Spend My Money
Spend My Money
As I chip away at my To-Do list on my 2012 5.0 GT, I arrive at the suspension. I'm planning on doing it once, the right way, the first time.
I just need a little guidance as I've never done suspension mods on a car before and there are only 600 different companies to choose from. So I turn to you all with a little bit more experince than I in this area. This is a weekend warrior and I want the power to be easily transferred to the ground with little or no, if possible, wheel hop. Body roll, squat and nose dive should be mitigated as much as possible. Planned on Lowering 1" in front 1.5" in the rear to close that ugly rear gap and have it sit as perfectly level as I can.
Here's what I need, if there's a question mark beside it, I havent decided on a brand and/or need help and that's where yall come in. Also, if you know of a better brand for less than BMR feel free to throw those out there as well:
Koni Yellow (non adjustable) Dampers
Springs(??)
BMR Upper CA (adjustable or no? do I need/should to do the front control arms too?)
BMR LCA (adjustable? boxed? tubular? what kind of bushings?)
BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod
upper Strut mounts (?)
Do I need caster camber bolts or plates?
I feel like I'm missing a few things maybe? I dont know.
Anyways, thanks for your future help!
I just need a little guidance as I've never done suspension mods on a car before and there are only 600 different companies to choose from. So I turn to you all with a little bit more experince than I in this area. This is a weekend warrior and I want the power to be easily transferred to the ground with little or no, if possible, wheel hop. Body roll, squat and nose dive should be mitigated as much as possible. Planned on Lowering 1" in front 1.5" in the rear to close that ugly rear gap and have it sit as perfectly level as I can.
Here's what I need, if there's a question mark beside it, I havent decided on a brand and/or need help and that's where yall come in. Also, if you know of a better brand for less than BMR feel free to throw those out there as well:
Koni Yellow (non adjustable) Dampers
Springs(??)
BMR Upper CA (adjustable or no? do I need/should to do the front control arms too?)
BMR LCA (adjustable? boxed? tubular? what kind of bushings?)
BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod
upper Strut mounts (?)
Do I need caster camber bolts or plates?
I feel like I'm missing a few things maybe? I dont know.
Anyways, thanks for your future help!
How can I turn down a chance to spend someone else's money!
Seriously though, your list indicates your on the right track. But if you want to do it right the first time I wouldn't buy parts from all different manufactures. Your better off buying parts that have been designed together as a package. Not only will they work better together they will install easier and be less PIA in general.
Koni is a great choice for shocks...Yellows, I believe, are all at least single adjustable BTW. If you don't want to mess with that get the STR.T still a good street shock but simpler. Yellows are much better imo though.
My choice would be the coil over set up from Cortex Racing. They definitely know their stuff when it comes to mustangs and will work with you on getting exactly the shock/spring combo that will do what you need it to. It's a little more money but you get what you pay for in support and race proven engineering that has some really nice options built in you wont find elsewhere for the same price.
http://www.cortexracing.com/shop/xtr...system-street/
FYI, getting a coil over set up will usually get you camber adjustment through the top hat and you wont need camber bolts, which are a less desirable option anyway.
For the rest of your list talk to Kenny Brown. They specialize in Mustangs and have arguably one of the sweetest suspension packages on the market. Not to mention really awesome support and race proven engineering.
http://store.kennybrown.com/product/...-2012-mustangs
I would recommend the Front Sway bar replacement that goes with that kit. Once that AGS 4.0 set up is on the car you wont believe the transformation. Kenny brown has started selling Coil over set ups too. But they are not cheap...but like most things you get what you pay for.
Happy motoring.
Seriously though, your list indicates your on the right track. But if you want to do it right the first time I wouldn't buy parts from all different manufactures. Your better off buying parts that have been designed together as a package. Not only will they work better together they will install easier and be less PIA in general.
Koni is a great choice for shocks...Yellows, I believe, are all at least single adjustable BTW. If you don't want to mess with that get the STR.T still a good street shock but simpler. Yellows are much better imo though.
My choice would be the coil over set up from Cortex Racing. They definitely know their stuff when it comes to mustangs and will work with you on getting exactly the shock/spring combo that will do what you need it to. It's a little more money but you get what you pay for in support and race proven engineering that has some really nice options built in you wont find elsewhere for the same price.
http://www.cortexracing.com/shop/xtr...system-street/
FYI, getting a coil over set up will usually get you camber adjustment through the top hat and you wont need camber bolts, which are a less desirable option anyway.
For the rest of your list talk to Kenny Brown. They specialize in Mustangs and have arguably one of the sweetest suspension packages on the market. Not to mention really awesome support and race proven engineering.
http://store.kennybrown.com/product/...-2012-mustangs
I would recommend the Front Sway bar replacement that goes with that kit. Once that AGS 4.0 set up is on the car you wont believe the transformation. Kenny brown has started selling Coil over set ups too. But they are not cheap...but like most things you get what you pay for.
Happy motoring.
Kenny Brown has starter Eibach coil over kits for us non-rich guys who still want great suspension. I plan on getting the full deal from them when I'm done saving for car parts. $1800 vs $8000 is a no brainer if you ask me. The spring rates are tuned to system specs so that they work as well as possible with the rest of the AGS 4.0. They sell H&R coil overs too.
http://store.kennybrown.com/product/...-302-and-gt500
http://store.kennybrown.com/product/...-302-and-gt500
Last edited by Stevedotmil; May 29, 2013 at 07:31 AM.
Kenny Brown has starter Eibach coil over kits for us non-rich guys who still want great suspension. I plan on getting the full deal from them when I'm done saving for car parts. $1800 vs $8000 is a no brainer if you ask me. The spring rates are tuned to system specs so that they work as well as possible with the rest of the AGS 4.0. They sell H&R coil overs too.
http://store.kennybrown.com/product/...-302-and-gt500
http://store.kennybrown.com/product/...-302-and-gt500
I would have to agree with Jay, if I am paying 1800 on up it better be fully adjustable, now thinking about it the KB stuff my not be adjustable because it is set for a specific spec in SCCA/NASA, still not the best unless you are building a car for that spec.
I'd go
- Eibach Pro Plus kit from AmericanMuscle (shocks, springs, sway bars)
- Adjustable rear LCA
- LCA relocation brackets
- Panhard bar and panhard bar brace (or if you want to spend a lot more, a Fays2 Watts link is a good choice)
- Adjustable rear UCA (with bracket)
- Bumpsteer kit
- Steeda front LCA
- FRPP front lower control arm brace
- Caster/camber plates
- Rear shock tower brace
- Front strut tower brace
- Swarr bar
- Decent tires (go square instead of staggered - you get better handling)
- Upgraded brakes (slotted/dimpled rotors and Hawk HPS pads)
- Upgraded brake lines
- ATE Super Blue brake fluid
- Eibach Pro Plus kit from AmericanMuscle (shocks, springs, sway bars)
- Adjustable rear LCA
- LCA relocation brackets
- Panhard bar and panhard bar brace (or if you want to spend a lot more, a Fays2 Watts link is a good choice)
- Adjustable rear UCA (with bracket)
- Bumpsteer kit
- Steeda front LCA
- FRPP front lower control arm brace
- Caster/camber plates
- Rear shock tower brace
- Front strut tower brace
- Swarr bar
- Decent tires (go square instead of staggered - you get better handling)
- Upgraded brakes (slotted/dimpled rotors and Hawk HPS pads)
- Upgraded brake lines
- ATE Super Blue brake fluid
Last edited by jsimmons; May 30, 2013 at 11:14 AM.
Another member on here has said it has happened, 908SSP, also I would assume the bushings are stiffer on the aftermarket A arms. Whiteline has a bushing kit that they say cannot be used on the 2011+ because the electric steering rack freaks out.
I'd go
- Eibach Pro Plus kit from AmericanMuscle (shocks, springs, sway bars)
- Adjustable rear LCA
- LCA relocation brackets
- Panhard bar and panhard bar brace (or if you want to spend a lot more, a Fays2 Watts link is a good choice)
- Adjustable rear UCA (with bracket)
- Bumpsteer kit
- Steeda front LCA
- FRPP front lower control arm brace
- Caster/camber plates
- Rear shock tower brace
- Front strut tower brace
- Swarr bar
- Decent tires (go square instead of staggered - you get better handling)
- Upgraded brakes (slotted/dimpled rotors and Hawk HPS pads)
- Upgraded brake lines
- ATE Super Blue brake fluid
- Eibach Pro Plus kit from AmericanMuscle (shocks, springs, sway bars)
- Adjustable rear LCA
- LCA relocation brackets
- Panhard bar and panhard bar brace (or if you want to spend a lot more, a Fays2 Watts link is a good choice)
- Adjustable rear UCA (with bracket)
- Bumpsteer kit
- Steeda front LCA
- FRPP front lower control arm brace
- Caster/camber plates
- Rear shock tower brace
- Front strut tower brace
- Swarr bar
- Decent tires (go square instead of staggered - you get better handling)
- Upgraded brakes (slotted/dimpled rotors and Hawk HPS pads)
- Upgraded brake lines
- ATE Super Blue brake fluid
I question a lot of where you've read or experienced that helped you come up with this list of parts and recommendations.
First is the swarr bar, which is designed primarily for 1/4 mile applications and is most popular for older models. Unless we are looking running drag radials or slicks this is an option that is a waste of money and increases weight in the rear.
Bumpsteer kit, can be useful for applications where individuals drop your car beyond the capabilities of stock which would require you to essentially run a 3 inch drop which will most likely end up with your wheel well sitting on your tire.
Front LCA's, aftermarket LCA's are prone to break.... frequently. There are many stories of this occurring... just google it.
You're stating that there is a need for Relocation brackets for an individual running the eibach pro kit? This is a waste of money, I've installed my fair share of these springs, this results in the LCA"s becoming close to parallel to the ground. Again, another waste.
Sway bars, probably the last thing to upgrade on our suspension. If a person is running stock tires or simply put just running on the street your typical driver is not going to outperform these stock sway bars. A good set of dampers will help eliminate body roll for DD/ street drivers.
Eibach Pro system plus... Eibach sways are decent at best and although they are better than OEM you are spending too much on a set of dampers that do not perform equal to it's counterparts like Koni or even ST. One of the only companies that offer a damper that doesn't really pair well with their own springs.
Rear shock tower brace..... you will find no benefit from this.
Slotted dimple rotors....... if you plan on tracking your car I would say 2 piece rotors as they dissipate heat quicker however, the need to buy slotted rotors just to have slotted rotors nowadays are not necessary. Previous brake pads exuded gases under heavy duress but that is not the case anymore with new technology and the material used in brake pads. If you run Brembo brakes.... get an extra set of rotors if you plan on tracking your car.
Caster camber plates, unless someone plans on running negative camber for the case of wanting to or they plan on running their car at the track there is no need for them.... or camber bolts. Any reputable alignment shop can get a car within spec when running the pro kit. This is just a fact, I always recommend CC plates as I enjoy the freedom of adjustment.
Lastly you stated... "decent tires". Tires and dampers (potentially subjective statement) are the two most important elements to a suspension. Tires are typically one of the parts customer's typically skimp out on.
I hope this covers some misconceptions regarding suspension. Key take aways: Don't overspend on suspension parts that a person will not benefit from. A arms, PHB brace, A arm brace, K members, etc a typical DD driver or spirited driver won't notice. Dampers and tires are the two key elements, buy mods that support these parts.... if you want. Lowering springs are no good performance wise without a good set of dampers to handle them.
This is just my two cents and can be taken subjectively as a person's view on comfort/ performance can be different from the next.
Last edited by Jay@Hypermotive; May 30, 2013 at 06:06 PM.
If I was going to buy coil overs from KB I would get the JRZ's. Which are on the spendy side. However KB put a lot of Dev time into that set up with JRZ engineers and JRZ is a top choice in the shock market these days.
I'm not a big fan of ground control as they are sorta on the lower end of quality/performance compared to companies like Penske, Ohlins...even Koni. I view them sorta like the "Hyundai" of the shock world with that warranty. But now, like Hyundai, I hear they are stepping up their game. Might not be a bad choice if your on a tight budget.
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