I know this topic has probably been beat to death but im curious as to what alot of you guys use. Ive always been a stickler for Mobil One. When I do my 1st oil change at 1,000 miles I will most likely go back with Mobil One but ive also heard ALOT of good things about Amsoil, is it as good or better than Mobil One? I would also try Ford Synthetic but im not sure they even make it or not?

 

I've been using Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend.

 

Is it full synthetic and where can I get it? Wally World?

 

It's not full synthetic. It's just the stuff recommended in the owners manual. I get it at any auto parts store.

 

Motorcraft Full Synthetic Motor Oil XO-5W20-QFS

 

I might check the price on the full synthetic compared to Mobil One...

 

I have to guess there isn't enough difference in price to make the choice easy. For my part on all my new Mustangs. I've had the dealer go to Motorcraft Full Synthetic at first (1,000-mile) oil and filter change, and continued that selection at subsequent service visits, every 5,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first. Ridiculously over-cautious, true, but it makes me feel good.

 

Your probably right, it just makes me wonder who makes that oil for Ford. Im gonna change out at 1,000 and then at 5,000. Im like when you when it comes to being cautious about oil changes.

 

Currently, in my '06 GT, I'm using Castrol GTX Magnatec 5w-20. Seems to be ok with it. For no reason than I switched from my old oil change place to the new one, and that's what they have. And then, after doing the clutch (and while there a new main seal, which means removal of seal plate, then the polishing of the crank, which means that as try as one might, you need to swap out the oil that's in the pan because things(tm)) it happened to be on sale so I got another 6 quarts and changed it.

I find the oil question always interesting. Basically, oil is oil. Oh, I'm sure there's this or that better kind for this or that reason, but my cars tend to just keep on going if the oil is regularly changed. I wind up putting easily 100,000 on every one of them and when they were retired, it was because I just wanted out of them or there was a hint of something bad happening soon... or someone stole it at beat it up, that one time... but not the engine. Never the engines. They always, *always* ran and were just fine, no oil related anything involved.

And all because I did factory recommended oil and changes. Even at the quick change places. Which I do because I just don't want to deal with the oil disposal. Bad enough I'm kinda forced to do it for the motorcycle.

For what any of that diatribe is worth. That's what I'm running, that's what I'm doin', and so far so good, many many years later. *literally knocking on wood*

/TL;DR: Change your oil as recommended, use recommended oil types, things should be just fine and dandy. Just make sure there's oil in the engine of course...

 

I use Royal Purple HPR 5w-20 and a K&N oil filter. Change my oil every 5,000 miles or every year, which ever comes first.

 

I change mine at 5,000 mile intervals as well.

 

Don't over think this oil thing. Go to Walmart, buy the two 5 quart jugs of the semi synthetic 5-20W Motorcraft oil, a Motorcraft filter FL -500,and save the receipt for possible warranty concerns . I changed my oil and filter at 220 miles with metallic grit in the drain pan. I repeated the oil and filter at 600 miles and had much less metallic grit in the drain pan, and will be doing the third change at 2000 miles. Safe cheap motor insurance on a brand new motor. The filters do not catch all of the crud. Also pick up two additional plastic drain plugs at the dealer in case you wreck one. These are cheap at about $3.50 each.

 

This is a very different conversation than what was being had after I bought my '06. I think around that time, everyone was suggesting to ditch Motorcraft and put in Royal Purple.

I stuck with Motorcraft. I figured if that's what Ford suggests, it would be their problem if it caused issues to the engine.

 

There is no more simpler answer than to "follow the owners manual". Any old 5w-20 and the proper filter will be sufficient. I use Royal Purple HPR because that's what I want to use and am willing to spend the extra money to do so. For the love of god and country just remember to change it as the manufacturer recommends and all will be well.

 

Mobil 1 and an OEM Motorcraft filter

 

Mobil 1 Extended Performance, at Wally World for about $27/5 quarts, seems like the "best value" to me. I doubt any oil gets a whole lot "better" than that and the price is reasonable. I believe it is a Group IV synthetic base stock which is a "true true synthetic."

I always use the bigger 820 filter. If you compare that to the 500 filter, the 500 looks kinda puny. I guess it probably doesn't matter if you change it regularly but the extra filter media in the bigger filter seems like a good thing.

Those filters with the nut on them seem like a great idea, until you try to remove one and find out that the nut is huge, bigger than any wrench or socket that is included in any normal wrench or socket set. Even my biggest adjustable won't fit that stupid thing; I think it is 1" or 1-1/8" . . . I don't know why they had to make that thing so big, so that you have to go out and buy a special wrench or socket to fit it; pretty sure a smaller nut in a common size like 3/4 or 7/8 would have worked just fine.

 

Speaking of that nut....does that hole in it go straight through? If so, a small screwdriver could be inserted through it to provide leverage to loosen/tighten without an oil filter wrench.

 

I tried one of those filters on my Triumph Motorcycle, and I found the opposite. There wasn't enough of the nut protruding out. I could put my box end of the wrench over it, but any force applied to it, and it would slip right off. Couldn't get any amount of leverage on it. Just ended up using channel locks on it, just like I have for every other oil filter.

That tiny hole that goes through the nut? It's only big enough for that safety wire to go through it. Not sure I'd have a screwdriver that small. If I did, it wouldn't withstand using it as a lever.

 

For those who don't know, since we're talkin' about it...

Small strap wrench for motorcycle filter

Medium strap wrench for car filter.

And don't use it to put the filter on! Finger tight then one 'grunt' more, done.

Do NOT forget to remove the old oil filter seal from the engine before you put on the new one.

Do NOT forget to run a bit of oil (used or new) on the seal before installing new filter.

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As far as the convo regarding bigger oil filter... If your oil doesn't show metal in it, then the filter's working fine. The bigger oil filter may even be detrimental as it may change pressure, volume, etc. Use with caution.

 

I would make a couple of guesses:

WRT the bigger filter: There might be an infinitesimal cooling advantage in surface area and any extra oil it might hold, but only if you are careful to add the extra oil.

A BIG nut on the big filter will spread stresses over more area, and lessen any tendency for the filter to tear upon wrenching it. And filters have proven surprisingly delicate when poked at or subjected to wrinkling force.