flight96

What are the chances...and this is just a thought...that the base of the new MC is not the same thickness of the original MC and the pushrod from the booster is poking into the MC once bolted on? Could that affect anything? I know I am reaching now ....

05stangkc

I have set Pushrod Length on a Few Cars. Namely he 67 Fairlane. Its Really pretty Easy You Can Feel When the M/C is Actuating By Holding Cylinder Up Against Booster and Having a Helper Gently Push Down on Pedal While You Are Holding and Seeing When M/C Moves Away from Base. You Want about an 1/8 Inch of Play before Cylinder Starts to Move. If it is Too Long From the Git Go You Should Feel Resistance as You gently Push Cylinder Towards Booster. If You Think you have Resistance Shorten Rod Length. Make Sure Lines are Not Hooked Up For Greater Resistance Feel. I Hope I Explained this ok!

Would This Cause the Issue you Are Having, I Don't Know But is Does Need to Be Set Correctly Regardless.

Does Your Setup Look Like Picture in Post 14 With the Metal/Plastic Insert and The Threaded Pushrod Nut at the End???

Mgb,

KC

flight96

Yes, it looks like that

05stangkc

Okay So Proper things are There! Should Be Simple Matter to Adjust Unless Rod at Shortest Setting is Too Long! Trial Fit is All you Can Do!

Mgb,

KC

05stangkc

Did You Get M/C Part Number I Suggested for Car or Other and if So What Brand & Part Number Did you Get??

Mgb,

Kc

flight96

I'll have a look when I get home... I should be able to tell by just slightly unbolting the MC to see if there is any pressure on it or not... Can't hurt to try...

Also, I think there should be a simple way to check the distribution block/Prop valve to see if it is pushing fluid back into the MC...
1- Disconnect the line that goes from the rear chamber of the MC to the dist block
2 - Plug that connection at the MC
3 - Press the brake pedal and see if fluid comes out that line from the block. If there is, then I know the distribution block/Prop valve in NFG. Fluid should only travel one way.

Thoughts??

05stangkc

All you Can Do Plug Away One Step at a Time. Here is the Weird Thing with these Early Disc Brake Setups. That External Cylinder Residual Check valve Which its Purpose is To Maintain a Small Amount of Pressure on the Disc Brakes So They Don't Retract While You Driving and Causing a Soft Pedal Was Gone After 69 and They Put That into the M/C itself.

I Have always Been Suspect on Some Rebuilt or Service Master Cylinders Being Built With that Valve in The Cylinder and Then The Car Has the Other Residual Check valve as well and Causing Issues. I Would certainly Think if That External Valve Went Bad it Could also Reek Havoc. Just an FYI. It's Why I Asked Which Cylinder You Got So I Could Cross Reference it.

I Feel Your Frustration, I fought That Fairlane Tooth & Nail & Got it To Work But Was Never Happy with it! Daughter Handled Well. Car is Now in The Retired Need to Fix Stuff to Sell Stage. Along with a Dozen + Other Cars My Health Keeps Holding Up!

Keep Plugging.

Mgb,

KC