2006 GT 4.6L codes P0018 & P0022 fixed
12/20/14, 06:21 PM
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2006 GT 4.6L codes P0018 & P0022 fixed
The other evening my car abruptly started running very roughly, especially at idle, and making a horrible racket. I thought something catastrophic had happened to the engine.
I pulled codes P0018: Ford - Crankshaft Position Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor 'A'
and P0022, indicating: P0022 Ford - Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over-Retarded Bank 2
The local dealer's quote was $98 to diagnose the problem (looking at oil pressure, cam phasers, etc), and then a further charge for fixing the problem.
A Google search revealed that the most likely culprit was a faulty VCT solenoid on the driver's side. As I needed it immediately, I paid around $85 for the OEM solenoid and seal, though I understand you can get them somewhat cheaper online.
What bothered me in my searching was that there was significant confusion about whether or not you had to take the valve covers and timing assemblies off. Some sites said yes, some said no, and I watched two videos of the procedure being done on an F-150, one of which took hours, the other of which took minutes.
I looked at my particular engine and it sure seemed like I would have access to it, so I went ahead and tried my luck.
You will need:
1. VCT solenoid
2. A new seal (not strictly necessary but cheap and means you don't have to be so careful getting the old one out)
3. A couple of flat bladed screwdrivers
4. Some needle nose or other pliers (can be locking if you wish)
5. A T27 (yes, twenty seven) Torx screwdriver or bit. I highly recommend a one piece screwdriver. You can use a bit, but be absolutely certain you tape the bit and any other loose parts of your assembly (i.e. socket extension), as if you drop anything in there, you'll convert a 15 minute job into one taking several hours.
6. A deep socket that fits inside the lip of the seal, I used 1 1/8" but 24-27 mm would work. It just needs to be deep so you don't smack the electrical connection on the new solenoid when you press the seal in.
Stepwise:
1. I found it easier to access the VCT solenoid by moving the air filter / hose assembly towards the middle of the engine. You don't have to - it just made it easier for me.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness in the usual fashion by depressing the locking clip and pulling.
3. The hardest part about this is getting the seal out, as they can be quite stuck. I used some spray penetrating oil around the edges of the seal, and then used flat bladed screwdrivers at the notched areas on the valve cover to slowly work the seal up. It took a while and was quite frustrating at times but it did come up. I was happy that I had a new one, though if I absolutely had to I could have used the old one.
4. Using your T27 tool (I had a T27 handled screwdriver that I bought as part of a kit for $8), undo the Torx screw holding the VCT solenoid down. I will repeat - if you use something with parts that can drop down into the engine, MAKE SURE YOU TAPE OR OTHERWISE SECURE THEM FROM INADVERTENTLY DROPPING IN THE ENGINE. The screw is locked into the assembly so it cannot drop into the engine. Pull the VCT solenoid straight out.
5. My VCT solenoid had a couple of damaged screens, if you look carefully you'll probably see some that are normal (they look like the screens on house crawlspaces to me) and some that are missing.
6. Lightly coat the new VCT solenoid with clean oil, and push it straight in, screwing it down tight with your T27 tool.
7. Take your seal (hopefully new) and lightly coat the edge with clean engine oil. Press it down with your fingers to start seating it. Then use your deep socket and a hammer to fully seat it.
8. Move the airbox back and reconnect it if you disconnected the electrical connection there.
9. Clear the codes.
Start it up, and if you're lucky like me, that fixes the problem and now that I've driven it, I think mine might have been close to failing for a period of time as the engine is much smoother than it was before. The entire process took around 20 minutes (I think most people could do it in 10) and I did not have to remove the valve cover.
There are of course other reasons why you could get those codes, but it seemed from my reading the VCT solenoid was the most common cause. Anyway, hope that helps someone out there.
I pulled codes P0018: Ford - Crankshaft Position Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor 'A'
and P0022, indicating: P0022 Ford - Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over-Retarded Bank 2
The local dealer's quote was $98 to diagnose the problem (looking at oil pressure, cam phasers, etc), and then a further charge for fixing the problem.
A Google search revealed that the most likely culprit was a faulty VCT solenoid on the driver's side. As I needed it immediately, I paid around $85 for the OEM solenoid and seal, though I understand you can get them somewhat cheaper online.
What bothered me in my searching was that there was significant confusion about whether or not you had to take the valve covers and timing assemblies off. Some sites said yes, some said no, and I watched two videos of the procedure being done on an F-150, one of which took hours, the other of which took minutes.
I looked at my particular engine and it sure seemed like I would have access to it, so I went ahead and tried my luck.
You will need:
1. VCT solenoid
2. A new seal (not strictly necessary but cheap and means you don't have to be so careful getting the old one out)
3. A couple of flat bladed screwdrivers
4. Some needle nose or other pliers (can be locking if you wish)
5. A T27 (yes, twenty seven) Torx screwdriver or bit. I highly recommend a one piece screwdriver. You can use a bit, but be absolutely certain you tape the bit and any other loose parts of your assembly (i.e. socket extension), as if you drop anything in there, you'll convert a 15 minute job into one taking several hours.
6. A deep socket that fits inside the lip of the seal, I used 1 1/8" but 24-27 mm would work. It just needs to be deep so you don't smack the electrical connection on the new solenoid when you press the seal in.
Stepwise:
1. I found it easier to access the VCT solenoid by moving the air filter / hose assembly towards the middle of the engine. You don't have to - it just made it easier for me.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness in the usual fashion by depressing the locking clip and pulling.
3. The hardest part about this is getting the seal out, as they can be quite stuck. I used some spray penetrating oil around the edges of the seal, and then used flat bladed screwdrivers at the notched areas on the valve cover to slowly work the seal up. It took a while and was quite frustrating at times but it did come up. I was happy that I had a new one, though if I absolutely had to I could have used the old one.
4. Using your T27 tool (I had a T27 handled screwdriver that I bought as part of a kit for $8), undo the Torx screw holding the VCT solenoid down. I will repeat - if you use something with parts that can drop down into the engine, MAKE SURE YOU TAPE OR OTHERWISE SECURE THEM FROM INADVERTENTLY DROPPING IN THE ENGINE. The screw is locked into the assembly so it cannot drop into the engine. Pull the VCT solenoid straight out.
5. My VCT solenoid had a couple of damaged screens, if you look carefully you'll probably see some that are normal (they look like the screens on house crawlspaces to me) and some that are missing.
6. Lightly coat the new VCT solenoid with clean oil, and push it straight in, screwing it down tight with your T27 tool.
7. Take your seal (hopefully new) and lightly coat the edge with clean engine oil. Press it down with your fingers to start seating it. Then use your deep socket and a hammer to fully seat it.
8. Move the airbox back and reconnect it if you disconnected the electrical connection there.
9. Clear the codes.
Start it up, and if you're lucky like me, that fixes the problem and now that I've driven it, I think mine might have been close to failing for a period of time as the engine is much smoother than it was before. The entire process took around 20 minutes (I think most people could do it in 10) and I did not have to remove the valve cover.
There are of course other reasons why you could get those codes, but it seemed from my reading the VCT solenoid was the most common cause. Anyway, hope that helps someone out there.
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