1964-1970 Mustang Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

1969 grande parts

Old Nov 12, 2013 | 06:15 PM
  #21  
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Ok guys I need some help once again haha so I got the mini high torque starter but it still slow to start when it's hot, any one have any other ideas? Should I take off the long tubes and put shorties?
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 05:02 AM
  #22  
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From: alerbamer
my posts in # 12 and 14 are my best sugestions .. you mite also make sure your battery cables are as big as you can get ,, and make sure you have a ground cable going from the motor to the body .. i dont think the heat from the headers is an issue although you can fabricate a starter shield or find a factory type one in the wrecking yard and put it on ...
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 08:11 AM
  #23  
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I do have a ground from the motor to the body and how do I tell then thickness of the wire? And which size do I need? Thank you for the help
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 10:06 AM
  #24  
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From: alerbamer
i dont know wire sizes by gauge but you should have wires at least 1/2 inch thick ..( round ).. iv`e seen vehicles with too small of cables that the cable would actually move when trying to start the car ...jerking from restistance ..
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 10:35 AM
  #25  
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Wow definitely don't want that haha I'll check that out this week when I go to put the heat blanket for the starter, it was only 20 so I figured it was worth the try.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:19 PM
  #26  
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I've also seen header tape that you wrap your headers in to help keep the heat in, it supposedly works very well and might be easier/cheaper, but probably wouldn't look as good.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:44 PM
  #27  
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Ya I've seen that too, but I imagine the black one wouldn't look too bad, that would just be a pain in the *** to do though because is have to take the headers off and squeeze them back in there haha I'm hoping that the heat blanket works and then I'm going to cross off options from there
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 05:37 PM
  #28  
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my old high compression 429 was always tough on starters...I had a 396 chevy that was similar, way I fixed it, was recurved the distributor- heavy weight/lite springs would pull about 10 degrees at idle, second springs/weights did the normal- retarding timing makes it easier to spin- any advance will try to kickback- tight timing chain and all...like mentioned a couple posts up, killing the coil it should crank easily hot- if not its heat soaked starter...

only way around kicking back, and the chug/chug/chug cranking is kill coil until cranking a sec, or retard timing to near 0... or lower the compression/monster starter/cables/batteries...ideally if a ford can be recurved like a chevy(chevy weights are up top- super easy to mess with) to pull about 10 degrees at idle/0 when off, it makes a lot easier starting hot...
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 05:45 PM
  #29  
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Hmm gotcha, would a bigger battery help as well? I have a 868 cca in there now and I was thinking that all the cranking the previous owner did with the old starter probably put a load on the battery, would a 1150 cca do the trick?
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 04:47 AM
  #30  
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From: alerbamer
when it does give you the hard start symptoms try to jump it off .. see if two batterys will start it easier .. i had to run two in my 460 Tbird .. and they were in the trunk ...did`nt hurt a thing for the 7 years i drove it ..
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #31  
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Boy I can't catch any luck with the restoration, today as I went to get in it to go get some time at the shop, the brakes went out. I barely was able to come back around the neighborhood and stop it. I'm thinking that it's the master cylinder or the wheel cylinder, any thoughts? Oh and she has disks up in the front and a 9 inch rear end with drums in the back
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