78 Mustang ii, new member hello, and 1 question
2/7/11, 09:32 AM
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78 Mustang ii, new member hello, and 1 question
Hey hi 
... just joined up. I live in Salt Lake, UT. I have to confess I'm not a hardcore Ford guy, I LOVE many cars from different brands. Ordered a 2010 but had to let it go 1 week before receiving it because I bought a house, couldn't afford both 
.
My daughter just turned 16, so I put a little II back together for her, no car show winner, just something to look good.
Here's the backyard "rebuild".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syZuc3uX8JU
... just joined up. I live in Salt Lake, UT. I have to confess I'm not a hardcore Ford guy, I LOVE many cars from different brands. Ordered a 2010 but had to let it go 1 week before receiving it because I bought a house, couldn't afford both .My daughter just turned 16, so I put a little II back together for her, no car show winner, just something to look good.
Here's the backyard "rebuild".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syZuc3uX8JU
2/7/11, 09:46 AM
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So here's my question, 
I rebuilt the 2.3L bottom end 30 over, installed the old tired heads, new 2BB carb, and all new gaskets. I had 16" of vacuum steady, with the timing set at 12 @1,000 RPM. Not too high but bear in mind that Salt Lake is 4,200 ft high, 1" per 1,000ft loss. Spraying starter fluid all around the carb base, and intake manifold, I couldn't find a leak. I also blocked the EGR port with a plate, and removed the AIR pump, blocked the exaust manifold port.
I bought a set of 2.3L heads from Marshall Engines to replace the gunked up original heads. Engine sounds healthier, feels less sluggish on the go, but now I have only 13" steady on the manifold gauge, and that's with the timing at 15. Again checked for leaks and couldn't find any.
You know I lined up the timing marks on the timing metal timing cover for TDC, and the Cam sprocket timing mark with the one of the plastic timing backplate.
Since I'm pretty sure I don't have a vac leak, is it possible that I might be one tooth off on my cam sprocket? Is there a way to check without ripping the engine open again to check that both int/exhaust valves are closed when the sprocket is at the timing pointer?
And lastly, with BOTH heads I have this clak clak clak coming from the front of the engine, like a noisy lifter, I eard it's normal on those 2.3 .... is it?
I rebuilt the 2.3L bottom end 30 over, installed the old tired heads, new 2BB carb, and all new gaskets. I had 16" of vacuum steady, with the timing set at 12 @1,000 RPM. Not too high but bear in mind that Salt Lake is 4,200 ft high, 1" per 1,000ft loss. Spraying starter fluid all around the carb base, and intake manifold, I couldn't find a leak. I also blocked the EGR port with a plate, and removed the AIR pump, blocked the exaust manifold port.
I bought a set of 2.3L heads from Marshall Engines to replace the gunked up original heads. Engine sounds healthier, feels less sluggish on the go, but now I have only 13" steady on the manifold gauge, and that's with the timing at 15. Again checked for leaks and couldn't find any.
You know I lined up the timing marks on the timing metal timing cover for TDC, and the Cam sprocket timing mark with the one of the plastic timing backplate.
Since I'm pretty sure I don't have a vac leak, is it possible that I might be one tooth off on my cam sprocket? Is there a way to check without ripping the engine open again to check that both int/exhaust valves are closed when the sprocket is at the timing pointer?
And lastly, with BOTH heads I have this clak clak clak coming from the front of the engine, like a noisy lifter, I eard it's normal on those 2.3 .... is it?
2/7/11, 11:50 AM
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I've been around 2.3's for a lot of years, still own a 400HP Turbo version in my Ranger.
Timing my be a bit advanced at 15, as normal is 10 and 'we' (hardcore Turbo guys) occasionally bumped it to 12.
I'm not sure about the clack noise, but I'll run down some possibles:
Tensioner pulley, I've had one and seen more than a few lose the bearing. If the belt is incorrectly tensioned you can get some 'slap' as the cam rotates. With the belt off and rotating the cam the valves closing will jerk the cam. That's also not a roller cam (introduced on the Rangers in '88 I think) and those were notorious for eating followers.
Did the heads come with a cam? Check the front bearing journal for wear which would allow the cam to jump up and down. How about lifters? You may have a bad one.
Aux shaft, especially in cold climates can bend or twist due to cold oil and high oil pressure at startup. This will also destroy the distributor drive gear (ask me how I know). This front bearing could also be worn.
Timing belt check - put the balancer on the timing mark at zero, pull the plastic timing cover and check the pointer. If it's on, you're good.
That's all I can think of for now.
Mine:
Timing my be a bit advanced at 15, as normal is 10 and 'we' (hardcore Turbo guys) occasionally bumped it to 12.
I'm not sure about the clack noise, but I'll run down some possibles:
Tensioner pulley, I've had one and seen more than a few lose the bearing. If the belt is incorrectly tensioned you can get some 'slap' as the cam rotates. With the belt off and rotating the cam the valves closing will jerk the cam. That's also not a roller cam (introduced on the Rangers in '88 I think) and those were notorious for eating followers.
Did the heads come with a cam? Check the front bearing journal for wear which would allow the cam to jump up and down. How about lifters? You may have a bad one.
Aux shaft, especially in cold climates can bend or twist due to cold oil and high oil pressure at startup. This will also destroy the distributor drive gear (ask me how I know). This front bearing could also be worn.
Timing belt check - put the balancer on the timing mark at zero, pull the plastic timing cover and check the pointer. If it's on, you're good.
That's all I can think of for now.
Mine:
2/7/11, 12:15 PM
#5
Legacy TMS Member
Timing belt check - put the balancer on the timing mark at zero, pull the plastic timing cover and check the pointer. If it's on, you're good
From Fred's post /\ /\
I would make sure number one piston is on the compression stroke when lining up the timing marks. Then also check the dist to make sure the rotor is pointing to number one plug wire.
Last but not least Welcome to TMS. glad to have ya here!
From Fred's post /\ /\
I would make sure number one piston is on the compression stroke when lining up the timing marks. Then also check the dist to make sure the rotor is pointing to number one plug wire.
Last but not least Welcome to TMS. glad to have ya here!
2/7/11, 06:10 PM
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I've been around 2.3's for a lot of years, still own a 400HP Turbo version in my Ranger.
Timing my be a bit advanced at 15, as normal is 10 and 'we' (hardcore Turbo guys) occasionally bumped it to 12.
I'm not sure about the clack noise, but I'll run down some possibles:
Tensioner pulley, I've had one and seen more than a few lose the bearing. If the belt is incorrectly tensioned you can get some 'slap' as the cam rotates. With the belt off and rotating the cam the valves closing will jerk the cam. That's also not a roller cam (introduced on the Rangers in '88 I think) and those were notorious for eating followers.
Did the heads come with a cam? Check the front bearing journal for wear which would allow the cam to jump up and down. How about lifters? You may have a bad one.
Aux shaft, especially in cold climates can bend or twist due to cold oil and high oil pressure at startup. This will also destroy the distributor drive gear (ask me how I know). This front bearing could also be worn.
Timing belt check - put the balancer on the timing mark at zero, pull the plastic timing cover and check the pointer. If it's on, you're good.
That's all I can think of for now.
Timing my be a bit advanced at 15, as normal is 10 and 'we' (hardcore Turbo guys) occasionally bumped it to 12.
I'm not sure about the clack noise, but I'll run down some possibles:
Tensioner pulley, I've had one and seen more than a few lose the bearing. If the belt is incorrectly tensioned you can get some 'slap' as the cam rotates. With the belt off and rotating the cam the valves closing will jerk the cam. That's also not a roller cam (introduced on the Rangers in '88 I think) and those were notorious for eating followers.
Did the heads come with a cam? Check the front bearing journal for wear which would allow the cam to jump up and down. How about lifters? You may have a bad one.
Aux shaft, especially in cold climates can bend or twist due to cold oil and high oil pressure at startup. This will also destroy the distributor drive gear (ask me how I know). This front bearing could also be worn.
Timing belt check - put the balancer on the timing mark at zero, pull the plastic timing cover and check the pointer. If it's on, you're good.
That's all I can think of for now.
The new heads came with new everything and new cam already installed. Those timing pointers ... not too sure about them u know, those covers are pretty worn out. When I lined up all the marks, the belt was "right between 2 teeth" on the cam, so I picked one.
Here's my battle plan, I bought a dial gauge, I'm going to remove the valve cover and stick the gauge on the intake valve stem. Put my cilynder at TDC, and will match it with when the intake valve is as high as possible, then put my belt on.
Other the claking sound, didn't think of the aux shaft. Aux shaft has new bearings but I re-used the old shaft. The distributor is new. I'll check this week end on the shaft, see how that run.
What u think of my Valve/dial battle plan?
2/7/11, 07:45 PM
#8
Legacy TMS Member
I had to come in and say:
NICE II!
And a most excellent and entertaining build video! It was very fun watching you restore this little gem for your girl!
Oh, and this: Want
NICE II!
And a most excellent and entertaining build video! It was very fun watching you restore this little gem for your girl!
Oh, and this: Want
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