1964-1970 Mustang Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

C4 Leak

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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 02:54 PM
  #1  
Mystang68's Avatar
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C4 Leak

I very frustrated with my C4 and need any advice out there. I can't get my transmission fluid pan to seal. I have tried different types of gaskets, gasket sealant, etc. I then ordered a new pan thinking the old one may be slightly warped and the new pan still leaks.

Anyone dealt with this before/ have any solutions that work to get the pan to seal?
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 03:48 PM
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From: alerbamer
there are a multitude of things just above the pan that can seep down and mimic a gasket leak .. if a new pan did not solve the issue i`d look elsewhere .. try to flatten the bolt holes on your original pan with a hammer .. they can get puckered over the years and not seat flat ....
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 07:23 AM
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From: Iowa
You know what first went through my mind when I saw this title? "C4 Leak"? Yep. mind does. Just like everyone else.

It's possible to get them to seal, but unless I'm losing significant amounts of fluid, I don't sweat it.

HOSS429's advice is sound. Also look at your transmission mating surfaces, rather than the pan. Possible there is a crack or divot in the surface where the pan joins.

BTW, I am assuming you fastened the bolts in the correct order and that they were torqued with a calibrated torque wrench to the proper values?
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 10:54 AM
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They are torqued appropriately, but I didn't realize that there was a specific order to tighten them in.
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by Mystang68
They are torqued appropriately, but I didn't realize that there was a specific order to tighten them in.
I checked, but couldn't find one, but my Dodge had an order. Here's what I found from another forum:



Once you remove the pan, using a ball pen hammer tap down any dimples
that
may be from over tightening previously.

Clean both surfaces very clean and dry. I like to use a little ( dont
over
do it ) RTV red on the pan smeared on with my finger ( be careful not
to
lick your fingers after ) once it has had a chance to setup a bit, set
the
good quality cork/rubber gasket ( like a McCord or FelPro ) gasket onto the
pan.

Start all the bolts, fron a center point out evenly snugup all the bolts.
I
generally do it to a snuf feel with a 1/4 ratchet.
Add the appropriate atf fluid and start, drive and test for
leaks...
basically bring it to operating temperature. recheck the fluid. Drive it for
a day or so and recheck the bolts.
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 05:39 PM
  #6  
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Thanks for the advice.
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 06:59 PM
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by Mystang68
Thanks for the advice.
Believe me, I feel your pain.

I have a policy of oppositional bolt rotation during tightening, as well as accepting a certain amount of leaking as I gradually tighten. I think I avoid over torquing this way.

Hope you are able to figure out the cause and able to fix it.
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 12:04 AM
  #8  
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Yea I would look at transmission lines and dip stick tube and I had a leak where the Neutral safety switch bolts to the transmission

Last edited by mustang-68; Aug 19, 2013 at 12:05 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:46 PM
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From: Tampa, FL
As the others have mentioned, leaks above the pan will cause the fluid to flow down and spread around the pan. I did all the above fixes to the pan: clean, flatten, new gasket, sealant, and proper torquing. Still there was fluid leakage!

Mine was actually caused by a bad O-ring seal around the linkage shaft. I simply used a pick to remove the old one and pressed in a new ring. I also had a leak from the tailshaft and had to replace that seal as well. Now the tranny leaks no more!

But I do have a minor engine leak from the rear main seal! Oh, well.
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