Coyote5-0

http://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-springs-0513gt.html They're on sale right now guys!

According to the specs, its a 1.5 inch drop. I measured the height before and recorded it, but haven't measured it since the drop. I'm not sure if it was actually 1.5'' or not.

And as far as the shocks, I'll probably do that down the road. The strut mount on the passenger side exploded everywhere and I tried to clean the ***** off as best as I could, but some dirt got in there and I'm sure I'll be replacing that soon. So when that time comes, I'll go ahead and get all new shocks and strut mounts.

SMBJoshy

If you notice that with the base 17" wheels, that's because the tires they use are 1" bigger in diameter than the 255/40/19 tires. I just went the from base 17 wheels to the brembo wheels yesterday, and noticed the bigger gap right away.

GBStang13

Hey buddy, the car looks very nice! I also bought a set of SR performance springs and GT500 mounts and ready to install them right now!

Did you also get an adjustable panhard bar?

Coyote5-0

I never bought an adjustable panhard rod. I did my own measurements and it looked pretty centered, and when I took it in to get aligned, the thrust angle was almost perfect and well within Ford's spec, so I never bothered getting one.

I really do like the springs still. Only issue is I have some slight noise from the front when going over large bumps. I'm pretty sure its because I didnt put the lower rubber sleeve all the way down on the coil springs. Towards the end of the summer, I lifted the car and forced that sleeve down as far as I could and it took a lot of the noise away. Who knows

rob.james.arias

I would make a gentleman's bet your strut mounts are the culprit for the noise. I too had the "exploding" strut mouth when I did mine. I took it apart a few days later, cleaned and repacked the bearings and the noise went away for a few weeks. Then it came back...

Ordered new strut mounts from late model restoration (best price I could find) and replaced the strut mounts. Not a creak, crunch, click or groan now.

Coyote5-0

I have suspected this as well! I'll have to get new ones when I upgrade shocks.

GBStang13

Thanks for the prompt response man, I cant wait to drop the car this weekend. Did you do it your self or had a shop do it? I am debating where to rent the spring compressor tool, NAPA, AutoZone, Oriely...

I just got off call with AM - and yeah they suggest the Panhard Bar - but I will take your advice on that. Another thing to know is, the noise you might be hearing is a common issue with the factory GT/V6 Strut mounts. If bearings fly out its and indicator usually. Pickup a set of GT500 mounts and you will be set!

I got 27K miles on my ride and hope that the lowering of the car wont damage my factory Dampeners to quick. Couple of years before I can afford adjustable Shock Struts..

Coyote5-0

I'd buy the spring compressor and do it yourself, its quite easy (especially the rear) and can be done in a day. Places like Autozone let you borrow the tool and you get your deposit back when you return it.

Just be careful with fronts and really make sure the spring is compressed a LOT. I was being careful and thought I had the spring compressed enough, but the first one still blew off. You have to really compress them. Although if you're replacing the mounts, its not a big deal (just watch your head if they fly off)

GBStang13

Sweet, thanks for the advice. I am thinking of getting the rear first out of the way. I mean this is my 3rd Stang. I own a 97, and had a 2001 and this 2013 is no different.

I figured id jack up the car, then put i on stands right behind the LCA's... or on the sub frames there... Then use the jack with rubber/wood under the pumkin. While the car is on stands i can compress the axle, remove the struts from the bottom and then slowly lower until the springs are decompressed is this good?

Coyote5-0

That's pretty much how I did it. I can't remember exactly where I put the jack stands on the rear...somewhere on the frame with rubber jack stand pads. But yeah, you can lift the car by the differential (I used a wood block too). You can slowly lower the the axle and the springs come out pretty easy. American Muscle has a good write up about it online.

GBStang13

Sweet! Thanks for the response, and how about the front?

Jack stands under the k-member or on the frame? Also where did you get those rubber pads for your jack stands?

I was thinking of lifting the car and either using right where the A arm connects at the frame ( behind it obviously ) and or on the frame rails, or on the jack areas?

Then i assume take of tire, disconnect brake bolts etc... support the wheel with something so the spindle is not hanging and then unbolt the top?


Once removed use spring compressor and then compress/ unwind the nut on top and then remove the mounts, spring -then re-mount?

Anyhow I am hearing mixed results about but cant confirm if our cars will have a problem with the 1.5" drop and alignment. Anyway you cam confirm that your alignment is dead on? I hear stories that GT500 mounts + SR Springs might cause us to have bad alignment...

Almost better off putting new Struts and Shocks while at it...

GBStang13

Is this also correct? In order to run SR Springs, and GT500 Mounts we need Koni Struts and Shocks for 05-10 on 2011-2014 cars? If i was not running GT500 mounts then I wouldn't be able to run SR Springs?

GBStang13

FYI if anyone needs it - All values are in ft-lb

Front Suspension
Caliper anchor plate bolts - 98
Brake disc shield bolts – 15
Brake line bracket nut– 15
Lower ball joint nut – 76
Lower control arm forward and rearward bolt – 129
Strut rod nut – 46
Strut-to-spindle bolts – 148
Strut upper mount nuts – 26
Wheel hub nut – 221
Stabilizer bar bracket nut - 52
Stabilizer bar link nuts - 85
Wheel speed sensor bolt - 11
Tie-rod end nuts - 59
Steering gear bolts - 85

Rear Suspension
Rear shock absorber upper nut - 30
Rear shock absorber lower nut - 85
Lower arm-to-body bolt - 129
Brake caliper anchor plate bolts – 76
Lower arm-to-axle bolt – 129
Panhard rod-to-body mount bolt – 129
Panhard rod-to-axle bolt – 129
Lateral stiffener bar-to-body mount nut - 85
Lateral stiffener bar-to-body bolts – 46
Stabilizer bar bracket nuts - 52
Stabilizer bar link bolts - 85
Parking brake cable bracket-to-lower arm – 20
Upper control arm front bolt - 129
Upper control arm rear bolts - 85
Upper control arm bushing nut – 129
Fuel tank strap bolt – 38
Brake hose bracket bolt - 15

All torque specs.

Stevedotmil

I've been looking for this info for a while. Thanks for posting this.

GBStang13

Anytime buddy, thanks to some fellas in the StangNet Forum too. Yeah man!

Coyote5-0

My thrust angle was within spec, but the car did need to be aligned as far as toe and caster I believe. Camber isn't adjustable unless you get those plates. You will still need to take the car somewhere to get aligned

GBStang13

Well i am stuck. Just took the whole car apart today. Did it in two steps. Rear was done under 2 hrs... Just like any other stang I owned... The axle did go at least 1/4" if I guess.. So adjustable Panhard bar is required... Also the GT500 mounts will not work with my factory 2013 struts and shocks...

Quick question did you use the compressor and did you have any issues with setting them back up?

jp1seattle

I'd just reuse the stock ones until you can get new struts. Or just leave it apart and next day air some 05-10 struts.

Coyote5-0

spring compressor?? Yes, you MUST use one. I don't know how you could do it without one and with hurting yourself lol