Suspension, Brakes, and Tire Tech Place to discuss suspension mods for all models

Panhard bar VS lower control arms

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 4, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #1  
FloridaSixer's Avatar
Thread Starter
GT Member
 
Joined: March 2, 2013
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Bradenton, Fl
Panhard bar VS lower control arms

Hey guys, still learning a lot about my car but I wanted to know the difference between a panhard bar and lower control arms. They seem to do the same thing so which one do I choose?
Reply
Old Mar 4, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #2  
Planeswalker's Avatar
Cobra Member
 
Joined: September 9, 2009
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 4
From: OKC, OK
To put it simply a Panhard bar runs sideways and connects the axle to the chassis. This helps prevent the axle from moving horizontally while still allowing full verticle motion.

Lower control arms hold alot of the forces while the car is accelerating and stopping. OEM ones allow excessive deflection, mostly due to the bad rubber bushings, which lead to poor traction due to axle movement.

What exactly are you wanting to do, or prevent?
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 01:47 AM
  #3  
Ibnzmonkey's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: March 4, 2013
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Austin
The two components are not the same. They work in two different planes of movement.

The PHB prevents the axle from having lateral movement, as in side to side. This also provides the benefit of being able to locate the axle where ever you want it (adjustable PHB)

LCAs position the axle front to back and provide some degree of caster adjustment if equipped to do so.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 12:10 PM
  #4  
FloridaSixer's Avatar
Thread Starter
GT Member
 
Joined: March 2, 2013
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Bradenton, Fl
Originally Posted by Planeswalker
To put it simply a Panhard bar runs sideways and connects the axle to the chassis. This helps prevent the axle from moving horizontally while still allowing full verticle motion.

Lower control arms hold alot of the forces while the car is accelerating and stopping. OEM ones allow excessive deflection, mostly due to the bad rubber bushings, which lead to poor traction due to axle movement.

What exactly are you wanting to do, or prevent?
Well I wanted to lower the car 1.25" on all four wheels and tighten up the suspension. So I didn't know which of the two I should get for these two purposes
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 12:33 PM
  #5  
Brandon302's Avatar
Shelby GT350 Member
 
Joined: May 6, 2012
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 0
From: Crofton MD
Originally Posted by FloridaSixer
Well I wanted to lower the car 1.25" on all four wheels and tighten up the suspension. So I didn't know which of the two I should get for these two purposes
Neither will lower your car, I believe for that amount of lowering it would be recommended to get an adjustable PHB so that you can recenter the car. Might as well also get a nice set of LCA's, I have yet to put mine on, however I would suggest Whiteline based on others impressions and because they look really stout.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 01:02 PM
  #6  
ConeBoss's Avatar
Bullitt Member
 
Joined: October 6, 2011
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by FloridaSixer
Well I wanted to lower the car 1.25" on all four wheels and tighten up the suspension. So I didn't know which of the two I should get for these two purposes
If your goal is to account for and optimize suspension after you lower the car. A adjustable pan hard and LCA's while they certainly will help don't by themselves correct for the change in suspension geometry.

If you really want a tight handling stang. I would recommend the following...

Rear suspension: Get traction brackets to move the rear connection point for the LCA down. Its a cheap part. $80-100. Replace the bushings on LCA's, also v.cheap. You could buy after market ones if you really want. But I can tell you that my stock LCA's with upgraded bushings seem to work as well as the Boss 302S LCA's I used to have. Skip the panhard and buy a watts link set up. Panhards still allow a small amount of deflection. A Watts link costs a bit more but is worth it and lets you adjust the rear roll center on the car to be just right.

Front Suspenstion: At least get a beefer sway bar and if you can replace the stock LCA bushings and get extended ball joints...or replace the LCA's completely if you can afford it.

Last, get an alignment!!! Ask for as much negative camber as they can dial into the front...you could install a camber kit to help here..also cheap.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 03:23 PM
  #7  
FloridaSixer's Avatar
Thread Starter
GT Member
 
Joined: March 2, 2013
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Bradenton, Fl
Originally Posted by ConeBoss

If your goal is to account for and optimize suspension after you lower the car. A adjustable pan hard and LCA's while they certainly will help don't by themselves correct for the change in suspension geometry.

If you really want a tight handling stang. I would recommend the following...

Rear suspension: Get traction brackets to move the rear connection point for the LCA down. Its a cheap part. $80-100. Replace the bushings on LCA's, also v.cheap. You could buy after market ones if you really want. But I can tell you that my stock LCA's with upgraded bushings seem to work as well as the Boss 302S LCA's I used to have. Skip the panhard and buy a watts link set up. Panhards still allow a small amount of deflection. A Watts link costs a bit more but is worth it and lets you adjust the rear roll center on the car to be just right.

Front Suspenstion: At least get a beefer sway bar and if you can replace the stock LCA bushings and get extended ball joints...or replace the LCA's completely if you can afford it.

Last, get an alignment!!! Ask for as much negative camber as they can dial into the front...you could install a camber kit to help here..also cheap.
I forgot to add the part about lowering springs haha. So basically since I'm on a budget just get either LCA or a new adjustable PHB or both and an alignment right? It Will help a lot with tightening up the suspension?
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #8  
Jay@Hypermotive's Avatar
Former Vendor
 
Joined: October 8, 2012
Posts: 759
Likes: 1
If you get lowering springs, depending on how low you go you MAY not need a PHB. With the questions you've asked I would highly suggest just reading up a little more on what specifically each component does on these Mustang. Don't forget that lowering your car will degrade OEM components a little faster. Time depends on your driving style and road conditions.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #9  
FloridaSixer's Avatar
Thread Starter
GT Member
 
Joined: March 2, 2013
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Bradenton, Fl
Originally Posted by Jay@Hypermotive
If you get lowering springs, depending on how low you go you MAY not need a PHB. With the questions you've asked I would highly suggest just reading up a little more on what specifically each component does on these Mustang. Don't forget that lowering your car will degrade OEM components a little faster. Time depends on your driving style and road conditions.
I'm gonna lower it 1.25" on all four so would I need a PHB? And I heard if its not a low drop then my OEM components won't degrade as fast. And from my reading it says I need an adjustable PHB or LCAs
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Evil_Capri
2015 - 2023 MUSTANG
2
Sep 25, 2015 12:56 PM
GrabberBlue310
2012-2013 BOSS 302
6
Sep 17, 2015 08:21 AM
robjh22
Suspension, Brakes, and Tire Tech
4
Sep 8, 2015 12:31 PM




All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:26 PM.