trackpack13gt

I would like to lower my mustang about an inch to an inch and a half. I don't want to splash out on a full suspension package yet. If I go ahead with lowering springs what other parts are required?

houtex

1.5" and lower drop will usually result in bad camber measurements up front. So you will want to get camber adjust plates, if not caster-camber plates, which will replace your upper strut mount, to correct the camber. (Caster is usually fine, but...) You *could* go with a camber bolt, and some have mixed results, seems, but for that amount the plate is the better choice. Pick a good set of plates is all. That is, unless you just like eating front tires on the inside shoulders and replacing them a lot.

In the back, the 1.5" drop may or may not result in a pinion angle that can cause problems for the pinon bearing and seal. So you will want to have that adjusted and fixed. This is typically done with an adjustable set of upper and/or lower control arms. It *MAY NOT* be needed, however, so it is best to check and then get the parts if required.

It is also possible that you might want to get lower control arm relocation brackets, because it might change how the axle and LCAs work on take off, and cause loss of traction.

The drop in the back on the S197 will result in the axle being pushed out to the left side because of the panhard bar. You will want to get an adustable panhard bar to fix that and recenter the axle.

Further, the drop is severe enough that the stock dampers are not going to cut it. *boing boing boing* like a rabbit over bumps. You should invest in a decent set of shocks and struts to replace the stock ones. Koni Orange or Yellows, Bilstein HDs, Eibach... make sure they're for lowered Mustangs, or adjustable for your needs.

The drop will likely induce some bumpsteer. So a bumpsteer kit may be needed. These are just sort of fancy outer tie rod ends, but they fix the geometry of the steering so that bumps or acceleration do not steer the car, and you remain in control.

And the final piece... you've done all that... finish it off with the sway bar upgrades. I mean, you've lowered it, it will hook, and it will drive on rails... so get the lean outta it.

That should be it. You can find most or even possibly all that in a kit too, or piece it together if you want.

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Now then... I've done the 1" around, and so some of that up there *isn't*... well maybe isn't... required. 1.5", though, I'm thinking is.

The 1" drop will be springs. And in some cases... that may be all. 1" isn't all that much, for a lot of Mustangs, so you might squeak by with just getting Ford Ps or similar 1" springs.

However, it is my recommendation, due to my experience with the 1" drop, that you get upgraded, made for lowered cars shocks and struts. In my case, the stockers just don't like the 1" drop at all, bounces like described above over speed bumps and other bumps in the road. However, that's my car, an '06. Your Mustang may be ok with it, or more correctly, you'll be ok with it. I've been riding around on my bouncy car for about half a year or so... but that ends soon. Ordered the Koni Oranges

And it also in my case induced a little acceleration bumpsteer to the left, so I'm going to get the whiteline kit to fix it. A little disappointed, sure, but it was a chance to happen in my case.

My camber, initially, was not out of spec. It was barely in spec. So I didn't get camber plates. I got the GT500 mounts for my car, though, and while the camber is in spec... it could use improvement. So when my Koni Oranges come in, I'll be doing the 180 trick and see what happens.

As my old LCA bushings were wore out, the front ball joints were making noise, and I had some wheelhop, I did go ahead and replace my old lower control arms and front arms with the GT500 fronts and the BMR hammertone poly-poly LCAs, and man, what a difference in hook up on take off. I also have the adjustable panhard bar, and I did need a slight bit of adjustment when it was all said and done on the axle, but I probably could have just as easily not got it.

So what I'm saying is that in the case of a *1" drop* or less (there are .75" springs), you may not need the panhard bar, camber plates, bumpsteer kit, and/or any lower or upper control arms on the axle, or relocation brackets for the LCAs. It may be that you just put in springs (and/or shocks), get the toe fixed, and off ya go.

The only way to know is to do it and see what happens, in a 1" or less drop.

Now... bear in mind that you can just do springs... and the car will still drive. It just might drive a little different. And you can measure things on alignment so you know what needs improvement adjustment wise. And then you go drive it and figure out what it needs driving/ride comfort wise.

You can then gather the next step(s) and put them on. Unless the car is *severely* out of whack, it will be drivable and not tear itself apart. Although in the case of alignment of the front wheel's camber, you want to get that right fast to ensure you don't eat the tires.

But other than that just drive careful until you get used to the car's new driving feels, and then hurry up and fix the issues. Or put it back stock until you can try again, either. Heh.

Money pits, these cars..

Hope that helps, good luck, and have fun!

lakeguy77

Another misguided recommendation to get camber plates. Please stop suggesting that. Camber plates are for track stars. For street cars, they are pointless. Here's what you ACTUALLY need:

new Shocks/struts (05-10 style, cheaper than 11-14 style)
GT500 strut mounts (Less than 1/3 the price of camber plates, only works with 05-10 dampers)
Panhard bar (to correct the rear axle shift)

For a 1" drop, install the GT500 mounts as per the instructions. Your alignment will get into the factory range. For a 1.5" drop, install them in reverse (arrows pointing in) and you'll be WELL within the factory alignment range. And you'll have saved $300 in the process.

Mr. V

I think both of the above posters make good points. I wouldn't say cc plates are always needed. Our cars don't all seem to be the same. There are small differences in all of them. Most folks seem to be able to get within spec by using the arrows in trick on the gt500 mounts. There have been some that it has not worked for. This is a very small number by comparison. I opted for the cc plates because I'm usually the one in a million with that lousy luck. I didn't want to have to pull it apart twice.

Another example you'll see is some folks have said they did not need the panhard bar. Their axle was still centered even after lowering.

I guess the point I'm making is you can save money if you do these steps one at a time and see where your car is. You can try the gt500 mounts and you'll probably be good. Wait for the panhard bar and measure after you are lower. You may not need it. Full disclosure, I bought all of that stuff because I just wanted it done once and I didn't want to fiddle with it. Lazy costs money.

shouldhavegottheGT

Honestly if you just want to lower your car you can just get the springs. Are all the other parts that everyone listed required? The short answer is no. Most of these parts are recommended. New shocks, struts, mounts, lcas, panhard bar, etc.

If you have newer shocks and struts you can get away with keeping the stock ones. If there are quite a few miles on your car, might as well upgrade them since you have to take everything out anyhow. Same goes with the mounts, stock works but the gt500 are way better.

Everything else you can piece together as your budget allows. Panhard, LCAs, UCAs.

houtex

"Misguided"?

I stand by my post. And I have my experience to back it up. I am not saying anyone else isn't correct, I am being thorough is all, and only because of my experience and learning having done 'just minimums.'

After lowering Awesome with JUST the Ford P springs, which are 1" all 'round, (and as it happens also having to replace both front control arms and the rear lower control arms, but that should be 98% unrelated) I am finding that while she's overall a much improved handling car, and due to the LCAs hooks up better, the car is not as pleasant to drive or go over bumps.

She bounces like a rabbit. And speed bumps are more horrible things than ever. Especially up front, but yes, even the back is more lively than it should be. Perhaps it's part of how the springs ride, but I'm also of the understanding that the stock shocks/struts just aren't up to a dropped car in the first place. So the Koni's are going in soon as the rears get here, and that can't happen fast enough. One more week.

And the bumpsteer is happening. I tried to deny it but it's there. Bumpsteer kit, 3-4 weeks out at this rate.

And my inner tire shoulders are showing more wear than they should. That's camber, and while it's JUST in spec... I want it out. At the least, hopefully, the 180 spin on the GT500 mounts I got will fix it. If not, then camber bolts, but they get such a bad rap that I'm **** near convinced the camber plates are the way to go period.

*Not everyone* will have my experience, I will grant. But... I did a mild drop. I can't even imagine a 1.5" or more drop would be anything better, for sure.

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At the end of the day, though, as I said... Throw the springs in and see. You will, like me, find out what the rest of the story will be for your car/situation and have to deal with it.

/There. How's that for 'misguided'?

lakeguy77

Misguided because some people say you "need" them. On a street car with set-and-(mostly)-forget alignment specs? Nope. You don't NEED them. In most cases, with a mild drop, reversing the GT500 mounts gets you in the ballpark.

For those rare cases that it doesn't work, there's absolutely NOTHING wrong with camber bolts. Just don't buy them on Ebay. Get a name brand. I've run Eibach camber bolts on several cars, including one autocross build. Never had a problem. No shifting, no breakage, nothing. If you're breaking a quality camber bolt, you've probably damaged something else too.

Dampers can be subjective, but the back end of the track pack cars are so underdamped as it is, I'd contend that even a stock-spring TP car could benefit from shocks. But again, subjective.

By the same token as the camber bolt issue, most cars will need to have the rear adjusted with a panhard bar when you lower. Not all, but the majority will.

So if you're doing springs, I recommend dampers and a panhard bar. Camber plates, UCA, hell even the GT500's are optional, though doing the GT500's give you a beefier mount that give you the option of just unbolting and rotating it if you're not quite where you need to be.

Cavero

A lot of people forget about bumpstops too...





you can either saw them down or get Eibach bumpstops