I have installed the whiteline watts link and for those that have as well were you able to get both left and right arms perfectly parallel? My right is completely 100% perfect but my left is downward sloping by 2 degrees.

My mechanic says the only way to make the left perfect is lower the watts which we can't since its already on the lowest setting or raising the left end of the car which obviously we can't do that either.

So any help would be appreciated.

Also if anyone besides me has installed their UCA I get a whirrling turbine kind of sound above 10mph. It's very faint and in the background kind of like white noise. Or almost even kind of like how twin turbos sound like. But its definitely a moving part because when I get to 10 mph it starts to slow down and at 8mph its gone completely.

Someone told me it might be the driveshaft making this sound. Anyways I have a 13 gt500 so I have the carbon fiber drive shaft and my pinion angle it set to 0 degrees since we couldn't adjust it past that. I am not sure what the stock pinion angle is. If anyone knows that, that would be appreciated.

 

congrats on the install man! post some pics of it

 

Edit: Just noticed this was before everyting was tightened down. I'll have to check it again.

 

I checked mine with an angle finder at ride height and there's 1 degree difference between the two sides with both bars slopping upwards towards the pivot slightly.

 

Ah I see so you couldn't get it perfect either. Yes my mechanic told me if we were to shift it up then the bottom would be only 1 degree off but then the top from being perfect would also be 1 degree off. So maybe for symmetrical purposes its better they are both 1 degree off rather than perfect and 2 degrees off? lol.

I wish someone from whiteline would chime in about it. This is not right.

 

I can tell you what they will say "it doesn't matter". The center pivot position is not there to get the arms straight it is there to alter the roll center. Altering the roll center will change the handling; inducing more or less over steer. Just like the NASCAR guys do when they come in for a track bar adjustment.

 

^thats what my mechanic said lol. So yes my roll center is perfect I am perfectly neutral unlike some people who when they lower are about 1/4 or 1/8 inch off but then how do I get the arms perfectly parallel? lol

Steeda,griggs, and even fays are all capable of getting them perfectly parallel for precise and even handling since that is the whole point of the watts link is for symmetrical turning left and right.

So I guess the only way to be truly symmetrical is if I'm 1 degree off on both sides like the person above me? Rather than be 2 degrees off on the left arm and perfect on the right arm?

 

The way it works the arms don't have to be parallel for the diff to stay centered as it travels up and down. And if it does move it is going to move side to side less than with a panhard bar. And some slight movement does not affect the handling.

 

Is anybody really happy with this linkage? I'm conaiderin getting it but I'm not sure. Is their a considerable upgrade from the whiteline panhard bar and panhard bar brace? Doesn't it add much NVH?

 

From everything I've read, it's the best option out there so far. Yes, you'll have some NVH but that's to be expected. You don't need a watts link if your car is strictly a DD. If it'll see track time then yes, I'd opt for it. This is what I'll be going with myself.

 

Yeah. NVH isn't so much a big deal. My car is a DD. but it also sees some track time. But at the moment my suspension is stock and it performs well.... For stock. But it leaves alot to be improved on.

 

13 Shelby, everything turn out alright with the UCA? I know you were gonna give it a couple weeks after you called me.
For you guys considering getting anything Whiteline just let me know, I offer a pretty good discount to all forum members. Anyways the company is speaking for itself, their product is top notch and used it on my 2011 GT. Will be doing the same to the Shelby when I go get it. I can't say enough good things about this company and the great experience I've had with them.
The NVH on these Watts links are pretty minimal, the most NVH I've seen has been the UCA and even those have minimal NVH. Whoever picks one up will be very pleased.

 

I haven't noticed any NVH with the WL watts link. My Eibach rear sway bar would not fit with the WL watts link so I bought a WL front and rear sway bar on cyber Monday. No NVH from those either.

 

Oh crap I forgot to message you about that lol. My mechanic has been super busy and he's taking it all apart again thursday. Though now we think the clunking sound is from my driveshaft due to the backlash being off and not the watts or UCA. Also we think this may be causing my gear whine as well that I get at some speeds so he's going to check all that. Though like I said before with the watts it seems impossible to get both arms perfectly 100% parallel. The whirrling sound I hear we found out is from the differential so either the watts is transmitting more differential noise or the UCA is. When we took out my rear seats the noise was LOUD AS HELL then.

I also have been getting a whistling sound sometimes at higher speeds when slowing down which kinda sounds like I have a gap somewhere and air is hissing through something but I dont know what that could be from. This sound came after the install of the mods.

The squeaking from the watts link that was there after the first 100 miles is back again but not nearly as loud as before. But it definitely squeaks when I go over speeds bumps or anytime my car drops. Mostly it squeaks when going slowly over bumps. When he reinstalls it and regreases it we will see what happens but that squeak is pretty **** annoying. It makes this car sound like a 10k rice rocket. Though it is a different kind of squeak than before which was squeaking from the grease working in so probably something is loose I'm guessing.

Though the watts and UCA are working very nicely hopefully all this will be sorted out.

But I'll definitely remember to update you as soon as we get everything sorted. We may even have to put in new gears because I'm pretty sure nothing can be done with my current gears since I have 4700 miles on them now.