Blocking off Heater Core at Intake & Water Pump?
6/1/07, 08:26 PM
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Blocking off Heater Core at Intake & Water Pump?
I no longer use my heater core, so I don't need the tube or hoses running from the intake, back to the heater core, and then to the the water pump any more.
So, I put a 1/2" NPT fitting into this hole:
Attachment 27234
And, I put a rubber cap on this water pump tube:
Attachment 27235
The by-pass tube running from the front of the thermostat housing to the other water pump tube is still attached.
Most people say it's ok to do what I did, but a few say not enough water gets to the pump from just the bypass tube before the thermostat opens. I can't understand this, because it's a closed system and once all the air is removed, no more air enters the system - and the water pump is always submerged in water.
Before the T-stat opens, water should flow from the pump, through the timing cover, into the block, into the heads, into the intake, and then through the by-pass hose back to the water pump. It's a limited flow on purpose to allow the engine to warm up quicker.
Then, when the T-stat opens, water will start flowing through the radiator, too.
Has anybody blocked these like I did and is it ok to do?
Thanks!
So, I put a 1/2" NPT fitting into this hole:
Attachment 27234
And, I put a rubber cap on this water pump tube:
Attachment 27235
The by-pass tube running from the front of the thermostat housing to the other water pump tube is still attached.
Most people say it's ok to do what I did, but a few say not enough water gets to the pump from just the bypass tube before the thermostat opens. I can't understand this, because it's a closed system and once all the air is removed, no more air enters the system - and the water pump is always submerged in water.
Before the T-stat opens, water should flow from the pump, through the timing cover, into the block, into the heads, into the intake, and then through the by-pass hose back to the water pump. It's a limited flow on purpose to allow the engine to warm up quicker.
Then, when the T-stat opens, water will start flowing through the radiator, too.
Has anybody blocked these like I did and is it ok to do?
Thanks!
6/1/07, 10:09 PM
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my previous LX had the coolant transfer tubes capped at the ends near the firewall. never had a problem. don't know if the same applies to a carb setup as your posted pic would seem to indicate. otherwise, i've seen guys who removed those tubes and did the same thing w/out issues, though some people use a short section of tube to connect the coolant transfer tubes instead of blocking them off.
6/2/07, 05:17 AM
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Mine used to be EFI and had that metal tube running toward the back to the heater core. Since the heater core had a leak, I looped the end of the tube back to itself. Now that it's carb'd, the water was just running out of the intake, through the tube, and back to the water pump.
I was going to get a 90 degree fitting to put on the intake and run a short tube down to the water pump, but some people said to just cap it. Others say it's not a good idea. Capping them was so easy, and it really cleans it up, but I guess I can go back to a short tube if I have to.
Just looking for more opinions...
I was going to get a 90 degree fitting to put on the intake and run a short tube down to the water pump, but some people said to just cap it. Others say it's not a good idea. Capping them was so easy, and it really cleans it up, but I guess I can go back to a short tube if I have to.
Just looking for more opinions...
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