I made the decision to swap out my Shaker 500 head unit with the latest Alpine DVD unit and also add a rear camera and a shift light. I wanted to be able to switch on/off the TR-7 video bypass, rear camera, and the Raptor shift light. I could have opted for some cheap toggles (which would've looked tacky), but instead found an awesome looking switch plate made by Speed of Sound.
I ordered the 4 toggle switch layout with a 2 1/16" gauge opening for no particular reason other than I really like this layout. I chose an Auto Meter Ultra-Lite II Voltmeter gauge and it fit the bill perfectly.

The SOS switch plate comes pre-wired with leads for easy connections. According to SOS, the switches and wires are sufficient for low-amperage (up to 15 amps maximum) applications. Any high-amperage applications will require heavier gauge wiring and relays.

Each switch has 3 prongs and typically get wired this way:
BLACK: Connected to common vehicle ground (used to illuminate the switch's LED)
RED (center): Connected to either a constant 12V or switched 12V depending on your application
RED (opposite end on black): Connected to accessory circuit 12V in (In my case, Positive lead on Raptor, rear camera, and voltmeter)

Note: The Negative leads off the accessories get grounded to a common ground, NOT TO THE NEGATIVE LEAD ON THE SWITCH!


Switch panel





Auto Meter gauge



A Dremel was used to make a small hole in the bottom of the rear cup holder (after removal of the short cup base; pulls right out) to feed all the wires up to the switch panel.



My mess



The wiring can get a bit confusing so it may be a good idea to tape off each accessory and label it. Key here is to take your time and do one wire at a time.
Tip: To make soldering, heat shrinking, or wire twisting task easier, disconnect the spade terminal from the switch.





Each switch controls the Raptor shift light, rear camera, DVD video bypass, and the voltmeter.

Here are some pics and one video of the completed project.

Note: The reason why you don't see the DVD's LED switch illuminated is because the video bypass circuit that the switch interrupts is less than 12V (or is momentary). I removed the Negative terminal off this switch since it isn't needed.

 

That's cool!

Good job!

 

I like this mod Bill, I like it a lot!

Of course I would have gone with black anodized but that’s a personal problem I have

Taking vacation must have been brutal for you not being able to knock out all these mods you have done since returning.......................

 

Thanks! I really like this functionality of this switch panel.


I was on the fence between the brushed and black finish myself. Remember the poll I threw up a few weeks back? Just about everyone except for Leo voted for the brushed look in my interior, so since I liked both finishes, I went with the opinion of the masses.

I was mentally preparing myself for this mod while I was in HI.

 

Thats awsome Bill!

 

Oh no doubt you were, I figured you were visualizing these mods the whole time, the TB mind just tick, tick, tick, tick..................................falli ng asleep to them..................

 

Makes me want to dump my fox body and get an S197 just so I can get one of those!

Great write up, Bill. We appreciate the time and effort to not only install our product, but also document and share the process with the rest of the Mustang community.

 

Can you offer a TMS group buy discount?

 

Well never think about mods when you are HI!

I couldn't do that mod because I would have no place for my coffee.

As always Bill another great write up. I waiting for SOS to come out with a dual dash pod.

 

If you glance at our site, you'll see we offer a solution that allows coffee.

The dash pod project we're working on is going to be triple gauge unit, not a dual. Sorry. We feel two gauges just doesn't quite fill the center dash as nicely.

 

I'm sure weather it's 2, 3 or 4 Alan, it will be very nice!