New Owner of a '12 302!
2/4/16, 01:56 AM
#22
2/25/16, 11:11 PM
#26
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Quick question for you guys: looking into a getting a set of 18x10 wheels. Forged one piece for a smoking deal. Offset is 42 for both front and rear and was wondering what would be the best tire size to run?
pic of said wheel
pic of said wheel
Last edited by 12Boss302; 2/25/16 at 11:25 PM.
2/26/16, 06:49 AM
#27
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Location: Rowlett, TX
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Made the switch from German vehicles to a lightly used '12 Boss with 15k miles! Don't know too much about it just yet but loving it so far. Coming from mostly all turbo cars, its a breath of free air having a big V8. Always loved modding my cars so I am open to any suggestions that you guys feel I should do. Did order some Roush axle-backs the other day because I didn't want anything too crazy loud as my previous GTI was straight piped and I don't miss the drone whatsoever. Lookin into some possible suspension work as well as shifter upgrade in the near future. Will post some pics of the red beauty when I can upload them. looking forward to learning from you guys about how awesome this car can be!
I had the 3rd abd 4th gear synchros replaced along with the shift forks.
I have a steeda shifter, blowfish bracket, steel braided clutch line, exedy mach 500 clutch and flywheel.
For power im on a aed flex fuel tune. With intake, off road quad h pipe, roush axle back.
Suspension consists of frpp boss springs, rear lower control arms, (needed relocation brackets after the springs, lower control arms were way off causing traction issues) adjustable panhard bar, roush rear upper control arm, 275/35 fronts 285/35 rears
Only cosmetic is gt500 deck spoiler
Love it. Drives amazing. Sooo freaking loud. It breaks necks
2/26/16, 01:08 PM
#28
Shelby GT500 Member
The offset should be different for the front and the rear. I forget what a +42 offset does to the wheel as my front tires on the LS are 19x9 with a +42 offset while my rear wheels are 19x10 +47 offset. You also have to be careful with the wheel design because it might not clear the Brembos.
For 10" wheels I think the widest I would go for optimum performance is 305. You can fit bigger but I think that is the largest I would go.
For 10" wheels I think the widest I would go for optimum performance is 305. You can fit bigger but I think that is the largest I would go.
3/27/16, 07:34 PM
#29
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Had some time to finally work on the car this past week and got some small things done. Went with a cat delete from Jegs and a custom tune by a guy named Carl from Dynojet. Put down about 405whp and 377wtq. Also scooped up a pair of OEM GT500 wheels from a local guy for an amazing price! Made a little video with my cam idle as well as showing off the new wheels. Lemme know what you guys think!
3/27/16, 08:35 PM
#30
2013 RR Boss 302 #2342
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Sounds good! 
4/5/16, 09:38 PM
#33
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So I decided that I wanted to stay NA with the car instead of forced induction. Ive been reading a lot on how people just really love our cars with having just straight motor and bolt ons so I began slowly building it. Ordered the Cobra Jet setup with the intake manifold, monoblade TB, and the CAI. Will be installing hopefully next week when the parts come in so that I can get it properly tuned as well. More than likely will be going with the MGW shifter as well as with some LCA (thoughts on brands?) so make limit wheel hop. Suspension and LTH will have to wait another month or so so that I don't go crazy with blowing money on the thing all in one go!
4/29/16, 07:43 AM
#34
GT Member
I think you're going to have to get a tune with the CJ Setup. You definitely will with LTH.
I went with almost all BMR on my suspension mods. LCAs (adjustable), UCA (Adjustable), Watts Link, K-Member, tubular A-Arms and others. The car ride mighty stiff. MM CC Plates and FPRR T lowering springs with Koni Yellows polish up the package. My goal was to keep the car grounded on the road course.
To Keep TracKey I went with Kook Shorties, Airaid PJ CF CAI, Kooks Boss sidepipes, Bolra OA and ATAKs, MRT H pipes and QTP Cutouts. None required a tune.
I highly recommend the BMR components as they work as advertised and fit my 3-4 HPDE track days a summer habit well. You could spend more on other brands but I wouldn't bother unless you start really racing.
I went with almost all BMR on my suspension mods. LCAs (adjustable), UCA (Adjustable), Watts Link, K-Member, tubular A-Arms and others. The car ride mighty stiff. MM CC Plates and FPRR T lowering springs with Koni Yellows polish up the package. My goal was to keep the car grounded on the road course.
To Keep TracKey I went with Kook Shorties, Airaid PJ CF CAI, Kooks Boss sidepipes, Bolra OA and ATAKs, MRT H pipes and QTP Cutouts. None required a tune.
I highly recommend the BMR components as they work as advertised and fit my 3-4 HPDE track days a summer habit well. You could spend more on other brands but I wouldn't bother unless you start really racing.
4/30/16, 11:38 AM
#35
GT Member
If you are going to drag race or track I suggest replacing the clutch with a Spec or McLeod.
These along with an MGW will eliminate lockout at the rev limit.
Worked for me.
These along with an MGW will eliminate lockout at the rev limit.
Worked for me.
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