Gabe

I sometimes have to use the MAX setting, but my Focus is the same way ... once I'm comfortable I shut that part off but I may still leave the re-circulate part on ... these 95-degree days aren't that much fun, but once on the highway I usually put the windows down and leave the AC on at low fan speed and just the standard AC setting, no re-circ, no MAX

Ethanjbeau

Its gonna be a hot one today! Already 85 on the north shore. Black mustang + black seats = death

FordService

Hey jtmears,

You should bring it in to your dealer and get it checked out. Your Service Manager is in the best position to look into this for you. He can check into any warranty, assistance, recalls, or Customer Satisfaction Programs that may apply to your vehicle. Let me know the outcome.

Please make sure to bring this up to your dealer as soon as possible and make sure to contact Ford Canada at 1-800-565-3673, Fenderaddict2. Let me know the outcome.

Deysha

jtmears

Thanks Deysha. I plan to go to the dealer if I can't fix it easily. Just grasping at straws since it's Mustang Week, and HOT, and I don't want to be that guy cruising the strip in the GM


Does anyone know where the WOT cutoff relay is? Apparently these cars have one. I've checked the fuses that are under the hood and in the passenger kick panel. underthe hood there's also a relay #43 "AC Compressor relay" is that the WOT cutoff?

FordService

No problem, jtmears.

Deysha

chrissycat

Hi Deysha,
We just had the ac go out in our '11 mustang gt @ 42k. It seems pretty obvious that there's a problem w/the ac units in these models. We live in Santa Cruz, Ca, USA, and all the dealership wants is our $$, no help. Ford needs to do a recall it seems.

raging56

Add another mustang to the list. I have 36,900 miles and they won't touch it. quoted $1,100 parts and labor. I'm going to attempt a fix myself after I do more research. so close to being fully covered...sucks.

kylerohde

Try a different dealer and/or call Ford customer service; that is way too close to warranty for it not to be at least partially covered.

Gabe

All of you that have these failures so close after the warranty expiration,
IF you are regular customers at the dealership you bought the car at,
you really need to ask for "after-warranty-assistance",
or P18 coverage, as Ford and the dealers call it.

Ford gives their dealers an amount of money that the dealer can use pretty much
as they like, to help out certain customers.
I can't see a customer that bought there and services there, NOT get help.

FordService

Welcome to the forum, chrissycat! You guys should always speak with the service manager at your Ford Dealer. He is in the best position to provide available options and/or coverage for any work needed. Also, remember repairs done at a Ford Dealer come with a 24 months/unlimited miles warranty.

I’m happy to get this documented for you in your files. You’re welcome PM me with your VIN, dealer, mileage, full name, and beast daytime number.

Deysha

benni302

Annnnnd, add another to the list.....2011 Mustang GT w 69k on the clock, got 72k bumper to bumper warranty, and the A/C just went out this afternoon; Looked at the compressor clutch and you can see debris coming from the front...bearing?

Krohn

Oh! I forgot to add this!
July 25th-ish, LAST YEAR, the original condenser cracked after the other parts were replaced.
Twice in one summer!!? These cars are driven in Texas. Note that Flatrock.

My wife looked at me and said, so what are we getting rid of this car for?
Got it fixed and then bought another Mustang (in warranty).

I really do want a Mustang... but if the A/C goes out on this one too, I most likely will NOT be buying Ford again.

ksquared

I finally had to use my air conditioner here in wisconsin and it went out. Blowing hot air. AC clutch does not engage. 30,200 miles. Stored winters 2010 mustang gt. The 3 years was up in sept of last year. Argg this sounds like a chronic problem.

kt06pony

This is the second time my AC had gone out. I bought my '06 Mustang in '07. At about 40k miles, it started blowing out warm-ish air. I chalked it up to it being black-on-black and sitting all day in the hot sun. Not so. I bought the extended warranty from Carmax when I bought the car. They replaced the compressor. Now with 68k miles, it's out again. Now there's no warranty left. I see $$ in my future, and I'm not happy. I love my car and want to keep it forever, but not if I have to dump money into it. I've had caliper issues, too, so it's not been a problem-free car. Still love her, though.

benni302

Just got our 2011 GT back from he dealer after repairs; $1000 dollars worth of repairs, basically replacing the compressor, covered under our 72k mile extended warranty with $100 deductible. I'm happy we purchased the extended warranty but disappointed that this is the 2nd repair, in addition to the rear end, on a 3 year old car. As much as we love Mustangs, we're gonna have a hard time buying another one after these issues.

FastRedPonyCar

LOL add me to the list now. Passenger side was blowing cool, drivers side blowing hot.

I took it in with only 26K miles on my car and they said it was out of freon. They re-charged it with UV dye added and discovered the leak from the compressor.

Car is 1 month out of warranty (3 years) but they said they were going to cut me some slack on the cost of it so I'm looking at $1100 total.

If it happens again, I'm going to vacuum the coolant out with my mechanic who I've worked with on our old volvos (175k miles on that AC compressor and it still blows arctic air in your face btw) and replace the compressor myself.

88lx50

1100 dollars doesn't sound like they cut you much slack. If it was just a straight up leak there was no need to replace anything but the compressor and the receiver dryer, and evacuate and recharge. Being generous, I am going to say that is 500 dollars in parts plus the freon and labor. Not sure what the labor rate at a Ford dealer is, but I can't see the labor being more then a few hours.
If the compressor had seized and metal and garbage went through the system, 1100 dollars would have been cutting you some slack.

70monte

This is the reason I learned how to do most AC repairs myself. They are charging crazy amounts of money for fixing these things.


Back in 2006, my fiancée was going to start driving the other 92 cavalier I own which the AC didn't work. Like you guys, I got quotes around of $1,000 to fix but the car wasn't even worth that much. My fiancée made me a deal and said she would buy the equipment and parts to fix it if I did the work.


I did research online, bought a couple of books and went to some auto AC forums and learned what I needed to learn. I think she spent about $600 on equipment and parts and I replaced what I needed to, evacuated and recharged and the AC still works great to this day.


Since that day, I have repaired the AC systems on my daily driver 92 cavalier, my two 98 chevy trucks and four other vehicles for family and friends.


AC repair is really not that hard. Most shops charge so much money for this because most people have no clue on what to do. All you have to be is a little mechanically inclined to replace actual AC components and the evacuation and recharge part is not hard at all. A lot of parts store will loan out equipment like the vacuum pump and gauges if you don't want to buy them.


To give you an example, on both of my 98 chevy trucks, I replaced everything in the AC system except the evaporator and only spent about $450 in parts for each truck. I replaced the compressor, condenser, both set of AC lines, the accumulator, orifice tube and all O-rings.


The electrical part of the AC system is the only thing I don't usually mess with unless it's simple like a switch or sensor.


Wayne

88lx50

Wayne - I did the same thing. I bought gauges, a vacuum pump, and do it myself. Usually no need to get the system evacuated either as I am usually chasing down a leak.

70monte

I shouldn't have used the word evacuated since I don't have a machine for that. I meant to say vacuum down the system. If the system still has any refrigerant in it, I take it somewhere for them to evacuate it. If I'm working on someone else's car, I tell them the system needs to be empty when I come to work on it and leave it at that. I won't vent any remaining refrigerant into the air myself as that can be a huge fine if caught.


As far as equipment, I have quite a bit. I have two sets of Robinair gauges, one for R134a and the other for R12. I have a Robinair 6cfm vaccume pump, a Mastercool refrigerant scale for the 30lb tanks, orifice tube removal kit, various O-ring kits, digital vent thermometer, and some stuff called Nylog that I put on the threads and O-rings to help lubricate and help prevent leaks. I also have three 30lb tanks of R134a and one mostly full 50lb tank of R12.


Wayne