Wheel hop
Depends. The Lower Control Arm swap to a stiffer kind and better bushings may be all that you need. A very simple swap, just two bolts each, but does require crawling around the car and supporting the axle whilst doing that.
The Upper control arm swap is a more arduous task, in that it requires crawling into the interior for some of it, and is cramped space. Some procedures even ask you loosen or even drop the fuel tank to deal with it, while others say it can be done without the tank moving, but have fun with it, it's *cramped* in there.
The UCA is indicated *after* the LCA swap, or of course, if the bushing is worn out, but depending on your lowering (if any) the UCA might be required. Or maybe you'd just feel better or want it all to match. Your call, of course.
And if you lowered the car, then your axle pinion angle might need correcting, so either LCA relocation brackets are in order, or adjustable LCAs and/or UCAs are needed. As well as an adjustable panhard bar to correct the axle's push out to the driver's side from the lowering.
Probably a bit of overkill on the subject you specifically asked for.
LCAs for sure, man. The kit you talk about should do it fine too, but whether the UCA is needed or not is a question, and is dependent on a lot of other factors, as well as what you experience after doing the LCAs at minimum.
The Upper control arm swap is a more arduous task, in that it requires crawling into the interior for some of it, and is cramped space. Some procedures even ask you loosen or even drop the fuel tank to deal with it, while others say it can be done without the tank moving, but have fun with it, it's *cramped* in there.
The UCA is indicated *after* the LCA swap, or of course, if the bushing is worn out, but depending on your lowering (if any) the UCA might be required. Or maybe you'd just feel better or want it all to match. Your call, of course.
And if you lowered the car, then your axle pinion angle might need correcting, so either LCA relocation brackets are in order, or adjustable LCAs and/or UCAs are needed. As well as an adjustable panhard bar to correct the axle's push out to the driver's side from the lowering.
Probably a bit of overkill on the subject you specifically asked for.
LCAs for sure, man. The kit you talk about should do it fine too, but whether the UCA is needed or not is a question, and is dependent on a lot of other factors, as well as what you experience after doing the LCAs at minimum.
Last edited by houtex; May 31, 2014 at 09:14 AM.
I'm not sure what year or model you have but my 2011 3.7 was having wheel hop issues thats until I installed a pair of LCA's. I purchased a set of J&M non adjustable LCA's from American Muscle for $ 100 and they have eliminated my wheel hop. I'm real happy with them and the price was great. I didn't opt for the adjustable ones because I have no intention or interest in lowering my pony.
Any good aftermarket LCA with urethane bushings will work. It all depends on which brand you like and what your intentions are with the car, evryone has their preference. I just ordered a bunch of Steeda parts to lower my GT including their billet LCA and ADJ UCA to help eliminate my wheel hop. There are ones that are cheaper than Steeda's but I like their parts.
Any good aftermarket LCA with urethane bushings will work. It all depends on which brand you like and what your intentions are with the car, evryone has their preference. I just ordered a bunch of Steeda parts to lower my GT including their billet LCA and ADJ UCA to help eliminate my wheel hop. There are ones that are cheaper than Steeda's but I like their parts.
I do like Steeda parts and one can't go wrong. To the OP, if your wheel hop is not solved with a pair of aftermarket LCA's then look for an aftermarket UCA but many times the LCA will solve the wheel hop issue.
I'm not sure what year or model you have but my 2011 3.7 was having wheel hop issues thats until I installed a pair of LCA's. I purchased a set of J&M non adjustable LCA's from American Muscle for $ 100 and they have eliminated my wheel hop. I'm real happy with them and the price was great. I didn't opt for the adjustable ones because I have no intention or interest in lowering my pony.
I could be wrong but I believe the roush lcas are billet but still use rubber not urethane. From my research, the change to urethane is the what gives the most benefit. I went to a billet lca because of appearance. Like many have said, any of the major manufacturers make a good product. I, like many others, didn't need the uca. After the lca and relo brackets I would sometimes get some hop. I added the steeda 3 point brace and have none now. I believe that am has a similar brace made by different company. Lol, I'm boycotting and no longer recommending the equipment i own. Call Jay at hypermotive. I've heard great stuff about bmr.
Well, you have far more power than I have so I'm not sure if the same J&M LCA's would work as well for you. Of course I don't have a Gt so I don't want to give you any wrong information about what would be best for your Gt model. Lol.
It seemed based on customer reviews and research the J&M LCA's got excellent reviews and were good quality.
It seemed based on customer reviews and research the J&M LCA's got excellent reviews and were good quality.
As far as LCA's goes, there's also several quality brands to choose from. I prefer to use either adjustable LCA's or non-adjustable LCA's with LCA relocation brackets. Either is very useful to retain the factory suspension geometry if the ride height is lowered.
If you have more questions about your suspension or anything else, please don't hesitate to hit me up. I'm here to help!
Shane
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