Suspension gurus, are lca relo brackets bad for auto-x/HPDEs?
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Suspension gurus, are lca relo brackets bad for auto-x/HPDEs?
I ask because while grabbing a set of LCAs from Metco, I planned on grabbing a set of their relo brackets but found this bit of info on their relocation bracket page.
"These brackets are recommended for vehicles used primarily in drag race applications, and are generally not recommended for vehicles used exclusively in street applications or vehicles used for autocrossing or road racing. As anti-squat is increased, anti-dive characteristics will increase and some vehicles may experience instability during hard, high-speed braking."
This made sense to me so I installed the LCAs without the brackets. I don't plan on dragging the car but do participate in HPDEs.
What are your thoughts on the above statement considering the general advice on the forums is if you're lowered, relo brackets are needed regardless of the cars intended use?
"These brackets are recommended for vehicles used primarily in drag race applications, and are generally not recommended for vehicles used exclusively in street applications or vehicles used for autocrossing or road racing. As anti-squat is increased, anti-dive characteristics will increase and some vehicles may experience instability during hard, high-speed braking."
This made sense to me so I installed the LCAs without the brackets. I don't plan on dragging the car but do participate in HPDEs.
What are your thoughts on the above statement considering the general advice on the forums is if you're lowered, relo brackets are needed regardless of the cars intended use?
#3
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You know a lot of people do say you need the relow brackets with a lowered car. But there are tons of lowered cars out there that don't use them and run out just fine. I had a set on my car but couldn't tell the difference between having them on and not having them on.... so I don't use them.
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While I am no expert, I believe this is related to how you set your relos. I set mine to be as close to parallel as possible. The angle you get from lowering without them creates a slight loss of traction. If you set it the opposite way, it would give you an increase that would benefit drag racers. Parallel would be best for daily and road courses.
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While I am no expert, I believe this is related to how you set your relos. I set mine to be as close to parallel as possible. The angle you get from lowering without them creates a slight loss of traction. If you set it the opposite way, it would give you an increase that would benefit drag racers. Parallel would be best for daily and road courses.
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I asked this same question, in a different way, and never got an answer, so apparently it is not something people consider or maybe the Relo brackets are worthless?
#9
This is really more of a car-by-car issue I believe, it has to do with how much traction you need in the rear. There are some very fast Mustang track cars that use the Relocation Brackets (including Kenny Brown's car, which I think is the fastest right now) and ones that do not. Depends on how your entire suspension is set up, as well as how much power you are putting down, as well as your driving style somewhat.
I see that you're using Eibach Sportlines, which go pretty low, so likely they would help with your rear traction.
I would try it without the brackets and see if you have problems putting power down, if so then add the brackets and tune accordingly.
I see that you're using Eibach Sportlines, which go pretty low, so likely they would help with your rear traction.
I would try it without the brackets and see if you have problems putting power down, if so then add the brackets and tune accordingly.
#11
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While I am no expert, I believe this is related to how you set your relos. I set mine to be as close to parallel as possible. The angle you get from lowering without them creates a slight loss of traction. If you set it the opposite way, it would give you an increase that would benefit drag racers. Parallel would be best for daily and road courses.
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