SR Performance Lowering Springs
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
SR Performance Lowering Springs
I have a 2012 V6. I have ordered the SR Performance Lowering Springs and didn't see that the website AM that they work when used with the sed in combination with
Ford Racing M-18183-C upper strut mounts $108.99
M-18000-A dampers $579.97
I then read all of the comments and most of them say that they are using all stock on the 2012 models. I called American Muscle and the person on the phone just looked up the part online and just said it might work. He wasn't any help at all.
I am confused as heck now.
On another note I ordered the kit and only go half of it. The strut bar got cancelled and never shipped. They American Muscle never contacted me. So now I am really frustrated.
Ford Racing M-18183-C upper strut mounts $108.99
M-18000-A dampers $579.97
I then read all of the comments and most of them say that they are using all stock on the 2012 models. I called American Muscle and the person on the phone just looked up the part online and just said it might work. He wasn't any help at all.
I am confused as heck now.
On another note I ordered the kit and only go half of it. The strut bar got cancelled and never shipped. They American Muscle never contacted me. So now I am really frustrated.
Mach 1 Member
Joined: August 2, 2013
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
From: Frederick, MD
Ok. Well you don't need that to install them, but if you ordered it, you should still have it, so that's a shame. On another note, do you plan on doing shocks/struts or just springs? It's definitely gonna ride harder with just installing springs. I have the SR's myself.
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
For now. I fortunately have a client with a shop and they will be installing them. I wanted to do the springs now and then the shocks/struts later. I am not a mechanic. I was thinking of at least ordering the strut mounts. I have read that there could be noise when these are not installed using any lowering spring.
UPDATE: I got a refund of $124.99 for the strut tower brace. I requested someone call but they haven't yet. Talking to them today seemed like American Muscle had a bunch of temps on the phones.
UPDATE: I got a refund of $124.99 for the strut tower brace. I requested someone call but they haven't yet. Talking to them today seemed like American Muscle had a bunch of temps on the phones.
Last edited by bjbsav; Jul 22, 2014 at 01:52 PM.
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: May 6, 2012
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 0
From: Crofton MD
For now. I fortunately have a client with a shop and they will be installing them. I wanted to do the springs now and then the shocks/struts later. I am not a mechanic. I was thinking of at least ordering the strut mounts. I have read that there could be noise when these are not installed using any lowering spring.
UPDATE: I got a refund of $124.99 for the strut tower brace. I requested someone call but they haven't yet. Talking to them today seemed like American Muscle had a bunch of temps on the phones.
UPDATE: I got a refund of $124.99 for the strut tower brace. I requested someone call but they haven't yet. Talking to them today seemed like American Muscle had a bunch of temps on the phones.
GTR Member
Joined: February 18, 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 1
From: S.E. Texas
They normally recommend the GT500 strut mounts, the GT are the same as the V6.
But, if you use the GT500 mounts then you will need 05-10 struts as the length is different than the 11+.
Call A/M back and ask to speak to the phone rep supervisor if you don't get a satisfactory answer.
But, if you use the GT500 mounts then you will need 05-10 struts as the length is different than the 11+.
Call A/M back and ask to speak to the phone rep supervisor if you don't get a satisfactory answer.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
In case it'll help anyone else on this topic:
If you've just bought the springs and *nothing else*... you're fine. Put 'em on. The car will just lower and that'll be that...
...mostly. You do NOT have to do anything else, but it's *adviseable* that you do. For a few reasons, but it can wait, depending on the lowering amount.
You might can 'get away' with just adjusting the toe in the front, and the car otherwise won't need anything else for drivability, as it's a 1.5" drop, so you might get pretty lucky and that'll be it.
But you *may* find out you need an adjustable panhard bar to reset the rear axle, as lowering the car in the back will push the axle out to the driver's side. It's a looks as well as a thrust angle issue, that. And you *may* find out that your camber is out of whack and will need camber bolts or camber plates. Read on...
Anything lower than 1.5" (and I suspect anything over 1", really), and you're for sure talking having to change camber, because the suspension will tilt the wheels inward at the top (or outward at the bottom, whatever) and that'll cause a lot of wear on the inside of the tire, and cause premature tire retirement.
rotation will help forestall it a little, but wont cure it, and at the very least, camber bolts are something to look into... but they only go so far. A caster/camber plate is a better solution for majorly lowered cars for the front suspension.
In the back, the above mentioned adjustable panhard bar now becomes necessary, as well as at the very least either adjustable lower control arms, or control arm relocators, as the axle's pinion angle is going to be messed up for 'cruise' configuration, and you don't wanna get the yoke out of whack. And even at the 1.5, you might wanna be sure it's ok.
Unless you really need an excuse to rebuild the axle...
As far as the strut mounts, that's to deal with the Ford Racing dampers (nee struts) that they're recommending. These are '05-'10 style struts, and the shaft at the top is *seriously* different than in '11-14s. So if you get those dampers, you need those mounts. If you got dampers that are for '11-14, then you don't need those mounts. As FR doesn't make those dampers for your model year, the mounts have to come with 'em. They are totally all bolt in, though, so it's a small expenditure if you're upgrading your dampers and can't get 11-14 ones to do the job.
Now, you *can* use the stock dampers. BUT... they're set to ride at the old height. Even in a 1" drop, my stock dampers are tryin' their best to stay at that height, and so the ride suffers a little bit. Not so much in cruise mode, but going over a speed bump? The example I can give is that the car wants to float up, and crash down. It sorta still works, but the car, if I'm not being careful, will indeed smack the bump if I come off of it too harshly.
It just doesn't work quite right. It's still okish, but I'm going to be getting Koni STR.Ts soon enough, and that should hopefully solve the weird floaty/crashy feel of the car's shocks. I also need to deal with the front sway bar, the bushings in it are apparently not good, and I'm debating on getting new links and the two polyurethane bushings for the stock, or getting an upgrade from Steeda or something.
Hope that helps ya, but I'm hoping for you that you don't need the camber and axle to be readjusted, 'cause unless you got those with the springs... car's gonna drive funny and/or start wearin' out the insides of the front tires.
Good dang luck to ya!
If you've just bought the springs and *nothing else*... you're fine. Put 'em on. The car will just lower and that'll be that...
...mostly. You do NOT have to do anything else, but it's *adviseable* that you do. For a few reasons, but it can wait, depending on the lowering amount.
You might can 'get away' with just adjusting the toe in the front, and the car otherwise won't need anything else for drivability, as it's a 1.5" drop, so you might get pretty lucky and that'll be it.
But you *may* find out you need an adjustable panhard bar to reset the rear axle, as lowering the car in the back will push the axle out to the driver's side. It's a looks as well as a thrust angle issue, that. And you *may* find out that your camber is out of whack and will need camber bolts or camber plates. Read on...
Anything lower than 1.5" (and I suspect anything over 1", really), and you're for sure talking having to change camber, because the suspension will tilt the wheels inward at the top (or outward at the bottom, whatever) and that'll cause a lot of wear on the inside of the tire, and cause premature tire retirement.
rotation will help forestall it a little, but wont cure it, and at the very least, camber bolts are something to look into... but they only go so far. A caster/camber plate is a better solution for majorly lowered cars for the front suspension.In the back, the above mentioned adjustable panhard bar now becomes necessary, as well as at the very least either adjustable lower control arms, or control arm relocators, as the axle's pinion angle is going to be messed up for 'cruise' configuration, and you don't wanna get the yoke out of whack. And even at the 1.5, you might wanna be sure it's ok.
Unless you really need an excuse to rebuild the axle...
As far as the strut mounts, that's to deal with the Ford Racing dampers (nee struts) that they're recommending. These are '05-'10 style struts, and the shaft at the top is *seriously* different than in '11-14s. So if you get those dampers, you need those mounts. If you got dampers that are for '11-14, then you don't need those mounts. As FR doesn't make those dampers for your model year, the mounts have to come with 'em. They are totally all bolt in, though, so it's a small expenditure if you're upgrading your dampers and can't get 11-14 ones to do the job.
Now, you *can* use the stock dampers. BUT... they're set to ride at the old height. Even in a 1" drop, my stock dampers are tryin' their best to stay at that height, and so the ride suffers a little bit. Not so much in cruise mode, but going over a speed bump? The example I can give is that the car wants to float up, and crash down. It sorta still works, but the car, if I'm not being careful, will indeed smack the bump if I come off of it too harshly.
It just doesn't work quite right. It's still okish, but I'm going to be getting Koni STR.Ts soon enough, and that should hopefully solve the weird floaty/crashy feel of the car's shocks. I also need to deal with the front sway bar, the bushings in it are apparently not good, and I'm debating on getting new links and the two polyurethane bushings for the stock, or getting an upgrade from Steeda or something.
Hope that helps ya, but I'm hoping for you that you don't need the camber and axle to be readjusted, 'cause unless you got those with the springs... car's gonna drive funny and/or start wearin' out the insides of the front tires.
Good dang luck to ya!
Last edited by houtex; Jul 22, 2014 at 09:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
Thank you for the great information and taking the time to explain. I will return the strut mounts and get a panhard bar. I will see if they can install them this week and order the panhard bar and bring it back for an alignment after putting a few miles on it.
Former Vendor
Joined: April 30, 2014
Posts: 790
Likes: 20
From: Malvern, PA
I have a 2012 V6. I have ordered the SR Performance Lowering Springs and didn't see that the website AM that they work when used with the sed in combination with
Ford Racing M-18183-C upper strut mounts $108.99
M-18000-A dampers $579.97
I then read all of the comments and most of them say that they are using all stock on the 2012 models. I called American Muscle and the person on the phone just looked up the part online and just said it might work. He wasn't any help at all.
I am confused as heck now.
On another note I ordered the kit and only go half of it. The strut bar got cancelled and never shipped. They American Muscle never contacted me. So now I am really frustrated.
Ford Racing M-18183-C upper strut mounts $108.99
M-18000-A dampers $579.97
I then read all of the comments and most of them say that they are using all stock on the 2012 models. I called American Muscle and the person on the phone just looked up the part online and just said it might work. He wasn't any help at all.
I am confused as heck now.
On another note I ordered the kit and only go half of it. The strut bar got cancelled and never shipped. They American Muscle never contacted me. So now I am really frustrated.
Sorry to hear about the trouble here! It's looking like houtex beat me to this! Can you shoot me a PM with your order number? I'm more than happy to cover the shipping back to AM on this for you because of the inconvenience!
Alex
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
I ordered the panhard bar and set up an appointment for next week to have everything installed. I wish I was mechanically inclined to do it myself but I really am not. I do know how to take pictures and hang them on the all though.
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: April 14, 2013
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 111
From: CT
Agree with the detailed post above in regards to ONLY springs require no other upgrades.
That said, I would highly recommend doing shocks/struts at the same time as it makes installation a 1 time deal and the improved damping will be helpful
But I also run the SR springs and have been pushing them hard at track days since this past May. They have been excellent in combination with Koni STR.T dampers.
That said, I would highly recommend doing shocks/struts at the same time as it makes installation a 1 time deal and the improved damping will be helpful
But I also run the SR springs and have been pushing them hard at track days since this past May. They have been excellent in combination with Koni STR.T dampers.
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
Agree with the detailed post above in regards to ONLY springs require no other upgrades.
That said, I would highly recommend doing shocks/struts at the same time as it makes installation a 1 time deal and the improved damping will be helpful
But I also run the SR springs and have been pushing them hard at track days since this past May. They have been excellent in combination with Koni STR.T dampers.
That said, I would highly recommend doing shocks/struts at the same time as it makes installation a 1 time deal and the improved damping will be helpful
But I also run the SR springs and have been pushing them hard at track days since this past May. They have been excellent in combination with Koni STR.T dampers.