Rebuilt heads
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Joined: February 22, 2012
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From: Washington
Rebuilt heads
Ey guys I have never had a set of rebuilt heads before so I am just wanting to make sure this is normal. When they were rebuilt had valve job done new seats new guides and cleaned. Now that she is running I can here the lifters operating and when I shut her down I can actually here the oil draining out of the top end. Normal?
Cobra R Member
Joined: December 11, 2011
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From: Mass
This how I do stud mounts
1. pick a cylinder you are going to do the pre-load on, only do one cylinder at a time.
2. rotate the engine clockwise and watch the exhaust valve at the cylinder you are working on. When the exhaust valve begins to open adjust that cylinders intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust: back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a few minturs for teh hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position.
4. Twist the intake push rod while tighten down the rocker arm. when you feel a slight resistance to the tightening of the push rod you are at "zero lash". Turn the adjusting nut down 1/2 to 3/4s of a turn from that point..the intake is now adjusted properally.
5. Continue to turn the engine watching the same intake valve/rocker arm you just adjusted. It will go full open then start to close. when it is almost closed stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder, loosen the adjusting nut on the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same steps has in 3 & 4 .
6. Both valves are adjusted on this cylinder and now you can move on to the next cylinder following the same procedure.
you may gets some valve train noise until the oil pressure stabilizes and the motor heats up to operating temp.
IIRC with solid lifters, you'll have to make sure each lifter is on the base circle of the cam before setting the lash with a feeler gauge between the rocker and valve tip.
1. pick a cylinder you are going to do the pre-load on, only do one cylinder at a time.
2. rotate the engine clockwise and watch the exhaust valve at the cylinder you are working on. When the exhaust valve begins to open adjust that cylinders intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust: back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a few minturs for teh hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position.
4. Twist the intake push rod while tighten down the rocker arm. when you feel a slight resistance to the tightening of the push rod you are at "zero lash". Turn the adjusting nut down 1/2 to 3/4s of a turn from that point..the intake is now adjusted properally.
5. Continue to turn the engine watching the same intake valve/rocker arm you just adjusted. It will go full open then start to close. when it is almost closed stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder, loosen the adjusting nut on the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same steps has in 3 & 4 .
6. Both valves are adjusted on this cylinder and now you can move on to the next cylinder following the same procedure.
you may gets some valve train noise until the oil pressure stabilizes and the motor heats up to operating temp.
IIRC with solid lifters, you'll have to make sure each lifter is on the base circle of the cam before setting the lash with a feeler gauge between the rocker and valve tip.
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Joined: December 14, 2007
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
Turn the adjusting nut down 1/2 to 3/4s of a turn from that point..the intake is now adjusted properally.
IIRC with solid lifters, you'll have to make sure each lifter is on the base circle of the cam before setting the lash with a feeler gauge between the rocker and valve tip.
IIRC with solid lifters, you'll have to make sure each lifter is on the base circle of the cam before setting the lash with a feeler gauge between the rocker and valve tip.
Yes to the solid lifters/feeler gauge at the "heel". You are checking at max clearance there.
A little tappet noise is better than no noise/burnt valves.
Last edited by cdynaco; Jun 7, 2012 at 01:30 PM.
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