How easy is it? Can some one go through the steps?

 

Plenty of threads on this. Late model restoration has a good blog on their site. Extremely easy.

 

As everyone has already stated, it is real easy. I just replaced my springs last night with FRPP P springs. It took me about 1.5 hours total to swap everything, and the rears were about 20 minutes of that time frame. There is a decent installation How-To on americanmuscle.com as well.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-r...9-install.html

 

Hey I've been thinking of getting those springs. How do you like them? Does the car ride the same, any extra noise etc? TIA

 

If you've not already replaced, this free online fully browsable shop manual is full of good info. ie, 'Remove the rear brake hose bracket'. Have seen one vendor write up w/pics where they don't...you can see they'd put a lot of stress on the brake line...has the potential for things to end up badly in the future.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=499

 

Were do you jack up the car? Also what are they talking about when they say mark the shock absorber relative to the protective sleeve?

 

Thanks. I read in another article not to jack up at the differential because of damage can happen.

 

Look up Taco Bill's hotlinks in the 05-09 GT Mods section. Step-by-step walkthrough with photos.

 

Both are somewhat discussed in the link to the shop manual I posted although the reasoning for the shock position marking may not be obvious. Also, both the owners manual and the shop manual specifically state not to jack up the car by the differential.

Some speculate this is purely a liability issue (perhaps similar to the warning lables on the pop machines not to rock them). Others believe, like the manual states, you'll damage the vehicle. Most likely the differential rear cover and it's seal. My Service Mgr couldn't give me an answer other than what's stated in the manuals.

The shock is marked assuming you'll be replacing with the same OE spring, so that you can, with the car already on stands, jack the axle up and then torque the lower shock mount bolts with the rear positioned at 'curb height'. This is done so that the bushings on the shocks are torqued in their position of travel where they'll normally be riding. Manual uses better wording than I just did.

For this job I jack the rear at each axle. So as not to twist everything and lift the entire car by one side, I use my floor jack on one side and my vehicles sissor jack on the other, simultaneously. I placed my stands at the rocker panel jacking points.

It's at the point where you then use your floor jack to support the axle in a low enough position where you're able to remove the spring that, if you've not already disconnected the brake line bracket that you'll be stretching the snot out of the brakeline, against it's metal fitting.

To torque those lower bolts @ curb height, (which the manual tells you is so that the bushings aren't torqued in a position other than where they're normally riding at, which would cause premature wear issues), I backed the car up on just enough 2x12s to allow me to get under there with my torque wrench.