Will a Holley 600 or Edelbrock carb bolt up to the factory Ford intake manifold? My Dad's 302 still has the factory Autolite that's been rebuilt once already and we're looking for a good all around carb that will bolt right up. Thanks!

 

I have a Edlebrock carb on my 302. A 1406 performer I think. But, we also put an Edlebrock alum intake on it. I think that was because we went from 2 barrel to a 4 barrle carb. Quite a bit better performance!

What year is your Mustang? You only have the 96 listed.

 

It's actually my Dad's Mustang. It's a 1968 California Special. I post up questions for him as we usually work on it together when I'm home. I would love to put a manifold on it, however I don't know that I could get him to bite... we'll see.

 

Hmm, I think that has the 302 V8 that my car has in it.

I'm sure there are plenty of choices for you as far as carbs, and intakes go.....

 

autolite / edelbrock / and holley share the same bolt pattern .. you may have to do some modifying to your choke as i think your stock one has a heat tube coming off the exhaust manifold ..

 

We picked up a Holley 600 yesterday and put it on most of the way last night. We tried to start it up, but had some fuel leakage issues and called it a night.

I addressed the fuel issue today, and went to start it. It fired right up and ran good for about 2 minutes, and then once it seemed to settle down it died. Now it will keep starting with no issues at all, but dies 5-10 seconds after being started. Giving it gas doesn't really help unless you give it a decent amount. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

you may need to adjust the low idle speed .. sounds like it does ok on "choke" fast idle till it warms up then falls too low .... i did`nt offer my opinion on a choice but i prefer edlebrock carbs for non performance applications .. holleys can give such grief but run like hades when kicked

 

why men should write advice columns

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Dear HOSS

I hope you can help me. The other day I set off for work, leaving my husband in the house watching TV. My car stalled and then broke down about a mile down the road, and I had to walk back to get my husband's help. When I got home, I couldn't believe my eyes. He was in our bedroom with the neighbor's daughter!

I am 32, my husband is 34, and the neighbor's daughter is 19. We have been married for 10 years. When I confronted him he broke down and admitted they had been having an affair for the past six months. He won't go to counseling, and I'm afraid I am a wreck and need advice urgently. Can you please help?

Sincerely,

Sheila

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Dear Sheila,

A car stalling after being driven a short distance can be caused by a variety of faults with the engine. Start by checking that there is no debri in the fuel line. If it is clear, check the vacuum pipes and hoses on the intake manifold and also check all grounding wires. If none of these approaches solves the problem, it could be that the fuel pump is faulty causing low delivery pressure to the carb ..
I hope this helps,

HOSS

 

Thanks for the info! I had thought the same thing with the idle so I turned it up, but I had made a mistake with the choke and didn't realize it. This afternoon I corrected my goof on the choke and it started right up again and continued running good, but would not settle down to a good warm idle. I lowered the idle speed back down again, but its a rough idle at about 500 rpm's too high, if I turn it down any lower it dies. Is this something I need to be correcting with the mixture now?

 

LMFAO!!!! That was great!!

 

yes .. you probably can correct it with those adjustments ..

 

Hi,
Are you sure the timing is set correctly? If not, undo the distributor clamp (at the base) and rotate the distributor slightly left or right to get a better idle. Best way to check this is with a vacuum gauge attached to a manifold port. Your best idle timing is found when the vaccum gauge shows 18 to 22 psi of vacuum. This reading depends on how stock your engine is - stock will show the higher reading, hopped-up the lower end. Now you can move on to the carburetor.

Your idle speed in Park/Neutral should ultimately be about 850 rpm when the engine is warmed up.

To get to this speed, first set the idle speed up to about 1300 rpm; and then adjust each idle mixture screw as follows: turn it inward until the engine stumbles, then back it out until the engine settles down and runs smoothly. Do both idle screws this way.

It may take a few tries at this to get used to the process. When you feel you've got the mixture right, back the idle speed down to the desired 850 rpm.
Good luck!

 

I was thinking it could be a timing issue also. Also check for vacuum problems.

 

Thanks for the ideas guys! I know that it hasn't been timed in probably decades. I'm back at school, but I'll be home in a couple months and I'll give these adjustments a shot.

 

Well I'm home for the summer and back to trying to make this thing run...

I isolated a vacuum leak issue and fixed that. Spent some time with the idle and mixture screws and got it running great, or so I thought. Good enough that I took it around the block and out into town to get gas and back with no issues at all. I washed it and when I went to move it back inside it wouldn't go into gear without dying... no worries just turn up the idle a little bit & problem solved. Well I spent the evening clay barring and waxing it, but when I went to move it over to its stall in the garage it would not go into gear without dying. Didn't matter what I did with the mixture or idle speed it wouldn't go into gear

Maybe now that it at least runs again my Dad and I can time it tomorrow like you all have suggested.

Was at least able to snag this pic today while it was running good...