is where even if you have parts buying agenda written in stone you still get confronted by sales people with commission happy agenda of their own.
Needless to say I have enjoyed popping off to the pop up sales people that know nothing about old cars...LOL
Is there a place on line specifically a Ford dealer that will allow me to look up parts online? Zone does
I know when ever I have tried? Well I must be looking in the wrong place for every time I do for its always (Give us your name number and email address) and we will get back with at the convenients of ford.
Well me (smelling a spammer) I am not about to fall for that one.
Its much the same way when going to a ford dealer parts department. It seems many parts departments are found in doors in the show rooms now a days.
This is where even if you have parts buying agenda written in stone you still get confronted by sales people with commission happy agenda of their own.
Needless to say I have enjoyed popping off to the pop up sales people that know nothing about old cars...LOL
#9
Service Manager
Originally posted by Daysleepin@December 25, 2005, 1:59 PM
Gee svopaul.
Is there a place on line specifically a Ford dealer that will allow me to look up parts online? Zone does
I know when ever I have tried? Well I must be looking in the wrong place for every time I do for its always (Give us your name number and email address) and we will get back with at the convenients of ford.
Well me (smelling a spammer) I am not about to fall for that one.
Its much the same way when going to a ford dealer parts department. It seems many parts departments are found in doors in the show rooms now a days.
This is where even if you have parts buying agenda written in stone you still get confronted by sales people with commission happy agenda of their own.
Needless to say I have enjoyed popping off to the pop up sales people that know nothing about old cars...LOL
Gee svopaul.
Is there a place on line specifically a Ford dealer that will allow me to look up parts online? Zone does
I know when ever I have tried? Well I must be looking in the wrong place for every time I do for its always (Give us your name number and email address) and we will get back with at the convenients of ford.
Well me (smelling a spammer) I am not about to fall for that one.
Its much the same way when going to a ford dealer parts department. It seems many parts departments are found in doors in the show rooms now a days.
This is where even if you have parts buying agenda written in stone you still get confronted by sales people with commission happy agenda of their own.
Needless to say I have enjoyed popping off to the pop up sales people that know nothing about old cars...LOL
Well, Gene Evans Ford used to have an online parts search but I haven't looked in a long while so I can't say if they still do. I know there are other Ford dealers that offer this but don't have a list. I would suggest that if you really want a straight and quick answer that is hassle free that you contact our own member here (05stangkc) since he works in a Ford parts department .
Yes, many parts dept. locations are in or near the showroom....they key to avoiding sales people is to walk as if you have purpose...do not appear lost or as if you are looking for something and they won't bother you in most cases. I have had no problems being approached but if I am walking in I am walking straight there with purpose and not making eye contact. Ofcourse I used to be in sales(not car sales) so I have a lot of insight into the field .
But seriously use 05stangkc if you need accurate information on parts from Ford
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05stangkc (4/19/23)
#10
Brake proportion valve
hey I’m unfortunately having the same **** problem trying to find this part for an 01 mustang base model v6 any ideas or where I can go to get one?
That part is obsolete from Ford. I tried to buy one a few months back to repair a botched job from another shop for a '96 Cobra and even that one was obsolete. Your only choice for an OEM replacement is a used one. You will need to match the part number because they are all different based on years often and by engine size. Unfortunately I have thrown a lot of those away because nobody ever wanted them. If you can't find one send me a PM with the part number and the next time I go down to the local salvage yard I will see if I can find one for you.
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05stangkc (4/19/23)
#11
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@dustinlee
I found the Oem Part Numbers on MY Trusty Microfiche Dated June 2002 So it Would Cover 99-02 Mustangs. Now These Numbers are Great For Searching Ebay for NOS But The Part itself Will Have an ID# Which is Similar to a Part Number But Not Quite. So Having the Number Off Your Original Part Helps With the Search. Problem with the Online Ford Catalogs You Find is Once a Part Has Been Obsolete for Some Years it Simply Drops out of the Catalog. So That Does Not Help Matters. Here are The Numbers for The Proportioning Valve Years 99-02 and Possibly Later But My Fiche is June 02 So Not Sure on Later Models.
3.8L & Gt With ABS F9ZZ-2B091-BA
With ABS and TRACTION Control F9ZZ-2B091-CA
Without Antilock Brakes F9ZZ-2B091-AA
IF You Email Me Your Vin I May Be Able To Pull ID# Off My Database And Save You From Removing it If it is Still on Car.
clevparts@aol.com
Pic Is Example of Number On Valve. XR33-2B091-AB Not Saying this is Yours But Could Be!
Also Be Advised That a Wrecking Yard Interchange Guide May Show Earlier & Later Valves Will also Work. Best to Match Id# & Visual. Here are Some On Ebay!
Happy Hunting!
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...rtioning+valve
KC
3.8L & Gt With ABS F9ZZ-2B091-BA
With ABS and TRACTION Control F9ZZ-2B091-CA
Without Antilock Brakes F9ZZ-2B091-AA
IF You Email Me Your Vin I May Be Able To Pull ID# Off My Database And Save You From Removing it If it is Still on Car.
clevparts@aol.com
Pic Is Example of Number On Valve. XR33-2B091-AB Not Saying this is Yours But Could Be!
Also Be Advised That a Wrecking Yard Interchange Guide May Show Earlier & Later Valves Will also Work. Best to Match Id# & Visual. Here are Some On Ebay!
Happy Hunting!
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...rtioning+valve
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 4/19/23 at 09:06 PM.
#12
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1965-66 Proportioning Valve
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mf5fHAvDCvhrw4v59
I would have thought that somebody would have talk about how to adjust this valve before me but I can not find it. I learned this because my rear brakes where locking up pretty easy. They felt really good on dry perfect roads but pushing the pedal fast and lockup. I had to take it out and open it up and hears is what I learned. Turn outer piston screw out gets you less rear brake. My unit is almost all the way screw out. There is a heavy spring behind it and then there is a smaller piston inside that. It does not move much, like maybe 1/8". Apply pressure and it restricts the flow to the rear brakes.
If you don't want to take it out you should be able to unscrew the piston all the way and you will just get a spring that will fall out and then you should be able test your brakes driving and feel a difference. If not you have bigger problems and either you buy a new one and take it completely apart.
Hopefully this is helpful and you can enjoy your machine.
I would have thought that somebody would have talk about how to adjust this valve before me but I can not find it. I learned this because my rear brakes where locking up pretty easy. They felt really good on dry perfect roads but pushing the pedal fast and lockup. I had to take it out and open it up and hears is what I learned. Turn outer piston screw out gets you less rear brake. My unit is almost all the way screw out. There is a heavy spring behind it and then there is a smaller piston inside that. It does not move much, like maybe 1/8". Apply pressure and it restricts the flow to the rear brakes.
If you don't want to take it out you should be able to unscrew the piston all the way and you will just get a spring that will fall out and then you should be able test your brakes driving and feel a difference. If not you have bigger problems and either you buy a new one and take it completely apart.
Hopefully this is helpful and you can enjoy your machine.
#13
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mf5fHAvDCvhrw4v59
I would have thought that somebody would have talk about how to adjust this valve before me but I can not find it. I learned this because my rear brakes where locking up pretty easy. They felt really good on dry perfect roads but pushing the pedal fast and lockup. I had to take it out and open it up and hears is what I learned. Turn outer piston screw out gets you less rear brake. My unit is almost all the way screw out. There is a heavy spring behind it and then there is a smaller piston inside that. It does not move much, like maybe 1/8". Apply pressure and it restricts the flow to the rear brakes.
If you don't want to take it out you should be able to unscrew the piston all the way and you will just get a spring that will fall out and then you should be able test your brakes driving and feel a difference. If not you have bigger problems and either you buy a new one and take it completely apart.
Hopefully this is helpful and you can enjoy your machine.
I would have thought that somebody would have talk about how to adjust this valve before me but I can not find it. I learned this because my rear brakes where locking up pretty easy. They felt really good on dry perfect roads but pushing the pedal fast and lockup. I had to take it out and open it up and hears is what I learned. Turn outer piston screw out gets you less rear brake. My unit is almost all the way screw out. There is a heavy spring behind it and then there is a smaller piston inside that. It does not move much, like maybe 1/8". Apply pressure and it restricts the flow to the rear brakes.
If you don't want to take it out you should be able to unscrew the piston all the way and you will just get a spring that will fall out and then you should be able test your brakes driving and feel a difference. If not you have bigger problems and either you buy a new one and take it completely apart.
Hopefully this is helpful and you can enjoy your machine.
http://www.stangerssite.com/brakevalve.html
KC
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