I have a 66 with a 289. I read to properly adjust the valves I spin the push rod and tighten until I cannot twist any more then a 1/4 after that. So after that do I turn over the motor and repeat?

 

That's pretty close. Pretty much zero lash and 1/4-1/2 turn. If you do them all like this it will probably take a few revolutions of the crankshaft as the cam lobes go up and down. Tighten till you feel resistance then 1/4-1/2. There's many methods but I've always went with feel. Don't turn the motor more than about 1/4 turn on the crankshaft at a time and check them all each 1/4 turn. Ratchet on the crank bolt and turn it by hand of course. It will take a while also as they will loosen up as the cam lobes turn.

 

Don't you want to make sure that each rocker is at the max clearance (pushrod on the heel of the cam lobe) before you snug + 1/4 turn? That would mean turning the crank several times.
Right? (I'm trying to remember pushrods)

 

Yep that's right. Gonna take a few revolutions before you get them all to zero lash. If you 1/4 turn them all before they are all at zero, then you're just triple working yourself or more.

 

Did early hydraulic SBF's have an adjustable valvetrain or were they always net lash?

Heh, timing light, dwell meter, feeler gauges for a tune up - old school! Glad I was around when you needed those things. Although I never had to use a uni-sync (not that I don't want to but a quick check over Inglese reminds me why a single plane and one carb does just fine).

In the quest for efficiency in the near future you might not even have to change out a thermostat, I was reading about a coolant pump controller that just cycles and varies the speed of an electric pump to keep the engine at optimum temperature.

Of course replacing the pump will be more expensive but probably more convenient as it will be located away from the engine and just secured by a bracket and a coupla hose clamps.

 

The quickest way to set valves is this method......... You'll need the firing order which is(1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8) to do this. You also have to remember that the cylinder arraingment is 1-2-3-4- on the pasinger side and 5-6-7-8 on the drivers side.

Remove the high tension lead and crank the engine till the oil presure is up. This way the lifters are full of oil. Find top dead center on #1 cyl.Back off the adjustment and twist the push rod until it makes contact. Turn 3/4 turn for both vales and #1 is set.

Rotate the engine by hand 90 degrees. The next set of valves to adjust is #5 Repeat the process of 90 degree turns following the firing order.